MakerFarm Prusa i3v 10" - And So It Begins!

[tfast500]

I run PLA at 225° nozzle and 70° bed temps and I use purple glue sick on the glass. I have a Hexagon hotend but I am sure the temps would be similar.

One of the biggest battles I fought early on with my 12" printer was inconsistent Z axis homing, I would have to mess with it sometimes 4 or 5 times before I could get a good first layer on a print. Looking back on it now the Z homing issues I experienced were due to the print bed physically moving during the heat cycle. This was caused by the wooden Y bed itself warping and by the heat bed surface warping up and down as the heat relay turned on and off.

As has been mentioned your first layer needs to be flat and stuck down well, without that good first layer the rest of your print will suffer.

Been awhile since I posted. I have printed so many cool things. I love this thing, however I am fighting a few issues but the main one is the z axis homing as mentioned above. It's driving me nuts every time I go to print its at a different hight. I would like to upgrade to an automatic leveling or figure a way to fix. I am pretty sure its a number of things. The end stop probably the main issue being it has some play in it. I need to put a new zip tie or redesign it altogether.

[printbus]

...The end stop probably the main issue being it has some play in it. I need to put a new zip tie or redesign it altogether.

Yeah, you really need to ditch that zip tie if the current build guides are still suggesting that as the mounting method. A better method is to use bolts and nuts to mount the switches to the wood brackets. Switches can vary, but mine were sized for M2.5 screws. Others have drilled out the holes in the switch a bit to fit what hardware they had. Countersink the back side of the bracket so the screw head recesses into the wood. Put the nuts on the exposed side of the switch.

Pics from my install are in this post - Enstop Installation

[tfast500]

Yeah, you really need to ditch that zip tie if the current build guides are still suggesting that as the mounting method. A better method is to use bolts and nuts to mount the switches to the wood brackets. Switches can vary, but mine were sized for M2.5 screws. Others have drilled out the holes in the switch a bit to fit what hardware they had. Countersink the back side of the bracket so the screw head recesses into the wood. Put the nuts on the exposed side of the switch.

Pics from my install are in this post - Enstop Installation

This is precisely what i am looking for thanks!