Heated Bed Voltage

[ReefBum]

I need to order new heated bed for my CTC.
I have seen them listed as Flashforge/Wanhoa/CTC in both 12v and 24v

Voltage CTC uses?

Where is the best place to buy in US?
Is there one available in 300mm x 200mm size to "upgrade" the build area?

[TiredJuan]

If you look at the bottom of the heated bed, near the connector pins, it should read the pinout. Mine says it's 24v, but it also has a 5v input as well (I assume this is for the thermistor?) Check your PSU (Power Supply Unit), it should have a 12v or 24v sticker on it, the heated bed should be compatible with the PSU. As for available sizes: There are many "upgrade" heaters, eBay is a great place to look, but YMMV as far as quality is concerned. There's also the issue of mounting holes. I'm not experienced with upgrading these parts, hopefully someone else will chime in.

[EagleSeven]

I need to order new heated bed for my CTC.
I have seen them listed as Flashforge/Wanhoa/CTC in both 12v and 24v

Voltage CTC uses?

Where is the best place to buy in US?
Is there one available in 300mm x 200mm size to "upgrade" the build area?

Bed of CTC-Bizer is 24 volt.

I've not seen a direct replacement part for sale anywhere, for heater plate .
What is wrong with the one you have ?
Can yours Not be Repaired ??

( increasing bed size can be done with printable extenders and larger glass-plate )

[ReefBum]

I'm using clips and glass now, I just thought if I was replacing the bed I would see if there was a 300mm x 200mm replacement available.

[EagleSeven]

Oh okay, I think you will need to modify a bed plate assembly designed for a different printer to do that.
(don't forget that the slicer software, you use, must have settings for the larger size, to use added space)

Added bed area will not help if Slicer can not see it !

BTW: you should use Aqua-net spray to attach glass to aluminum-plate.
Those Clips can really 'Get-in-the Way' !

[ReefBum]

I use Simplify3D for slicer which supports larger build plates.
I use 8 x 10 glass plate with clips now but my bed is warped about 0.13 which makes it hard to print anything.

[EagleSeven]

I use Simplify3D for slicer which supports larger build plates.
I use 8 x 10 glass plate with clips now but my bed is warped about 0.13 which makes it hard to print anything.

Wow, I wonder if you could use a Belt-Sander to flatten it out ?
If it's always higher in the Middle then sanding it may work ?
( would be more difficult if lower in middle)

Note: Adding glass completely eliminated the small warp in ours
since the Aqua-net filled in the low areas
and I did Not clamp it tight enough to warp glass while it was drying

[bigo93]

I thought the point of a glass bed was to make it easily removable and replaceable so you can start a second print whilst the first dries, as well as saving time between prints when you have to clean the first glass plate...

[ReefBum]

You are correct, however with the printed glass clips the heater does not cover the entire bottom of larger glass (I'm using 300mm x 200mm glass) causing temp fluctuations along the build surface.
I'm looking to continue to use glass for quick print changes, however as I have to purchase a new heated bed anyway, I'm trying to find one that would heat the entire 300 x 200 build area.

[bigo93]

Well looks like there are heatbeds out there, question is if they are compatible with the CTC printer.

Seem like instead of a simple connector you have to manually solder the wires on the bed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-200-3-0-...UAAOSwYaFWe2S5