Flashforge Creator Pro - Extruder is loose?

[Stigern]

I remove my nozzles, and was about to replace my PTFE tubing inside. but I notice the heater-block is loose from the cylinder which I guess it's attached to somehow.

I can't figure out how its held in place?

Added picture for better explanation.20151010_124157.jpg

[EagleSeven]

I remove my nozzles, and was about to replace my PTFE tubing inside. but I notice the heater-block is loose from the cylinder which I guess it's attached to somehow.

I can't figure out how its held in place?

Added picture for better explanation.20151010_124157.jpg

The Nozzle is what tightens up that assembly.
The nozzle screws in until it hits the tube (cylinder),
preventing Both from turning in the block.

The Block should be slightly loose on tube until the nozzle is installed.

So, how far the tube is screwed into block controls how far the nozzle will screw into block,
before they touch.
Both seated together (touching) prevents any filament getting into threads of tube and nozzle.

[jfkansas]

It is better to fully tighten the thermal tube into the block. This isn't how they ship but it just works better that way. Then you tighten the nozzle to the block/tube assembly. It insures a tight seal agains the tube instead of the tube being loose and the nozzle bottoming out on the bottom of the heater block.

The nozzle will hang down a little further after doing this so be sure to tighten your leveling nuts before trying to level the bed again.

[EagleSeven]

It is better to fully tighten the thermal tube into the block. This isn't how they ship but it just works better that way. Then you tighten the nozzle to the block/tube assembly. It insures a tight seal agains the tube instead of the tube being loose and the nozzle bottoming out on the bottom of the heater block.

The nozzle will hang down a little further after doing this so be sure to tighten your leveling nuts before trying to level the bed again.

Yes, that can help keep block aligned but Some tubes have threads their full length, not just at bottom end.
So if you have that type, you can Not first tighten tube into block.

And first tightening in the tube Greatly changes the nozzle height,
if you have the non-full thread type .
Which requires changing position of everything.

.GuideTubes.jpg
Click picture for larger view:

Note: the full-thread type are designed so set-screw fits into the area with no threads
with makes them more stable and will not slip up&down

[Mjolinor]

I reckon the waist is part of the thermal barrier, the set screw tightens against the threads. If your set screw is in the waist then you have it upside down.

[EagleSeven]

I reckon the waist is part of the thermal barrier, the set screw tightens against the threads. If your set screw is in the waist then you have it upside down.

It works Great 'up-side-down' !
Try it, you will Like it !
I really think that's the way it was designed, for set-screw to go in waist.

[Mjolinor]

Well 3d printing is certainly still in the "suck it and see" arena so whatever works is good.

I am sure that sometime in the future a law will be enforced making it illegal to do it one way or the other so people don't have to think about the consequences but for now, at least, we get to decide.

[EagleSeven]

well 3d printing is certainly still in the "suck it and see" arena so whatever works is good.

i am sure that sometime in the future a law will be enforced making it illegal to do it one way or the other so people don't have to think about the consequences but for now, at least, we get to decide.

lol ! ! ! Freedom ! ! !

[jfkansas]

Is that how the CTC is? Last I checked this is the FlashForge forum and for the past 1.5 years all of their thermal tubes are smooth. So that is what I am referring to... This also covers all MonoPrice, Wanhao, MicroCenter PowerSpec, Dremel, Flashforge Dreamer and Creator Pro, etc... I was pretty sure the CTC had the same style as the others but maybe not. In the case of a threaded thermal barrier you still don't want to tighten the nozzle all the way into the block. You should tighten the nozzle into the block then unscrew it 1/2 turn, then tighten the threaded thermal barrier to the nozzle. Then with the hot end installed, heat it up and snug up the nozzle a little more.

Yes, that can help keep block aligned but Some tubes have threads their full length, not just at bottom end.
So if you have that type, you can Not first tighten tube into block.

And first tightening in the tube Greatly changes the nozzle height,
if you have the non-full thread type .
Which requires changing position of everything.

.GuideTubes.jpg
Click picture for larger view:

Note: the full-thread type are designed so set-screw fits into the area with no threads
with makes them more stable and will not slip up&down

[EagleSeven]

I think the all-thread tube would be considered a Up-grade design.
I changed to them when I saw that they would be easier to position than the old design.

On another 3D forum website several said they had changed to that type, so I got some also.
They are available at eBay.
I think the newer model CTCs come with that type but not sure how many new makes and models do.

I agree completely on the installation procedure.