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  1. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Yeah I know about the comment, I think the key part is the T0 (right extruder) vs T1 (left extruder). Again, super appreciative of your help, and not at all trying to be a g-code Nazi here. Just something I saw that might have an actual effect on someone who is just cutting and pasting the code for real use.
    Ahh, I guess I just skimmed your previous post, didn't notice the T0 vs. T1 difference.

    I'm not sure if it is an error. I copied and pasted it from bluemeane's post:
    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post81706

    The only thing I changed was the "Move to wait position off table" line. The X-130 caused the carriage to hit the left side of the box. Changed it to X-110 and it worked great.

    The "Load Right Extruder offsets" line is what I'm using and it is working just fine.
    Code:
    M135 T0 ; Load right extruder offsets
    You should play with it tonight and see if it matters what offsets are loaded and report back.

  2. #462
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    The scary thing about playing with G-Code for testing is it has a real physical effect on things whereas most code (that I work with) just is an output on your screen. So if you do something wild like G1 X-500 F9000, it's just going to slam the extruder head into the side of the case (like you mentioned). I don't want to break my machine!

  3. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    The scary thing about playing with G-Code for testing is it has a real physical effect on things whereas most code (that I work with) just is an output on your screen. So if you do something wild like G1 X-500 F9000, it's just going to slam the extruder head into the side of the case (like you mentioned). I don't want to break my machine!
    Yup, keep your hand on the power switch when doing it just in case. Unfortunately the capacitors in the power supply seems to take a few seconds to discharge so it isn't an immediate kill.

    If you copy the code as I posted it, it should work fine... at least it does on my machine.

  4. #464
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    Just tried it out tonight on a print and it worked great. Thanks Kludge.

  5. #465
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    Tried my first dual color print tonight. Was easy to set up in S3D. But there is no infill. I double checked the settings and both processes have same infill value (25%). The print has no infill though, either in print preview or the actual print. There something I'm missing to get it to print infill when using dual-extrusion wizard??

  6. #466
    Hi all!

    Getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on a Qidi myself (new to 3D printing), but have a favor to ask. From the product specs and pictures, I can't figure out what dimension is the width, height, and depth of the printer. Can one of you Qidi owners do me a favor and measure those dimensions for me? For the height, please include the acrylic top cover. And for the depth, please include with and without the rear-mounted spools. Thanks so much!

  7. #467
    Anyone else using PEI as a print bed? So far I've put about 20 hours on the printer, maybe 16 with the PEI. Awesome stuff. No prep and good adhesion at temperature. I haven't had a single print fail since installing the replacement bed. The original blue bed the printer came with distorted above the screw holes after only a few prints.

    I ran a bunch of process optimization experiments with the ABS and a test structure I designed (with print speed, extrusion temperature and extraction multiplier as variables.) Turned out extraction was way too high for a measured filament diameter of 1.74 mm (average.) I dialed down extraction to 0.87 and that seems like a pretty happy and stable place. Slower print speeds got rid of some minor ringing - so far my only real complaint about this printer is the bed platform shakes pretty badly under big direction changes (yes, acceleration is on) but since acceleration is on ringing is mostly is exhibited in infill and square corners, and the latter's artifacts are very minor and can be dialed down by slowing down the perimeter printing speed.

  8. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by smythe View Post
    Getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on a Qidi myself (new to 3D printing), but have a favor to ask. From the product specs and pictures, I can't figure out what dimension is the width, height, and depth of the printer. Can one of you Qidi owners do me a favor and measure those dimensions for me? For the height, please include the acrylic top cover. And for the depth, please include with and without the rear-mounted spools. Thanks so much!
    Here are the approximate measurements (inches):

    Width = 20.5" including the handles, 19" without
    Height = 22.5" including top cover, 15" without
    Depth = 17.5" including spools & front handle, 13.25" without

  9. #469
    Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
    Here are the approximate measurements (inches):

    Width = 20.5" including the handles, 19" without
    Height = 22.5" including top cover, 15" without
    Depth = 17.5" including spools & front handle, 13.25" without
    Perfect, thanks Kludge! It's taller than I was expecting, might have to think of a different spot to put it, hmmm...

  10. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by smythe View Post
    Perfect, thanks Kludge! It's taller than I was expecting, might have to think of a different spot to put it, hmmm...
    Worth noting that for PLA and other soft, high viscosity material your gonna want to run with the top off (and front door open). You will want the top on for ABS and anything harder, so that height still come into play, just throwing it out there.

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