New to 3D printing

[Moncada]

Hola,

I joined the forum because I want to get involved in 3D printing. I am a Mechanical Engineer and I have experience in Engineering Design and Product Development using software such as (AutoCAD Inventor, SolidWorks and for the past two years Siemens NX) By the end of this summer I will quit my job and I will have plenty of free time. I want to get a 3D printer and later on probably next year I want to start a prototyping business so if possible I want to get a printer that I don't have to replace right away. So what is the best way to choose my printer? Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks
Moncada

[cjalas]

First let's start with your budget?

$200 to $500?

$600 to $900?

$1000+?

Depending on your budget, we can recommend different printers based on your needs.

Without any idea of budget though, I can fully recommend the QiDi Tech 3D Printer here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-arrival-...-/331753824735

It's a solid all metal enclosure printer, dual extruder nozzle (for when you want to print dual colors, or use support material on one nozzle while printing your main filament on the other), has led lighting, a good customer base here on the forums, good support from the manufacturer, acrylic wall enclosures, heated bed platform (for using more materials than just PLA), and is pretty much fully upgradeable/customizable due to a large support base. Usually runs around $650 if you do a Best Offer to the seller on eBay.

It's a great entry into 3D Printing, and any issues you may encounter can usually be resolved or helped by those here on the forums, and it comes pre-built for you already (and includes filament).

[LambdaFF]

A few things.

1/ The volume of the objects you intend to print is important. Take it into account when you choose. Avoids uselessly condemning yourself to glueing components 15cms wide.

2/ What material do you intend to print ? If you just want to do playthings, PLA is a good choice and any machine can do it. If you intend to do more serious stuff, a heated bed becomes necessary (for ABS for instance), and an all-metal hotend if you intend to print Nylon, PET, ...

3/ Dual heads is something that I no longer use as much : it requires a lot of work to get right and in the end, I think the technology of 2 heads next to each other is not the best way to go. If anything, I would do it that way, which is much smarter.http://spiderbot.eu/en/blog/dual-hea...a-release.html

4/ 3D printers are not as fail-proof as your normal 2D printer, they are much less automated and "smart". You will need to tinker with it and you will need spares, support from the manufacturer. Don't buy an unknown kit from an online reseller that will let you down the next day.

I have bought (yes, from Europe) a Printrbot Metal Plus and I'm very happy with it : it's very reliable, robust, the support from PB is great and they devise upgrades frequently that make it evolve rather than buying a new one. I put some of what I've been doing with it there : http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...al-Plus-prints

[curious aardvark]

budget is your most important consideration followed by what you actually intend to print.

Also detail level is important and determines whether you go for a fff machine or a resin based sla type.

So give us some details and we'll argue about the best printer for you :-)

[LambdaFF]

FFF : it stands for fused filament fabrication or something like it. basically you have a hotend moving around depositing heated thermoplastics.

sla type : you have a vat of resin on which you beam a laser or a light pattern.

There are differences in
* the cost : filament can be as cheap as 20€/kg, while the cheapest resin is usually 80€/kg. Quite the same in $
* the precision : sla type printers have a much smoother finish as you can have much lower layer thickness
* process : to clean a fff print you need sand paper and a file. To clean a resin print you need isopropyl alcohol
* the mechanical properties : they are quite different

For enclosures I would say that FFF is good enough. My point of view. My advice : make a design, have it manufactured on 3D hubs on both technologies and see for yourself.

As to the price. Well... for 225$, you get what you pay for... If I were you I would stay away from no name online resellers that will provide no aftersales support. These are not fail proof smartphones for which you don't even read the manual : for these machines and you will need support.

[curious aardvark]

Again - avoid chinese mail order kits.
spend a few dollars more and get one of these: http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame

And for someone who claims to have read some threads - you don't seem to have learned anything :-)

Hundreds of threads on both cheap printers and free cad software.
The way I look at it - if you can't be arsed to read the relevant threads on the forum, how much effort will you put into learning how to use the software and printer ?

