Pet+ as a good alternative to ABS

[RobH2]

You know, I've been thinking about doing that too, getting 3 or 4 heads for the main filaments that I use the most. It makes a lot of sense and it eliminates numerous issues with filament swapping. I'll be picking up some zip-strip this week too. Thanks for the advice.

[jimc]

rob here is the settings for the pet+ with slic3r. the guy that shared this said this is still a work in progress. temp may need to differ for your machine......oh man the forum wont allow me to attach it. send me a pm with an email address and i'll just mail it to you.


Here is the code incase others can use it:

---------------------------------------Begin Paste---------------------------------------

# generated by Slic3r 1.1.1-dev on Tue Apr 8 09:52:20 2014
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_size = 200,250
bed_temperature = 70
bottom_solid_layers = 3
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 0
bridge_flow_ratio = 1.25
bridge_speed = 80
brim_width = 0
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
default_acceleration = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 100
duplicate_distance = 6
end_gcode = ; start custom G-code\nM104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0 ; turn of HBP\nG91 ; go relative\nG1 Z30 ; drop Z\nM106 S155 ; push bedfan to about 12V\nG90 ; set absolute\nG1 X30 ; move to left\nG1 Y80 ; move to sensible Y position\nG1 F450 ; set slow speed\nG1 X160 ; move X to end for fan cooling\nG1 X40 ; move X to beginning\nM106 S0 ; disable fan\nG1 F10800 ; high speed\nG1 Y220 ; present parts for removal\nM84 ; disable motors\nM108 S0 ; turn off extruder and electronics fans\n; end custom G-code
external_perimeter_speed = 100%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 0
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 0.9
extrusion_width = 0
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_diameter = 1.75
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = rectilinear
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 70
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0
first_layer_height = 100%
first_layer_speed = 30%
first_layer_temperature = 240
g0 = 0
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_speed = 80
interface_shells = 0
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.25
max_fan_speed = 0
min_fan_speed = 0
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 0
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.35
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].g
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 60
perimeters = 3
post_process =
print_center = 100,125
raft_layers = 0
randomize_start = 0
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_layer_change = 1
retract_length = 1
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0.8
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 10
skirt_distance = 3
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 15
small_perimeter_speed = 60
solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 80
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_gcode = ; start of custom G-code\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\nM108 S155 ; make sure extruder fan is on\nG28 ; home the axes\nG92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ; tell the M2 that we're homed\n; now extrude a bit of filament off the edge and wipe it off\nG1 F5000 Y30 X30\nG1 X220\nG1 F100 E10\n; re-home and reset the zero coordinates\nG28\nG92 X0 Y0 Z0\n; end of custom G-code
start_perimeters_at_concave_points = 0
start_perimeters_at_non_overhang = 1
support_material = 1
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 1
support_material_pattern = pillars
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_threshold = 45
temperature = 240
thin_walls = 1
threads = 4
toolchange_gcode =
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 60
top_solid_layers = 3
travel_speed = 300
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
vibration_limit = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0


----------------End Paste------------------

[Geoff]

Totally learn something new everyday in this industry. Ordered some PET today, Transparent, keen to try it now! I don't plan on smoothing so I don't need worry about the meth chloride, would prefer to avoid chemicals if I can.

[RobH2]

Would love to see some photos of that transparent printing. It seems thicker layer sizes gives you clearer prints.

[Geoff]

I just need something that looks more transparent, I mean the stuff I've got now is ok, but it's frosted which is fantastic for diffusing bright lights, but not for other projects.

I printed this lamp shade for a big project, I printed it at 0% infil and 2 shells..

It literally printed 2 walls and thats it, and still its quite frosted. It will work well for the purpose that I printed it for, but it's not really what I thought I was buying, like always the commercial looked better



And 2 x 0.2mm shells... The inner shell is extremely flexible - this is why I love ABS.

[RobH2]

Hmmm, it looks nice if you want frosted/translucent. It's definitely not clear. What was your layer height?

There are a lot of uses for frosted parts but I too have some uses for clear prints. I don't think at a RepRap level we'll get glass-clear anything. I'd guess that resin STL will be the only way to get that. The fact that we have hundreds of layer divisions embedded means we have hundreds of refractively dead contact lines. Those add up together to prevent really good transparency. That's just basic physics. But maybe there is something out there that is a little clearer. Other than the fact it wasn't as clear as you'd have liked, did it print nicely? Did you have any printing issues at all?

I still like it though. Thanks for the photos.

[jimc]

geoff, any crystal clear filament we print on fdm printers will come out frosted like that BUT you can get the stuff clearer that what you have there. i have seen some somewhat clear prints on taulman's site and it think they were using a .5 and or a .75 nozzle with very high layer heights. the thinner the layers the more cloudy it will be. pet has more flex to it that abs for sure. i cant tell in your one pic but it looks like your walls arent bonded together. out of curiosity what brand pet did you end up using?

[jimc]

here is some good info to explain. read through this page to help you tweak your setting for clearer prints.


http://www.taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html

[kanningphish]

I wasn't even aware of PET+. What would you say is the best use for this stuff over PLA or ABS?

[jimc]

i use it now for everything. pla imo is about worthless for anything that functions so pet+ has higher temp resistance, its stronger and its much more flexible. compared to abs, its stronger, more flexible, a hair less heat resistant and you dont have anywhere near the amt of warp. only time i use abs now is if i need a specific color or i am looking for something a bit more rigid.