The curse of ABS (Warping)

[DrLuigi]

Please accept my deepest condolences for such a nice print, it really looked well until it cracked :/

Another although quite wasteful solution would be to put one or two of those IR heating lamps on the printer so they heat the printed part.
But you will use lots of electricity :P

I don't think that brim of any size will help with that part since the cracks appear all over the object due to inner tension.

- Filip

Haha, Well it isnt one of the best i had ^^
http://puu.sh/47KmU
Is one my coolest prints imo ^^
Well its a bulb or a box so the heat stays inside i guess.

Agreed a brim won't help here. I think the only way to remedy this is to keep the piece uniformity heated since it really does seem like it's cracking due to internal stress from uneven cooling. The heat lamps sound like a good idea, I use standard 40w bulbs for keeping wax warm while I sculpt, and shouldn't cost you more than $3/yr

Well i will see, Its that or a box, or i might just use ABS for small parts and when i wanna print bigger stuff i will have to use some nice PLA :P



Thanks for the help guys,
As side note i realy like how this community is growing with some very nice members, Realy hoping the best atm




Edit:

Try lowering the printhead for the first layer to get better adhesion, also not sure if the fan is pointing on the print or ducted towards the head but have you tried without the fan? Some swear without a fan is the way to go for ABS. One last thing is printing on a raft helps many people.

Didnt see your post, you probably made yours when i was posting mine ^^
Well i have 2 fans, One is always on and thats blowing air on the PEEK of the hot end, the other on the plastic, The one with a funnel to the plastic is controlable and is only on when i use PLA not with ABS.

[Black_sheep]

True that, 40W bulb really shouldn't burn too much. I am running multiple machines at a time thus my favorite material is PLA. It even smells better and Faberdashery supplies colors that you simply can't stop loving

Haha, Well it isnt one of the best i had ^^
http://puu.sh/47KmU
Is one my coolest prints imo ^^
Well its a bulb or a box so the heat stays inside i guess.

Nice owl indeed is this PLA?

[DrLuigi]

Well i also used PLA normaly, but wanted to try ABS for once,

I do hate that when you have like a smaller pin (1-3mm diameter) its VERY brittle, With ABS it seems to be better, Didnt try it yet tho, but it just seems like its stronger in smaller sizes.

Probably going to test that over a few days.

[Black_sheep]

Yeah, PLA parts can be very brittle when thin. From my experience you can make thin parts a bit more rigid if you use more perimeters (lets say 5 or more), normally I print with 2 or 3 perimeters.
Though I must say some good quality filament performs very well when dealing with thinner objects.

[DrLuigi]

Well with cura i just set the wall thicker and thicker density/full.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o6jur4ylv5...2020.05.26.jpg ^^ (0.3 layer height, 70mm/s print speed, Normal PLA, took about 5 hours and 30 minutes)

Just a little Tool holder i made in Solidworks for a caliper and such.

Kinda going off topic now hehe ^^

[Black_sheep]

That's a nice print, in fact you just gave me an idea to make something similar for lab test tubes. Those stainless steel holders for test tubes are kinda expensive here so why not print them

I suppose thicker wall is the same as perimeter settings is Slic3r so you might have some luck with thinner parts if you increase it.

Anyways almost every part is unique and unfortunately there is no universal setting that works well on every part. But hey that's why 3D printing will never make you bored

[Hårball]

The solution to this is simple, turn up the heat on your bed, i had similar problems in the past, but then tried to print at 120c, it worked like a charm, the plastic keeps softer then, and does not "collect" the warping forces in the print.

i set my first layer temp to 100c and the other layers to 120c, that way i dont have to wait forever for the bed to get to temerature and the printing to begin.

[RP Iron Man]

The solution to this is simple, turn up the heat on your bed, i had similar problems in the past, but then tried to print at 120c, it worked like a charm, the plastic keeps softer then, and does not "collect" the warping forces in the print.

i set my first layer temp to 100c and the other layers to 120c, that way i dont have to wait forever for the bed to get to temerature and the printing to begin.

I actually do the opposite. I print with the first layer at 110C and the other layers at 80C within my "garbage chamber" (clear garbage bag chamber). I find that if I set the temp above 100C for the entire print I get some heat distortion of the part on the bottom layers.

Eric

[Hårball]

You mean that the weight of the part squishes the bottom layers?

[Black_sheep]

I actually do the opposite. I print with the first layer at 110C and the other layers at 80C within my "garbage chamber" (clear garbage bag chamber). I find that if I set the temp above 100C for the entire print I get some heat distortion of the part on the bottom layers.

Eric

Hi Eric,

Do you use kapton tape or do you print directly to the glass?