Filament refusing to feed.

[dlps73]

Situation - using the Utilities/Change Filament/Load Right Menu and waiting until the correct temperature - as I start pushing the filament in it appears to start feeding and then it just "skips" this is accompanied by a rapid tick, tick, tick noise and the filament won't progress any further.
I've tried on the second head and it does the same.
The printer has had about 20 hours use.

Cheers.........Doug

[bigo93]

1) You have a clog. The ticking sound is the motor unable to extrude the filament.

2) Temperature is not high enough for the filament you are using. It's not melting so the motor will not extrude, which again makes the ticking sound.
Again the thermisters arent accurate, It might say 200 degrees on your printer, but the real temperature may be 180. You need to find the correct temps for each roll of filament you use.
When loading the filament, the extruder heats up to it's preset value. So increase the preset to increase the temp used for loading and unloading.

[dlps73]

Thanks Bigo93 - I think I'll go with the clog version as it's been printing fine...

[Alibert]

I have had this countless times with my replicator clones.

The cause is most likely that there is still a piece of previous filament in the heatbreak/heatthroat under the extruder drive gear. When you feeed new filament, it doesn't push the old filament through but slips to the side where it can not enter the heatbreak. As the old filament is under the gear, you can not remove it by unloading the filament as the gear can not grip it.

You will need to remove the fan from the front to solve this (two front screws). After removing the fan you will most likely see a piece fo filament sticking out the heatthroat. Heat up the nozzle and either push it down with a needle or so, or pull it out with tweezers. Aftter it has been removed remount the fan and feed the new filament as usual.

Be aware that the fan will start to spin when the nozzle reaches 50C, so make sure that nothing will hit the blades and break one. Also be aware that there are two nylon spacers behind the cooling block, don't let them drop and roll into a hole to the electronics compartment. Guess how I found those two things out....

[EagleSeven]

Situation - using the Utilities/Change Filament/Load Right Menu and waiting until the correct temperature - as I start pushing the filament in it appears to start feeding and then it just "skips" this is accompanied by a rapid tick, tick, tick noise and the filament won't progress any further.
I've tried on the second head and it does the same.
The printer has had about 20 hours use.

Cheers.........Doug

As others have said,
the guide-tubes (throat) may be full of un-melted filament.
I've had to use a drill-bit and/or a brass-rod
to clean out filament that broke close to top of tube,
since it would not melt enough to be able to push it thru with new filament and was stuck.

First try pushing in a brass-rod with pliers, before disassemble though,
you can apply more force with hand than motor-drive can.
May be able to push it down enough to start melting.

Note: brass-rod should be just large enough to fit in guide-tube without sticking,
use only brass-rod so it will not damage drive-gear on motor

[3dex ltd]

Yes as EagleSeven stated, a drill bit or pliers are you best option if you have a small piece of filament in the top of the nozzle. Can be a right pain

[dlps73]

Jam.jpg


Thanks for all the replies - I've taken the fan off and the path is clear. Whatever the obstruction is it's about 24mm from the nozzle upwards (after the drive gear).
I'll try and find something thin to dislodge it - I've ordered a Cleaning Kit from eBay in the interim.....

[Alibert]

OK, it is halfway down the heatthroat. There should be a PTFE tube there, so a blockage there is surprising for a machine with only 20 hours unless the temperature was too high for the PTFE tube and it deformed (or the chinese forgot to put one in?).

If you heat up the nozzle to 200C and use pliers to hold the heat block (carefull not to grip the heating element or thermistor), you can then unscrew the brass nozzle with a wrench without twisting the heat block. With the nozzle removed (it is hot, drop it on your heatbed), push filament through from the top. Most likely the PTFE with the blockage will pop out so you can inspect it. If there is no PTFE tube there you will need to get some (3mm OD and 2mm ID). If the PTFE tubed is deformed, replace it. If you can not remove the blockage, then replace the PTFE tube. ...... and order extra tube and extra nozzles from china so you have them handy when needed (you will need them in the future). It only costs a few dollars but you will need to wait a few weeks for them to arrive.

[EagleSeven]

There should be a PTFE tube there, so a blockage there is surprising for a machine with only 20 hours unless the temperature was too high for the PTFE tube and it deformed (or the chinese forgot to put one in?).

The PTFE insert type tube is Not needed !
It causes more problems than it helps !
( a Stainless-steel tube with No insert works best, for the Longest time )
The inside diameter of the steel only tube is about the same as the ID of inserts.

[Alibert]

The PTFE insert type tube is Not needed !
It causes more problems than it helps !
( a Stainless-steel tube with No insert works best, for the Longest time )

Nevertheless most (all?) replicator clones I know of are delivered with ptfe liners. If you have that kind of heat throat, the inner diameter is too large to use it without a ptfe liner regardless of the ptfe/all-metal debate....