[LambdaFF]

The way I look at it - if you can't be arsed to read the relevant threads on the forum, how much effort will you put into learning how to use the software and printer ?

I was thinking of that too, but didn't know how to say it diplomatically. You have a way with words CA...

[dklh80]

Hi guys, sorry to drop in like that, but the title "New to 3D printing" sounds about right. I've just spent the last 3 days assembling my new 3D printer. A Tevo Tarantula Prusa i3. I chose this as it was said that this is the easiest to build, okay specc'd 3D printer. I hope I haven't made a mistake.

I've managed to assemble everything (and with the purchase of a few extra screws and bolts), got it up and running. However, I have no idea what settings to work with to get a basic 3D print out. The printer seems to move around the board faster than the filament can extrude. I'll list down the specs and I hope that someone can advise me on settings and also setup, or point me to a right advisory area. I've been scanning around on google, but I'm just a noob and hope that someone can be good hearted enough to help this poor soul.

Brand : Tevo Tarantula Prusa i3 Dual Extruder with large plate (200x280x200) and auto levelling
Filament : PLA (came in the package for free)

PS : I also forgot to mention that I'm using a mac. I have already downloaded the following softwares :

123D Design
Cura
Repetier (always crashes)
Meshmixer (no idea how to even start)
Slic3r (again, not sure how to use)

I hope you guys won't gun me down for being a noob, I would really appreciate any help I can get.

Thank you and looking forward to hearing back from someone.

D

[LambdaFF]

Well, here is a proposition, just to get you started, you can improve on it later.

Moving speed : 60mm/s
Vertical move speed : 30mm/s

Printing speed 40mm/s
perimeter printing speed : 75% of printing speed
1st layer printing speed : 50% of printing speed

number of shells : 2
number of top layers : 3
number of bottom layers : 2
overlap on perimeter : 20%

layer thickness : 0.2mm
retraction : 0.4mm (if you have an all metal hot end) 4mm (if you have a standard hot end)
Infill : 20%
infill pattern : 45° and -45° grid pattern

support trigger angle : 50°
support infill : 30%
support contact infill : 70%
support distance to part : 0,5mm
max un-supported area : 3mm²

printing temperature : 215°C for 1st layer ; 210°C for following layers
printing must wait for stabilized temperature before start
bed temperature : 60°C
fan speed: 0 for 1st layer ; 50% for layer 2 to 4 ; 100% for layers 5 and above
Min layer time : 10 seconds. allow under speed to 30%

once you get that working, we can work on a finish code that stops the heating and moves the head away from your part

Hope you have fun

[dklh80]

Well, here is a proposition, just to get you started, you can improve on it later.

Moving speed : 60mm/s
Vertical move speed : 30mm/s

Printing speed 40mm/s
perimeter printing speed : 75% of printing speed
1st layer printing speed : 50% of printing speed

number of shells : 2
number of top layers : 3
number of bottom layers : 2
overlap on perimeter : 20%

layer thickness : 0.2mm
retraction : 0.4mm (if you have an all metal hot end) 4mm (if you have a standard hot end)
Infill : 20%
infill pattern : 45° and -45° grid pattern

support trigger angle : 50°
support infill : 30%
support contact infill : 70%
support distance to part : 0,5mm
max un-supported area : 3mm²

printing temperature : 215°C for 1st layer ; 210°C for following layers
printing must wait for stabilized temperature before start
bed temperature : 60°C
fan speed: 0 for 1st layer ; 50% for layer 2 to 4 ; 100% for layers 5 and above
Min layer time : 10 seconds. allow under speed to 30%

once you get that working, we can work on a finish code that stops the heating and moves the head away from your part

Hope you have fun

Dear LambdaFF,

Thank you so much for the advice. I'll try that tonight and let you know what happens.