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Thread: About to try Marlin1.1.0RC4...
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04-11-2016, 12:11 PM #11
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This exact behaviour was observed by others when building with Arduino 1.0.6. The problem "magically" goes away when building with later versions of the Arduino IDE. I installed 1.6.8, and voila, printing from SD now works.
For reference: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/3229
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04-11-2016, 02:42 PM #12
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04-11-2016, 05:26 PM #13
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04-28-2016, 02:29 PM #14
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Does anyone have config files for Makerfarm I3V 12" with Marlin RC6 mesh and Rumba they can post ?
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04-28-2016, 07:24 PM #15
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I can share my current Configuration.h.
It is compatible with the RCBugFix branch of Marlin as of this writing, though you should review the diffs before applying them to your system.
It is configured for the following:
- Makerfarm I3V 12"
- RUMBA
- Hexagon HE (w/ associated thermistor)
- Standard LCD (i.e., not the "graphical"/big display)
- Manual Mesh Leveling is enabled.
- SD Card support is enabled.
It also includes optimizations based on the work of printbus:
The entire thread is worth reviewing.
Keep in mind you may need/want to tweak your slicer settings to align with the printbus changes.
I also made some minor tweaks regarding some dimensional settings, to allow for clips..., etc. I will probably revisit some of those changes in the future, but for now, they work for me.
I've attached the file..., hopefully it arrives intact.
Good luck! -- John
Configuration.h
Last edited by lakester; 04-28-2016 at 07:34 PM.
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04-28-2016, 08:03 PM #16
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Thanks . I apriciate it. I should be able to make any needed changes from here. My slicer is simplify3d
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04-28-2016, 09:57 PM #17
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Does anything need to be changed in config.adv ? How does mesh work with the fixed Z endstop on the i3v? Im having trouble understanding that. With the robo the xaxis lifts of the z rods which triggers the endstops so it basically z homes below the bed .With the makerfarm the fixed z endstop would be above the bed so how do you do the leveling process?
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04-28-2016, 10:38 PM #18
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I don't recall changing anything in config.adv.
The process is to first go through the regular mechanical leveling, setting the z-stop in the xy home position, and making sure that the other three corners are set to the same gap.
From that point, you go through the manual mesh leveling process, which allows for both positive and negative z-corrections..., wherein corrected/effective z can actually dip below the end-stop limited Z (but only by a very limited amount). So..., the bed has to be mechanically level within this z tolerance, and then you use mesh leveling.
Don't forget to store results in EEPROM when done.
FWIW, the steps I follow after burning new firmware are:
- from the control panel...
- reset to "factory" config (these are the settings you set in Configuration.h)
- store to EEPROM
- do manual mesh leveling.
- store to EEPROM
It's not clear to me what the compatibility is in EEPROM from build to build, so I go with better safe than sorry and redo it whenever I update the firmware.
Also, FWIW..., I have to do the full mechanical leveling very rarely these days, so maybe do the mesh leveling every couple of weeks or so. I have a fairly consistent heating "protocol", so things settle down pretty repeatably. Will be switching to a metal Y-plate when I have some tinkering time, which I assume will improve stability over time even further.
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04-30-2016, 12:50 AM #19
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Thanks. Iv been using mesh leveling on my Robo for a while now. I got RC6 with mesh leveling all setup and running but for some reason i keep getting thermal runaway like 90% done with the print. Not sure why this is. Any ideas. Other then that its printing up until then fine. Maybe firmware issue or possibly has to do with the Z always moving now thus heating up the stepper driver more?
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04-30-2016, 11:29 AM #20
I would suggest relaxing the thermal parameters in Configuration_adv.h They might be set too tightly for your machine. But it is a little bit strange it happens at the end of the print instead of early on.
(By 'relax' I mean make the time duration longer and the temperature change a number smaller. It will make it less likely to trip the protection if your hardware is having problems at the heat you are trying to operate.)
My 3D Norn Emissary print
09-13-2024, 02:28 AM in 3D Printing Gallery