Best Adhesion?

[Todd-67]

PLA is not tougher than ABS especially when building parts that snap together which is very common in the consumer retail world. ABS post processes better. ABS is more easily machined. PLA will lose mechanical properties in moist environments. Their is more. IF you know how to print with ABS it is very versatile, durable material. That is why most consumer retail goods are molded with it.

[adamfilip]

PETG is awesome. very strong. No Smell. Minimal warp (enslosure preferred), sticks well to PEI, Food Safe, No toxic air particles like ABS, Issues with it are excessive oozing, and its hard to clean, Nozzle Buildup.

[Talon 3D]

Now that I have PrintBite dialed in it has changed the way I print for the better.
Print, when it cools it lifts right off. That bottoms are smooth, no more messing with glue and tape. It has allowed me to concentrate on actually printing more.

you're still tying yourself down to adhesives and glues and tape and pissing about with different bed types.

I don't need any of that crap :-)
I print and either wait for the ebd to cool or hit the part with a small hammer. then I print again and again and again.
never needing to peel, scrape, paint, spray or use tape or glue of any kind.
I can't see any wear on the bed - don't envisage ever having to change it.
One fee fora hassle free print experience for life. Why wouldn't you :-)

[Talon 3D]

I'm really liking PeTG too.
Its tough stuff that is for sure.
I made a set of knobs for my tools and they are better than the original set I replaced.

PETG is awesome. very strong. No Smell. Minimal warp (enslosure preferred), sticks well to PEI, Food Safe, No toxic air particles like ABS, Issues with it are excessive oozing, and its hard to clean, Nozzle Buildup.

[curious aardvark]

the worst thing I printed with abs was a snapfit handle for a g-tech electric carpet sweeper. 9 times out of ten the abs handle would break when pushed into the socket. The pla ones with a slightly tighter tolearance do not snap.
I an only go by what I've made and used personally - 3d printing and injection moulding are two different animals. Not really comparable.

And I find 3d printed abs to be bloody awful for anything practical. As fas as moisture and pla goes - what century are you living in ?
Current formulations have no problem with water. I've got pla birdfeeders that have been outside for 2 years in all weather and all year round. They still look as good as the day they were made.

Petg is more flexible than pla - but probably either similiar stiffness to abs or a little stiffer.

[Todd-67]

Sounds like your snap was poorly designed and or your settings were less than optimal. If you don't have the knowledge to do it correctly i understand your frustration but their are a lot of people that do thus its popularity.

As far as what century i live in i would say the one that lives in reality. Just because you post a lot doesn't mean your right. I read your post trying to help a guy make a gear. You don't even understand basic involute/gear construction.

I have been designing products and rapid prototyping for over 25 years for a lot of big companies using SLA, SLS FDM in plastics and metals. Printing ABS is easy if you know what you're doing. Other materials have their place and i fully understand PLA in the hobby sector.

[wirlybird]

First full run on my ABS clamp part using glue stick on the glass bed, used hairspray before with some lifting and curling. The part stuck like crazy and released when it cooled. Very pleased with the results. Easy, cheap and no fuss.
Hair spray has worked well overall since I just spray the whole glass and with PLA I can do a number of print runs before cleaning the glass and re applying. Will do another ABS test today on a couple larger woodworking gauges which will fill almost the whole build plate.

PEI sheets come today also so that will be another test to see how it goes but so far glue stick has been promising.

[wirlybird]

Very interesting.
So, in regards to ABS and ASA, do you think there is a point at which chamber temp is to high while printing for warping or curling? I am running at 100 on the bed and 230 on extrusion.
After some time the chamber on my FFCP stabilizes around 108c while printing ABS and that may have been when I ran the bed at 110c.

I am a chemical engineer by profession, so not that afraid of polymer properties...

Just a quick post:

Some time ago I stumbled on this post: https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!...ot/4evJNxIPY2E

I have looked up typical glass transition temperatures and linear expansion coefficients and set up a graph plotting chamber temps versus estimated stress for a number of polymers. Assuming an ambient of 30 C for PLA, that means that one has no problems with a stress of around 100. The PETG almost superimposes the PLA which explains the 'low-warp'. Extrapolated to ABS, it means that 65 C would bring it to the same stress level as PLA, thus virtually warp-free. I still need to verify that assumption.

Also, polycarbonate (PC) requires a lot of adhesion to the build plate to overcome the stresses and not warp. So far I am having good success with PEI and parts with dimensions up to 100-120mm.


Attachment 9760

[Alibert]

With an enclosed replicator-1 clone (Qidi tech) I measured a plateau value of around 40-45 C inside the printer when printing at 100 C bed and 230 C nozzle. Reaching 108C in the FFCP seems like a very high value. How did you measure that? Was the air circulating (are you sure you were not measuring in a hot spot)?

In order to get good structure and detail, you should keep the ambient below 80C I think. Otherwise the stuff will remain rubbery and the nozzle will drag it up when laying down new plastic as it is quite viscous when leaving the nozzle?

The ceramic heater+fan+PID controller works very well as the fan moves the air around and gives a pretty equal temperature everywhere inside the printer.

[justanothermaker]

Thank you all for the suggestions. I tried just the glass bed and a little tiny bit of glue and that worked perfectly. For PLA i used the painters tape. Thanks again ya'll