New CTC Owner

[EagleSeven]

I've tried to print the bed supports with ABS, I assume PLA wont be good to use seeing as these will be right next to the heated bed and could melt if PLA right?

Having some issues with it sticking to the masking tape, couldnt find painters tape.
Even used some generic glue on the masking tape, still comes off s little.

As you can see in pic, this print failed at 80% due to glitch in SD card. But the circular hole isnt perfect, it's more of an oval.

Any ideas why? Is a track loose and need tightening?





Attachment 8120

Hi, I use PLA for both, the object and supports, much easier that way.

I don't think the glass-supports I printed had oval holes and gaps around them, like that,
but I did use large flat washers there, for better support,
since the small screw-heads tend to crush the plastic.
I'm Not sure why that would happen only at the hole,
but I think it would have to be something wrong in software (slicer) file.

When you get a glass-plate and Aqua-net All the sticking problems will be gone !

Have you not been able to connect a computer directly to printer, thru a USB port ??
Everything is much easier that way, instead of using a SD.

[bigo93]

Oh I thought via SD was better as you dont have to worry about random disconnects.

Got another test print going, but again, the ABS is not sticking well to the plate.
Even used double sided sellotape on it! The corners are still coming off :'(

Gonna let this print anyway, and hope the slight warping doesnt affect them.
And if they dont then hopefully glass plate will work and I can reprint them after.

Also I am using the Markerware software I doubt it will have problems slicing.
Maybe it's the firmware on the CTC, it's still on the one it came with, v1.0; maybe if I upgrade it to sailfish it would help? But read mixed views on upgrading it with a couple people saying they have bricked theirs...

And thanks for the reply, wasnt expecting any for a couple day, Merry Xmas!

But also wont the PLA melt or warp slightly if you use it to make these bed extenders?

[EagleSeven]

Oh I thought via SD was better as you dont have to worry about random disconnects.

But also wont the PLA melt or warp slightly if you use it to make these bed extenders?

I used a SD card only once, to see if it worked,
and have been using USB ever since, It works great for us.
(Much easier to send Slicer files thru USB, with no need to change file types)

No, We never get the bed-temp above 100C, usually at about 80C max on top of glass, and they will not melt at that temp.
I don't think the extenders ever get to that temp though.
(Have not seen any warping of bed-extenders either)

Since the glass is mainly held in place by the hair-spray
all the extenders do is keep it positioned while spray is drying
and to keep fingers away from sharp glass corners.

[bigo93]

Wait do I need one of these if I add a glass sheet on bed?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911247



Also only took the entire day with like half a dozen failed prints but finally got it done.

20151226_033154.jpg

[EagleSeven]

Wait do I need one of these if I add a glass sheet on bed?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911247



Also only took the entire day with like half a dozen failed prints but finally got it done.

20151226_033154.jpg

We did not need that Adapter at thiniverse, I'm really not sure what it is For ??

Your extenders look Great !

But I would have rotated the position of them to make the bed much longer in X, less in Y direction, as per my description.
Since there is a bed size selection in Makerbot slicer that uses that area in X direction but not much in Y.
In my description I gave measurements of glass as 11 1/8" X 6 7/8",
which fits, if brackets are positioned that way.
(We have needed that extra length of 11" several times, which is about 12" if angled diagonally)
If you find a way to actually use that extra space in Y direction, using Makerbot slicer, please let me know.

It appears that you still have the Kapton tape on bed-plate.
That needs to be removed before attaching glass to aluminum-plate,
using Aqua-net spray, for good heat transfer.
(tape will act as an Insulator and effects bed-leveling adjustment also)

[bigo93]

I used a 10x8 sheet of glass from a picture frame. to get the 11x6 one I'd have to get a larger piece and have it cut.

So you need to spray the glass on the bottom and the top then? I thought just the top to help the plastic stick.

That adapter goes behind the CTC sign part on the Z axis.
So if you end up getting a thick piece of glass you place that and the appropriate height spacer so when the bed comes up, the spacer hits the Z axis switch first to prevent the nozzles from smashing through the glass plate.

The glass I have is pretty thin so like yours I didnt need the adapter.


Just done first print with the glass plate.
Extruder guide, but again issues with the holes. and as you can see from the top view the column isnt uniform, the base of it gets narrower for some reason; may be due to the hole issue.

Printed using generic glue stick. Base of print is nice and smooth.
Still an issue with adhesion, might be solved by using stronger glue or hairspray.

20151226_165125.jpg

20151226_165136.jpg

[EagleSeven]

So you need to spray the glass on the bottom and the top then? I thought just the top to help the plastic stick.

Just done first print with the glass plate.
Extruder guide, but again issues with the holes. and as you can see from the top view the column isnt uniform, the base of it gets narrower for some reason; may be due to the hole issue.

Yes, glass needs to be stuck to plate , so it will not be moving around.
(glass moving can also effect bed-leveling adjustment)
Use clips to hold glass down tight until hair-spray is dry, takes several days to dry completely.
Aqua-net is best for that, since it would be more likely to come loose , than most other adhesives,
if glass ever needed to be removed, without braking glass.

Definitely something wrong in slicer settings also !
That Guide has perfectly round and smooth holes in the one I printed.
Not sure what is wrong but I think I would try a slower speed first.
Or maybe the wall-thickness-layers number is wrong, I would try 3 if not at that already.

[bigo93]

I think its definately the belts.

warping happens even when printing a simple washer.

Created another thread in the feedback section, http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...oming-out-oval

Just need to find out how to tighten the belts now.

[EagleSeven]

I think its definately the belts.

warping happens even when printing a simple washer.

Created another thread in the feedback section, http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...oming-out-oval

Just need to find out how to tighten the belts now.

Do your belts have these little Springs on them ?
(They are on our printer and keep them tight)
If not, you can get them at eBay.

belt springs.jpg

Could the problem be a loose pulley or shaft, that belt rides on ?
Check to see if the stepper-motors are loose at mountings in case,
(I've read about a loose Y-motor causing problems)

[bigo93]

But how do I do that? Cant find any videos on youtube of anyone showing it.

And it did come with one tentioner on each y belt. tried to adjust and now cant get spring back on.
Any tip of putting them on without getting stabbed?