How can i get a large print to stick???

[PrintGuy]

I'm done trouble shooting and out of ideas. Here is the rundown.... I've adjusted the print bed to between 90 - 120 C. I've also used hairspray and that did work pretty well for the smaller prints. As you can see from my pic this print will not stay attached. This is at least the 12th try. On this print I also tried a generous amount of hairspray but no luck. I'm looking for troubleshooting ideas, thx.

IMG_2719.JPG

[Marm]

Brims, different adhesive, circles on the corners.

Getting tired of typing out the same advice few times a week, but not to be a total dick, I'll see if i can find a link.

But, even without knowing what material you're printing, that bed temp seems high, but those specs aren't my forte.

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...considerations

[JohnnyV]

What printer are you using?

What settings are you currently using?

What material?

What is the model?

How many solid bottom layers are you using?

What infill percentage?

Provide more information and maybe we can help you.

I assume you're using ABS since you're using hairspray. If so, try these settings
Nozzle temp 235
Bed temp 100
Print speed 50 mm/s
Infill 25%
Layer height 0.125
5 bottom layers
Use a raft (if you don't want to use a raft, use a brim, 15 outlines, 4 layers, zero separation from the part.

Too many solid layers at the bottom can cause extreme warping with ABS. Too much infill can cause weird shrinkage issues.

[Davo]

Search for "corner lift" to understand the causes and what can be done to counter it.

[djprinter]

ABS slurry, corner pucks, heat, squashed first layer, luck.

[ssayer]

Use PETG instead of ABS. Problem solved...

[Sebastian Finke]

At the risk of sounding like a stuck record...

when printing ABS make sure your printer is fully enclosed and preheated.

[LuckyImperial]

I'll give you a thorough answer. I'm bored at work.

ABS lifting/adhesion issues are quite common and can be solved with a few simple tricks, some of which were glossed over already. The following list, in priority of importance, will help you eliminate ABS lifting.

1. A properly leveled bed with a .1mm Zmin gap.
- When your printer is at it's lowest point you should have a .1mm gap between the nozzle and the bed. People commonly use a piece of paper to test for a .1mm gap. If you can easily slide a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed then it's too high. The piece of paper should slide under with a little resistance. You can also buy a feeler gauge which offers a little more accuracy than a piece of paper. http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Metric-.../dp/B0052IRYVS.

- The .1mm gap should be consistent across the entire bed. Move the nozzle to the four corners of the bed using G1 commands (G1 Zxxx Xxxx Yxx F500) and make sure that there is a consistent .1mm gap. If it's not consistent then you need to level the bed with shims. Many people mount there bed to springs and screws to allow for easy leveling. http://www.ultibots.com/springy-corner-bracket-kit-x4/

2. Your heated bed should be set to 105-110C and all fans should be turned off. Any less and the abs will cool too much and contract.

3. Use a proper adhesion film. Hairspray and purple glue stick should work, but better things have been invented. BuildTak or a GekoTek build plate are the two I can confidently recommend. BuildTak is what I use daily, and this stuff is nuts. http://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Print...ords=build+tak. You may have trouble removing prints after the conversion to BuildTak. If you insist on using Hairspray/blue tape/kapton tape/purple glue stick (the cheap stuff), then less is more. A thicker coat of hairspray is worse than a nice thin coat.

4. An enclosure to keep the heat in. Like Sabastian says, ABS really should be printed with an enclosure. It's not mandatory, but you'll fight lifting/splitting until you do all of the things I recommended above without an enclosure. Another recommendation here is the use of a shell. You can tell your slicer to build a "shell" around your part as it prints which helps reduce cooling and acts as a mini enclosure.

5. The use of a brim. A brim alloys a bigger footprint on the part which will but cut off when you're done.

6. Print your first layer with a thicker extrusion width. It's common to print your first layer at 150-200% extrusion width to give the part more surface interface with the bed.

Mods - you should start sticking threads to eliminate having to repeat this stuff.

[PrintGuy]

Thanks for all of your input.

I've read through and tried every suggestion with the ABS.. it still will not stay stuck. I suspect the part is just too big to print ABS reliably. As I type this I'm printing it with PLA instead. My concern with PLA is that it might not be strong enough... I'll find out soon.

In addition to being strong enough I will need to find an adhesive that will make a strong air tight bond to other ABS parts.....

That said, does anyone have a suggestion for a proper adhesive to glue PLA to ABS?

[3dex ltd]

A great adhesive for PLA to ABS is a contact adhesive such as UHU. UHU also make a glue called UHU Por which works really well for us. Apply to both parts and then leave for a few mins and then push together and after a few hours it's an incredibly strong bond!