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  1. #11
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    10
    Found this interesting comment. (i guess I wasn't wrong about that tripod style design).

    Quote: "flexible shaft? why? Printer can handle Dremel without problems. Precision is suck, due to bad Geeetech 3D printer design."

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1266600/#comments

    I have a long flexible shaft too. Perhaps it could be possible with the ally getech? Though I'm still worried that the "precision is suck".

    Thoughts?

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by KoroKoro View Post
    ... I have a long flexible shaft too...
    *quietly leaves thread*


  3. #13
    How big of a printer do you need? What kind of materials will you be working with?

  4. #14
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    10
    sebastian, dont act like you dont have one



    this prototype i am needing is only 50 x 50 x 50. Though who knows what I'll be printing in the future. The prototype will just be made from ABS plastic, though for when I print other parts which need strength, this carbon fibre filament sounds good.
    The alloy max size of 200 x 200 x 180 sounds useful. Since this will open many more avenues, I could be printing PCBs, stuff for RC hobby... so many possibilities. I'd hate to find that I need 50mm more.

    Anything else I should consider before buying this?

  5. #15
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    new zealand
    Posts
    10
    If you look at this one:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/free...b-4eb0efa5a4a3

    It has proper lead screws,rather than the threaded rod on the ebay one.It has an acrylic frame,and though some people don,t like them,mine has been perfectly fine for 2 years.
    Close to $500au seems rather a lot for that ebay job.It,s still coming from China,so if you cut out the middleman,you,ll save a coupla hundred bucks.The alloy frame is perhaps an advantage,but the z-axis allthread rods aren't.
    As for the electronics,almost ALL of that type of stuff is now made in China,Korea,or Malaysia.Their quality levels have risen rapidly,adding reliability,and I predict the prices will catch up sooner or later.
    I would shy away from anything with a Melzi control board,mine burned out the bed heater after about a months use.But that is just my personal opinion,for what it's worth.

  6. #16
    A personal tip, try to buy from Amazon, something like the WanHao? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Sel...s_6066127011_3

    Their buyer protection programs are off the charts. Selling there is a pain in the arse but you are protected 100%

  7. #17
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    10
    perhaps the threaded rod wont be a deal breaker. Looks like I can upgrade that part without too much hassle. square acme threads look pretty easy to get.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8mm-T8-Tr...RHJRXEacuJH3fQ

    The 1mm pitch, 1mm lead with support bearings on each end looks ideal

    I dunno about thinner steel frames (that front plate looks like its only 0.9 or 1.2mm) ... 6mm ally still looks quite sturdy.

  8. #18
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    10
    also, just wondering... for cnc side of things, do people replace those belts with acme threads too? those belts look quite stretchy

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by KoroKoro View Post
    sebastian, dont act like you dont have one



    this prototype i am needing is only 50 x 50 x 50. Though who knows what I'll be printing in the future. The prototype will just be made from ABS plastic, though for when I print other parts which need strength, this carbon fibre filament sounds good.
    The alloy max size of 200 x 200 x 180 sounds useful. Since this will open many more avenues, I could be printing PCBs, stuff for RC hobby... so many possibilities. I'd hate to find that I need 50mm more.

    Anything else I should consider before buying this?
    That won't be suitable for ABS, unless you make a hood that completely covers the entire printer and that'll be a pain to heat and keep hot.


  10. #20
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    10
    So just a hood? I dont think that will be difficult. I have many clear 50L tubs that could do the job. Though as a more permanent solution would be nice to keep it protected from dust and cats. I'm not so worried about swarf. Or is it more an issue of heating wattage? I thought the part needs to cool do avoid sagging and mushing detail.

    https://youtu.be/7LVu3Ir10UQ?t=6m56s

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