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  1. #11
    What do you mean? I didn't do anything special, just the usual thing, like filament type, nozzle 0.4mm.

    And to be honest i don't have a case for my printer, i'm about to build one as my heated bed cant go over 100 celsius.

  2. #12
    Staff Engineer LambdaFF's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
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    Hi Whaitey, I think that while the advice of Lucky is good, you need to be a bit more systematic about all this.

    I would suggest you to :
    - first set precisely your Z0 gap, because otherwise any test you do on the flow rate will be biased by this. Do you have calibrated shims ?
    - then set your flow rate right : there are tutorials for that.
    - additionnaly, I would recommend checking your filament diameter, to be sure.

    have a nice day

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Whaitey View Post
    What do you mean? I didn't do anything special, just the usual thing, like filament type, nozzle 0.4mm.

    And to be honest i don't have a case for my printer, i'm about to build one as my heated bed cant go over 100 celsius.
    Sounds like you haven't calibrated it. Go to the flashforge forum and look fir the stickied Sailfish manual thread. In the first post is a link to the manual. It will be very helpful, even if you aren't running Sailfish. Especially chapter 5!


  4. #14
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    or you could simply go back to printing with pla :-)

    Why struggle unnecessarily with abs when pla just works ?

  5. #15
    yes, but i got 4 abs packs and my pla is gone, so i have to print with abs, and to be honest, i want to try every single filament i can. i will try that manual, thanks for the info

  6. #16
    Calibration should be done regardless of the filament you use. And should be done for each material change as different materials have different values.


  7. #17
    Okay, i removed that thermal thing so there is only plastic, i applied hairspray, heated bed to 100, nozzle to 240, levelled my bed, tried to print, then i saw that the filament is just making a huge blub on the nozzle, so i decraised the distance, it didnt work, i then raised the distance, same again, didnt work, so now i'm at the point where the printer cant even print the first layer, because its always making a blub on my nozzle. My personal opinion is that my extruder fan is working at 100% and its making the filament dry so fast. i put my hand under the fan and i can feel the wind the fan makes, and if i extrude some material i can clearly see that the fan can blow my material a bit. Any tips?

  8. #18
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Sep 2014
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    For ABS you need to turn the fan off (0 %) during the whole print. The fan is only usefull for PLA as it needs one. ABS definitely not as it has a very high glass point around 105 C (this is where it becomes rubbery) and the fan will cool it to below this way too fast.

    As to the levelling, are you using a piece of paper to gauge the distance?

  9. #19
    i actually have a feeler gauge, so i'm using that 0.1mm to level. My 12V fan is mad, if you are saying that i need to unplug that then ok.

  10. #20
    Technologist LuckyImperial's Avatar
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whaitey View Post
    i actually have a feeler gauge, so i'm using that 0.1mm to level. My 12V fan is mad, if you are saying that i need to unplug that then ok.
    With ABS it's a safe bet to just unplug your fan. However, you can easily disable cooling in Slic3r which accomplishes the same thing.

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