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  1. #11
    Engineer-in-Training ServiceXp's Avatar
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    Ok, So if you disconnect the heater you get no leakage? What kind of heater? Pictures?

  2. #12
    Now I am really confused. So, just to be clear, the printer still works, it is having no issues, however, every part of the system that should be well grounded, has a positive voltage between 1.5 and 2 volts depending on where I am testing. It no longer appears (could have just been a coincidence) that the voltage is related to the power needed for any of the heat elements. It is just there on the whole printer.

    I tested the grounded shield on the usb plug on the RAMPS board, and it was the highest at about 1.97 volts, the aluminum bed was 2nd @ about 1.88 volts, the lowest were the rails, which were between 1.00 volts and 1.56 volts.

    The LCD screen is particularly higher than most things, with just the screws that secure it being measured at about 1.9 volts. So, yeah, I don't know. And it is AC voltage as well, but I have double and triple checked my connection to the PSU, and it is correctly wired with secure connections. Besides, if I had wired that incorrectly wouldn't those parts be 120 volts, not 2? Ugh, This is frustrating. And as I said earlier, I checked the polarity and grounding on my wall socket with the multimeter, and it is indeed wired correctly.

  3. #13
    So, just a question I really want answered. Let's say I did wire it in reverse, I.E. I switched L and N. Wouldn't the voltage coming out of the supply charge the neutral parts to 120 volts? Or is it possible that it would be 2 volts? The reason I am asking, is because I was looking THROUGH the cage on the PSU, and noticed that the N L and G slots are not labeled the same on the inside, as they are on the outside.

    This is how it is labeled on the outside (the part I am supposed to read to know how to wire it)

    |N|L|G|

    and how it looks on the inside of the cage (printed on the PCB)
    |L|N|G|

    So it is either mislabeled, and wired in reverse (if it is possible to end up with 2 volts in the frame), or it is something else entirely.

    EDIT: Also, would the Board still boot up if wired in reverse?

  4. #14
    Engineer-in-Training ServiceXp's Avatar
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    Simple,.... Reverse and test. That is why I asked the question about testing the heater disconnected.

  5. #15
    I am nervous, because I have heard of peoples boards frying when connected in reverse, so if it is mislabeled it will work, but if it's not it could break it right?

  6. #16
    Nevermind, I think it is correct. I read some conflicting information on color codes for ac power. Just to be clear. White = neutral, Black = line, Green = ground. correct?

  7. #17
    So I guess the question is, what do I do next? I can't seem to pinpoint the source of the leak.

  8. #18
    Engineer-in-Training ServiceXp's Avatar
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    If everything is wired and grounded correctly, you need to isolate each component to find the one that is leaking.

  9. #19
    To be honest, at this point, I think the voltage I am seeing (considering the background voltage is anywhere between a half of a volt, and 1 volt, that the 1.5-1.9 volts I am seeing is just induced voltage from the components. I mean, I can touch the frame while it is on and it won't shock me. I am just really confused. I guess it could just be a combination of induced voltage and the crappy OEM PSU that was included with my kit. Do you think it would be a good idea to try out a different power supply, like an ATX PSU?

    I really don't know what to do now. I mean, there must be a leak, because I assume that if it is properly grounded, the voltage in the multimeter would have to be pretty darn close to 0, as the induced energy would still flow to ground, but it flows steadily through the multimeter and so I just don't know.

    EDIT: I did want to add, that by disconnecting the components I did, that the voltage did drop a bit, which is why I think it is induced from the wiring and components, as each component I removed dropped the voltage slightly every time. So, it's not any single component.

  10. #20
    Engineer-in-Training ServiceXp's Avatar
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    Try this...... Remove all the secondary connections from the PSU. See what you get.

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