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  1. #71
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Quote Originally Posted by rhonal89 View Post
    Also are you telling me ever since you got the printer with the heatbed on your cube would come out like the middle cube.

    Yes, but it was actually worse than that before I replaced my Y bed with aluminum.

  2. #72
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    138
    Thank You!!! Hope this helps you greatly. And those upgrade you meaning on doing. Will truly helps when you get there.

  3. #73
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    138
    Wow I get your frustration is you were getting prints like that. Hope this takes care of all those layer problems. And the sound of it if it was because of the heatbed this should help out alot. And now that you say it. I think is the 6mm thick glass that is helping me with those kind of print. Reason is when I have my heat bed temp at 110 I can see it bow below my glass.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chadd View Post
    Yes, but it was actually worse than that before I replaced my Y bed with aluminum.

  4. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by Chadd View Post
    Yes, but it was actually worse than that before I replaced my Y bed with aluminum.
    I had this same exact issue with my 12" and found a quick solution was to shim up the middle of the bed with cork to remove any room for warping. Not the best solution since it made leveling much more complicated. So I am very excited to see your results and can't wait to try it myself. Great job Chadd!

  5. #75
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211

  6. #76
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    You enter them in your Configuration.h file. You also need to enable PID for the heat bed. I started a separate thread on the PID setup.

    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...7322#post67322

    Quote Originally Posted by lakester View Post
    Thx for sharing your research and results Chadd.

    When you did the PID calibration..., how did you store the calibration numbers? In the firmware? NVRAM? ???

  7. #77
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    371
    So I think I too will be making the ssr switch. While I am at it I also think my power supply may need an upgrade. What are you using?

    i did not get the unit called out from open builds as they were out of stock. My supply came from Amazon. As stated before, my voltage has drastic swings when the bed kicks in. I'm thinking instead of two supplies I may just get a 40 amp power supply.

  8. #78
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Quote Originally Posted by tsteever View Post
    So I think I too will be making the ssr switch. While I am at it I also think my power supply may need an upgrade. What are you using?

    i did not get the unit called out from open builds as they were out of stock. My supply came from Amazon. As stated before, my voltage has drastic swings when the bed kicks in. I'm thinking instead of two supplies I may just get a 40 amp power supply.
    I am using a supply that i got from amazon, this is the unit I got

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

  9. #79
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    371
    Have you checked your voltage at all?

  10. #80
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Quote Originally Posted by tsteever View Post
    Have you checked your voltage at all?

    Yes it stays over 12V even while printing. Most of these power supplies have an adjustment pot on the to adjust the voltage. I have mine adjusted up to ~12.8 at idle and it drops to just over 12 while printing.

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