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  1. #11
    New (final) shell posted on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:302209 - it now has a cover

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by OVersliders View Post
    Wow! I am amazed of the quality of your prints.
    I just got mine last week and I cannot get my prints to print right.
    I design everything in solidworks, then import as a STL into their soft, choose the smallest step possible with excellent quality and I get thisAttachment 984
    Any idea on what I should be doing?
    Btw these are dyes for vaccum forming RC car body parts.
    Overaliders,
    I would suggest running your files through netfabs cloud service and then try printing again. Upload them as a .stl file. I have seen xyz tech support mention this to others as well. Netfab offers a free cloud service but you will need to create an account. Post back here if this works or does not work for you. My printer is still running great after many hours of printing. Unfortunately I upgraded the firmware recently. On a side not it really improved my print quality. Especially the top infill. I notice people are discussing the xyz printer on hackaday as well. Some good info there.
    Matt

  3. #13
    OVersliders,

    Sorry, I did not originally see the attached photo of your print. The print quality does not look that bad, the problem is the top layer infill is not correct. The new firmware from XYZ addresses this issue, I can confirm the top layer infill is much better now.

    Version: XYZware V1.1.28.5
    Release Note:


    1. Auto detect that firmware updating process is completed or not and show the progress bar.


    2. INFO shows the detailed information of 3w files.


    3. Improve the density of supports of printed objects for the overhang parts.


    4. Solve the incompletely filled problem for the flat tops of printed objects.


    5. Change the levels of 3D density into 0%, 10%, 30%, 50%, 90%.

    Like fr333n3rgy says, the firmware update may change the cartridge encryption. Honestly I would be a little surprised if they made the change so quickly. Has anyone confirmed the fact?

    Matt

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo442 View Post
    OVersliders,

    Sorry, I did not originally see the attached photo of your print. The print quality does not look that bad, the problem is the top layer infill is not correct. The new firmware from XYZ addresses this issue, I can confirm the top layer infill is much better now.

    Version: XYZware V1.1.28.5
    Release Note:


    1. Auto detect that firmware updating process is completed or not and show the progress bar.


    2. INFO shows the detailed information of 3w files.


    3. Improve the density of supports of printed objects for the overhang parts.


    4. Solve the incompletely filled problem for the flat tops of printed objects.


    5. Change the levels of 3D density into 0%, 10%, 30%, 50%, 90%.

    Like fr333n3rgy says, the firmware update may change the cartridge encryption. Honestly I would be a little surprised if they made the change so quickly. Has anyone confirmed the fact?

    Matt
    I originally thought they did -- but after further investigation and email :P - I realized that all they did is to limit the max filament size to 240 or so meters. I occasionally get it to work to 400m but unreliably, the LCD shows 400m but the software says "bad cartridge" - so my resetters are coded with the 240m for reliability. In any case, I already have a bios ready to go for when/if encryption is introduced, so it's ok ...

    I don't mind supporting a company if they can supply working products at competitive prices, but when their product fail (as it happen to me - twice) or isn't available (like for our friends in Italy which have zero stock and now are stuck with a 400 euro paperweight) than the resetter is the alternative to get our money worth out of the product ...

  5. #15
    If you upgraded your XYZ printer firmware by accident, you can downgrade back to version G using the instructions at http://wctek.com/xyz, you'll need to download the older bios, but besides that it's pretty straight forward.

  6. #16
    I'm going to upgrade the firmware tonight and let you know of the outcome. So far we are on the older firmware and it resets to 240m.
    We've managed to pull off some nice prints when messing with the settings. I do still feel a bit frustrated with quality but I was expecting it when buying a $500 printer, not a big deal so far.
    Also, I haven't checked the rest of the board's content, but do any of you smoothen your prints with solvents? If so, would anyone be kind enough to direct me to a thread on the board or YouTube DIY?
    Thx so much for the guidance, Thx fr333n3rgy for the reseter!

  7. #17
    no worries -- if you're resetting to 240, it'll work after the upgrade. Regarding smoothing, I did that last weekend - really easy. I used an electric (no flame!) portable stove and a large jar, i placed the jar on the stove and added about 1/2" acetone, i then built a little holder to hold the part with the least amount of touching points (as it won't go 'shiny' where it touches) and waited for it to heat up, after about 2-3 minutes I could see the acetone vapors on the side of the jar, and the part went all nice an shiny - i left it in there for about 6-7 minutes and took it out -- nice finish --

    The acetone vapors are heavier than air so they'll stay in the jar, but eventually they will evaporate so do this OUTSIDE! ...

    It's a really easy process ... try with scraps first. there are lots of youtube videos - search for "acetone abs" ...

    Have fun,
    F3

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by fr333n3rgy View Post
    no worries -- if you're resetting to 240, it'll work after the upgrade. Regarding smoothing, I did that last weekend - really easy. I used an electric (no flame!) portable stove and a large jar, i placed the jar on the stove and added about 1/2" acetone, i then built a little holder to hold the part with the least amount of touching points (as it won't go 'shiny' where it touches) and waited for it to heat up, after about 2-3 minutes I could see the acetone vapors on the side of the jar, and the part went all nice an shiny - i left it in there for about 6-7 minutes and took it out -- nice finish --

    The acetone vapors are heavier than air so they'll stay in the jar, but eventually they will evaporate so do this OUTSIDE! ...

    It's a really easy process ... try with scraps first. there are lots of youtube videos - search for "acetone abs" ...

    Have fun,
    F3
    Fr333n3rgy, you're the man! I appreciate the tip.
    I already saw some of the videos I was just curious if you guys used any other method.

    Also I have a stupid question: my partner is doing the firmware update tonight and asked me how was he suppose to do it. I was kind of clueless. Is it something going thru the xyzware or do you have to download it from XYZ and flash it through usb or flash?

  9. #19
    The firmware update box should come up when you connect the printer and start xyzware (it did for me at least). If iot doesn't click on firmware update in the "About box" he's probably on version G and the latest is version "I". Anyway once he clicks on both of those buttons (firmware and softwre update) the xyzware will download/install the lot. You need to have the printer connected and turned on of course. Good Luck.

  10. #20
    Turbo442 and fr333n3rgy, I saw the DaVinci on Amazon last week when I was searching for some parts to do some more work on a CNC router I have been working on for a couple of years. Up until seeing this printer I had stayed away from looking at 3D printers at all because I have enough hobbies sapping my bank account. The DaVinci could possibly change that for me though if it is a decent machine. How do you feel about it now that you have had it a couple of months and how do you feel it compares to other 3D printers?

    I have other hobbies that I think a 3D printer would be useful for. I build electronic projects fairly frequently and I would like to build some wireless modular arduino based sensor/controller devices that would snap together so an outlet or a light can be snapped onto a transceiver as well as snapping say a motion sensor to it. I would like to be able to print cases for these modules. I also have some light clamping and connecting designs I would like to print for use in photographic lighting. I can also see the possibility of creating some fantasy art costuming pieces I have wanted to make for quite some time, but I don't have the sculpting ability for. Obviously that would take a good deal of post production work with acetone fuming and painting, but it would get me much closer to the ball park than anything have been able to accomplish with clay.

    Any input would be appreciated. I was rather excited when I saw this printer, but then some other postings I have seen on this board seem to discourage use of this printer.

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