Close



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
  1. #11
    Senior Engineer
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Burnley, UK
    Posts
    1,662
    What you print next are some calibration pieces so that you know how much bigger to make holes or how to scale your part for accurate dimensions.

  2. #12
    Thanks - I Googled 3D printer calibration and will check a few of them out. I'll start with this one.

    http://blog.mcmelectronics.com/post/...n#.VsmgSJx9670

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84795

  3. #13
    Technologist LuckyImperial's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Campbell, CA
    Posts
    162
    Small gauge guitar string is great for unclogging hot ends without having to disassemble it. Or, you can buy something from a dedicated vendor:

    http://www.makergeeks.com/nsearch.ht...ergeeks.com%2F

  4. #14
    Senior Engineer
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Burnley, UK
    Posts
    1,662
    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyImperial View Post
    Small gauge guitar string is great for unclogging hot ends without having to disassemble it. Or, you can buy something from a dedicated vendor:

    http://www.makergeeks.com/nsearch.ht...ergeeks.com%2F
    That is a dental file, they come in packs of 5 for about $0.

  5. #15
    Thanks LuckyImperial and Mjolinor for the tips. My son has guitars so I'll get a small diameter string from him and check out the dental files.

    The problem I had on the first day with the printer was that the PLA was stuck at the top of the head. I put a small needle up from the bottom and it went up a long way. But for some reason it was jammed near the top of the head as if that part was not getting heated. So I cut off the PLA and pushed a hex key in the hole to release the stuck PLA but that was after disassembling the head/fan, as per the manual.

    So not sure yet what causes that but it has been going good since but that is not long. I do check and adjust the bed quite a bit with a piece of A4 paper just to make sure the space is correct. I am not sure if it would jam like it has if the head was too close to the bed.

    It is hard to get the objects off the bed even when cooled but I suppose a lot use masking tape?



  6. #16
    Technologist LuckyImperial's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Campbell, CA
    Posts
    162
    The jamming is probably because you're leaving the hot end hot without printing for too long. Printers don't like to idle when the hot end is hot. Otherwise the heat travels up the filament, causing it to expand and jam inside of of the hot end.

    If you have trouble with removal, try Kapton tape instead of blue masking tape. The smooth surface texture of kapton tape makes it grab a little less.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyImperial View Post
    The jamming is probably because you're leaving the hot end hot without printing for too long. Printers don't like to idle when the hot end is hot. Otherwise the heat travels up the filament, causing it to expand and jam inside of of the hot end.

    If you have trouble with removal, try Kapton tape instead of blue masking tape. The smooth surface texture of kapton tape makes it grab a little less.
    Thanks that is what I did. I said to myself I will be coming back soon so I guess the printer can stay on. It probably was quite a while so that would have been the problem.

    I have not been putting tape on the bed so far but looks like most use tape to make it easier to take the object off the bed.

    Just wondered if the settings like heat etc are all included in the object being printed or are there some in the printer settings that need adjusting?

    Wondered if these settings are correct and do they need to be adjusted for every print I do?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Firepower; 02-25-2016 at 12:31 AM.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •