New CTC Owner

[bigo93]

Nope, just uninstalled and reinstalled makerbot desktop, still no options for layerWidth anywhere.....
version is makerbot desktop beta v 3.8.1.231

Which is strange becuase when you search google, the makerbot website itself does list these as options, but then why are they not in the program???

Only thing I can do is add those settings in the text editor and hope it works.

[EagleSeven]

Nope, just uninstalled and reinstalled makerbot desktop, still no options for layerWidth anywhere.....
version is makerbot desktop beta v 3.8.1.231

Which is strange becuase when you search google, the makerbot website itself does list these as options, but then why are they not in the program???

I suggest you use Makerbot version 2.4
It is the Only one I've found to be completely compatible with our CTC
(I tried both 3.6 and 3.7, both had problems)

Note: our printer came with version 2.4 on a SD card

[EagleSeven]

Nope, just uninstalled and reinstalled makerbot desktop, still no options for layerWidth anywhere.....
version is makerbot desktop beta v 3.8.1.231

Which is strange becuase when you search google, the makerbot website itself does list these as options, but then why are they not in the program???

Only thing I can do is add those settings in the text editor and hope it works.

I suggest you use Makerbot version 2.4
It is the Only one I've found to be completely compatible with our CTC
(I tried both 3.6 and 3.7, both had problems)

Don't forget that Makerbot software was designed for Makerbot printers, Not CTC printers

Note: our printer came with version 2.4 on a SD card

[bigo93]

Argh, I keep running from one problem to another :P

I cant level my bed anymore.
First when I press Level Build Plate, the nozzles now are hitting the build plate, which is bad.
Then when trying to level it, I have completely loosened one of the nuts and the paper is still running loosely between the nozzles and the plate.

This was not happening before, no idea what to do about it :/


edit

I think I figured it out, the screws holding the Z switch at the back were loose so I think the switch was being pushed up a little before being pushed to stop the motor.

Man I didnt think just setting up a 3D printer would be this much of a hassle.
I mean I had to put the temps to 255 min to get it to extrude, now just installed makerbot 2.4 and it seems fine at 230 degrees again. It doesnt make any sense :P

Installed makerbot 2.4, but this gives you less options from what I can see. Do you have to do the rest manually then?




Well here's another print I've done, using v2.4, still the weave at the top though, with the layerwidth set to the before given settings.

20160119_191634.jpg

And another, removed the rafting and as you can see, the base is even worse than the top!

20160119_205323.jpg20160119_210225.jpg

And this time you can see the slicer has taken some weird paths for the first couple of layers

[EagleSeven]

Sounds like it's still using the Old Profile (miracle.json file) used in 3.8 ?
Make sure to create a New profile, with New miracle.json file, when running 2.4.
And make sure those old corrupted Profile files have been deleted.
And make sure all the missing commands are There, in that New miracle.json file.

[bigo93]

If you find a way to actually use that extra space in Y direction, using Makerbot slicer, please let me know.

Seem Simlify3D allows you to create your own profiles.

I've downloaded a "trial" copy and you can get a FFF file from here: https://github.com/djecken/Printer-Profiles

You want the Rep1 and dual.
Dont rightclick the link and save as, as even though it saves it as a FFF file, the contents are written in html so it messes up when you import it.

Best thing to do copy the code, and then save it in a text editor then save the file as a .fff format.
Or download this one I made: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3N...ew?usp=sharing

Then when you click process, open up the advanced tab and in the G-code tab there are options for build voume and offsets. So changing these should hopefully allow you to use the extra space.


Also just printing with some PLA now, to get it stick I still used ABS juice, the print failed cos apparently there are problems with S3D and win10 with the print randomly pausing.

But when I removed the failed print, OMG, the base was perfectly smooth with a glass-like finish! It was unbelievable!

[curious aardvark]

you could just use a gluestick :-)

Cheaper than acetone, and considerably more user friendly.

[d43d]

Have you printed a calibration cube yet with Simplify3d.. I've read people with our printer having wrong dimensions on prints... About to try Simplify3d myself now...

[bigo93]

No I've not gone into fine calibration yet, my last cube was 19.7mm, which is close enough whilst I get other bits set up.

For example, I installed those spring arm extruders yesterday, tried to do a print today and the bloody thing will not extrude. It wont even feed the filament.

It goes in, it starts to extrude but then a second later it just stops.
I think it may be a tension issue, but the only way I can think to increase the tension would be a longer stiffer spring.

i did get a print to start by pulling the arm up myself, but then the stepper motor started clicking as if the nozzle was jammed, but it did extrude.
At least for a few minutes before it stopped again.

[EagleSeven]

i did get a print to start by pulling the arm up myself, but then the stepper motor started clicking as if the nozzle was jammed, but it did extrude.
At least for a few minutes before it stopped again.

Sounds like the motor does not have enough Torque ?
Maybe the Voltage from Mobo to motor is Too Low ?
Is voltage adjustable on your Mobo ?
( there are videos Online about adjusting that voltage )