layers adhesion

[ARTISAN]

so ive been upgraded my slicer to S3D..

the prints are a lot cleaner...and the overall look it beter...
but ive goten that :
12953160_1062904547102066_112131107_o.jpg

and if you cant see in my 4K picture

the first layers got poor adhesion...broke apart very easy

like i said...the prints do look cleaner somehow

but the overall strength/sturdiness is weaker

any Suggestions??

cheers.!

[Geoff]

so ive been upgraded my slicer to S3D..

the prints are a lot cleaner...and the overall look it beter...
but ive goten that :
12953160_1062904547102066_112131107_o.jpg

and if you cant see in my 4K picture

the first layers got poor adhesion...broke apart very easy

like i said...the prints do look cleaner somehow

but the overall strength/sturdiness is weaker

any Suggestions??

cheers.!

You have too many options to play with to say what it could be exactly, another reason I stick with makerware for alot of things - no you can't tweak it as much but I rarely even need to.

[curious aardvark]

Increase your print temperature.
That usually solves most layer adhesion issues. 5-10c extra can make a lot of difference.

I find that the conventional advice is to try and print at as low a temperature as you can.
I tend to do the opposite and print at the highest temp thats till gives me clean sharp prints.

I get much stronger prints and no layer issues. I reckon that's one reason I have no problems with pla and other people claim it's weak and brittle. They're printing at too low a temperature.

Yes you can print pla at 180 - but try it at 210 and it's a far superior final material.

And while s3d does ahve alot of things to fiddle with. If you dn't fiddle - it works just as well as makerware - which also has a lot of things to fiddle with when you pick the custom profile option, just no explanation of what most of them do.
I've actually found that using notepad to edit the makerware profiles is much much easier than proftweak, which tends to randomly reset stuff and crashes a lot.

[Geoff]

I find that the conventional advice is to try and print at as low a temperature as you can.

^ This

I decide the heat setting for a filament when it stops clicking
I think alot of people (no one here, just in general) assume just because the last lot of PLA you had went well at 200c, doesn't mean the next lot will, same with ABS hey.. such a variance in temperatures. Although I do find for PLA 205c with really good cooling seems to be my magic number, unless printing at 0.05mm on the kossel, in which case i'll drop it to as low as I can possibly go, borderline.

[ARTISAN]

Increase your print temperature.
That usually solves most layer adhesion issues. 5-10c extra can make a lot of difference.

I find that the conventional advice is to try and print at as low a temperature as you can.
I tend to do the opposite and print at the highest temp thats till gives me clean sharp prints.

I get much stronger prints and no layer issues. I reckon that's one reason I have no problems with pla and other people claim it's weak and brittle. They're printing at too low a temperature.

Yes you can print pla at 180 - but try it at 210 and it's a far superior final material.

And while s3d does ahve alot of things to fiddle with. If you dn't fiddle - it works just as well as makerware - which also has a lot of things to fiddle with when you pick the custom profile option, just no explanation of what most of them do.
I've actually found that using notepad to edit the makerware profiles is much much easier than proftweak, which tends to randomly reset stuff and crashes a lot.

im printing:
extr 207-210
bed 50-60