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  1. #1
    Student
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    Heated bed wont stop heating

    This is a continuation of an earlier thread when my ps blew. I also had to move my heated bed control to D9, which I'm guessing is the origin of my problems.
    Basically, when I tell the bed to preheat it doesn't stop at the desired temperature, it just gets hotter and hotter until I unplug it. D9 was previously used for the fan, so maybe PID isnt supported on D9 and therefore it shouldn't be used?
    What I did in the firmware was change the heater bed pin to 16 (D9) in pins.h. The code looks like this:
    Code:
    #define HEATER_BED_PIN     16
    I also changed the fan pin (previously D9) to -1 which I assume means not used.
    Code:
    #define FAN_PIN            -1
    Maybe someone who has made this change before can tell me what I've done wrong.

  2. #2
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    What is your motherboard type? 33? And what is the origin of your firmware? Again, I can't attest to what's currently in the Marlin repository, but D9 used to be on IO 9, hence the D9 label. What suggested to you that D9 is on 16? There at least used to be a lot of ways one could mess up the pins.h file - you may want to attach the entire file for an independent view of it.

  3. #3
    Student
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    I am using the newest marlin, not makerfarm.
    Motherboard is set to BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB.
    Since fan is usually on D9, and it was set to 16 in pins.h, I assumed that D9 = 16.
    Here is the entire pins.h file, but those are the only changes I made.
    pins.h

  4. #4
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Hpefully someone else can help. I'm not familiar with the new approach to pins.h

  5. #5
    I don't have answers but I thought I would throw in an observation. My printer is powered via a desk hobbyist power supply that shows the current being drawn. The heat bed sucks up 10A all by itself which surprised me. The hotend is only about 3A and the motors are very little.

    So far, I haven't seen more than 15A being drawn at any point. It would be interesting to know what you are drawing as if there is slight short it could be throwing all kinds of things out of kilter.

    And... obvious question, are you sure the thermistor is well attached in the right place and working?

  6. #6
    Student
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    my 40a is probably overkill for any printer
    some people have recorded 12"s like mine to pull somewhere around 30a (worst case) so i am definitely on the safe side as far as current goes.
    the thermistor is secure on the bottom of the bed.

    i think the problem is either in the firmware or on the RAMPS.
    im getting a RADDS board soon which has some higher quality components so well see.

  7. #7
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Feb 2015
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    My 12" draws much less than 30A, I can't remember for sure but I think it was in the high teen range. I don't have my meter here at home but will grab it and check it to see for sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceorange12 View Post
    my 40a is probably overkill for any printer
    some people have recorded 12"s like mine to pull somewhere around 30a (worst case) so i am definitely on the safe side as far as current goes.
    the thermistor is secure on the bottom of the bed.

    i think the problem is either in the firmware or on the RAMPS.
    im getting a RADDS board soon which has some higher quality components so well see.
    Last edited by Chadd; 12-18-2015 at 06:57 PM.

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