Any prints from the Beta team?

[erikk]

Its actually a hardware bug that might be solvable with software. When the audio is "laser off", its at a different location than "laser on". Its a problem with the circuit, but we hope to get the software to get a calibrated offset whenever the laser is off. When the laser turns on at the same point on every layer, there is a small section that never gets cured properly because the laser wasn't there in time.

Until then I've used a bandaid fix that doesn't get rid of the twitch when the laser comes on, but randomizes the starting point of each layer, so it doesn't happen at the same point on every layer.

The program I made to randomize the gcode was my first useful python program and first time looking inside gcode files
It still needs hand editing to set the speed to start at (I probably should have left the first layer alone), and there might be other things.
gcode_scrambler.zip

[colehard]

I would be glad to post the cylinder .wav and .cue files if that is what you are looking for.

While printing, it does look like the laser covers those empty spots, but even my eye (with protective eyewear ish) can tell it is not as intense over that spot. All my prints have had a gap on the back side (cubes too). It looks to me more like where the laser is ending its sweep rather than starting - but that is not a scientific observation....

Sorry I did not time the print. But I am running about 305 drips per mm with the reservoir I have. And I had quite a fast drip going. 3-4 per second maybe. There were probably only single drips between sublayers.

My biggest issue is that the XY scale is only 30% of the Z scale. I am trying to get the latest alpha software up an running but won't get any time until the weekend.

[colehard]

@erikk - I like it - will try it out on my cylinder at the weekend and let you know how it goes.

Or, we just keep the laser on, but scan it fast out of area between sublayers.

[Slatye]

Colehard - I'd be interested in getting a copy of the files, if you could post them here. Probably won't have time to do anything with them, but I might get around to it.

[colehard]

I tried the new Peachy Tools software that has been rewritten with some enhancements. Not sure if they meant to fix the axing but that doesn't seem as bad. However, now the software goes straight from GCode to printer control. No in between CUE/WAV files. I don't think my computer is quite up to doing this in real-time (without compiled code) so i have a couple of other issues.

But I was able to get a print out. My resin is getting a bit messed up so that may explain some of the holes. I am only running with a couple of mm of resin on the salt solution. I still have problems with drip and vertical calibration - The 'cube' in this picture is placed next to the cylinder from last weekend. My XY scaling is much better.

2014-05-26 07.44.38.jpg2014-05-26 07.44.38.jpg

I really rushed this out to have something this weekend so pretty good all things considered. I need to spend some more time on my Z calibration and really need to spend time on setting up my saline flow - I am wading through salt crystals on my work bench because of spillage. I am so desperate to play with the printing that I took shortcuts on mounting/saline flow that are becoming a pain now. Oh, and BTW, you do not want to get resin on your lips so some up with a good siphon solution (no pun intended) to get the salt water from the build tank back to the holding tank. It burns.

[colehard]

OK, really pleased with this one. Tardis - unfortunately the pictures don't show the detail - the windows and windows with slats in them on the top two rows came out perfectly. The top fill is really nice. I had two drip problems at 2mm and near the end hence the offset base and top where i knocked my print reservoir. My Z axis is about 150% out of wack. I will try once more with modified drips/mm and enough water in the top tank.

Also, note that even though the base got offset by a few mm, causing a gaping whole above the space, that side did start printing again. This gives an idea of the overhang capability which looks pretty good.

It is much more impressive in real life.
2014-05-26 15.04.06.jpg2014-05-26 15.05.28.jpg2014-05-26 15.05.01.jpg2014-05-26 15.04.48.jpg2014-05-26 15.04.43.jpg

[colehard]

So, slower drips are smaller - I think someone else made that finding. Anyway - got a full tardis out with no holes. Just a bit short in the Z. The detail is really good. Looks like I also have to recenter my beam as the print has a bit of a lean. The detail on every side of this is perfect. Wish the picture could be better - someone suggested painting, maybe I will try that sometime.

2014-05-26 19.31.23.jpg

[Aztecphoenix]

So, slower drips are smaller - I think someone else made that finding. Anyway - got a full tardis out with no holes. Just a bit short in the Z. The detail is really good. Looks like I also have to recenter my beam as the print has a bit of a lean. The detail on every side of this is perfect. Wish the picture could be better - someone suggested painting, maybe I will try that sometime.

2014-05-26 19.31.23.jpg

how ow is the Z axis off? I thought the drip counter once calibrated to the size of the build tank was supposed to ensure accurate Z height, it shouldn't matter if you have a fast or slow drip, am I missing something?

[ijmok]

Amazing Colehard,

Especially when you see the three post consecutively

Its often hard to remember how small these prints are until you refocus on the paper towel in the background,
I saw a post on the kickstarter page yesterday asking about progress and July shipping, which I'm down for, although not expecting (never was) to be honest, but with your insider knowledge (official forum) what's the biggest issue holding Peachy up at present?
Either way awesome work and thank you for your work,

Rob

[Feign]

I sure wouldn't mind seeing some of these with a little bit of paint on them. The first Tardis I kinda had to look at it a while before figuring out what was exterior detail and what was interior texture.

Has anyone thought to try Rylan's tip of rice and resin as filler yet? I feel most of these would look a lot better filled.