Close



Page 259 of 411 FirstFirst ... 159209249257258259260261269309359 ... LastLast
Results 2,581 to 2,590 of 4110
  1. #2581
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by caall99 View Post
    I print with 100% extrusion multiplier and 100% first layer height for all my prints. Most important part is to dial in your initial z-gap or z-offset for the first layer. This is all dependent on the thickness of your business card or piece of paper you used to level your bed. Plug that value in as a negative value for z-offset. In my case z-offset is set to -0.25mm (the thickness of the business card I used to level my bed).
    The initial gap you use for leveling doesn't need to be compensated for in Z height. Most of that initial gap is taken up by thermal expansion of the hotend. That is as long as you use a thin piece of paper. A business card is 3-4 as times as thick as a 20-24# paper.

  2. #2582
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by suds View Post
    Also, if you notch out a piece of these hinges (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1597284 not my design), you can simply slide the door to the right (or left, per your notches) in order to keep the door held up. I find this is way easier than the add-on door holders. A chisel makes this a quick mod ... or I suppose you could edit the print file.
    That is an elegant solution! Do you ever accidentally knock the door causing it to close?

  3. #2583
    Technician
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    The initial gap you use for leveling doesn't need to be compensated for in Z height. Most of that initial gap is taken up by thermal expansion of the hotend. That is as long as you use a thin piece of paper. A business card is 3-4 as times as thick as a 20-24# paper.
    Good point. It has been easier for me to use a business card over a piece of paper, due to the rough texture of my build surface (buildtak on spring steel does not age well... bubbles everywhere)

  4. #2584
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    That is an elegant solution! Do you ever accidentally knock the door causing it to close?
    Not really. If anything, I knock the whole thing off the QIDI since it's an open hinge design... but just once.

    I've since managed to avoid doing that well enough. Version 2 of the hinge could just let the door separate at a specific angle, like 90 degrees. That would be a cool mod. That plus slide to keep open (could even bias the contacting faces of the notch so it prefers to "keep open", hopefully I'm explaining that well enough.) So many ideas, so little time...

  5. #2585
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    904
    Looking for a z axis shim, what are you guys using.

  6. #2586
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Looking for a z axis shim, what are you guys using.
    I like this one, but I have 8mm rods, so you may need a different version... It is around somewhere

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427953

  7. #2587
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    904
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    I like this one, but I have 8mm rods, so you may need a different version... It is around somewhere

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427953

    I was just trying to print that one when it failed! I think I found one. Going to print now.

    Did you make a cable chain thing for the gantry? What one did you find that worked well for this printer

  8. #2588
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    I was just trying to print that one when it failed! I think I found one. Going to print now.

    Did you make a cable chain thing for the gantry? What one did you find that worked well for this printer
    Failed? Print it with the indents facing upward?
    I am using the Maghold build plate with a combination steel sheet and 1/4" boro stackup, so I've adjusted the thickness of the Zaxis shim to be a little bit thinner than the 6.35mm version. PS: I couldn't find a 10mm version.

  9. #2589
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Failed? Print it with the indents facing upward?
    I am using the Maghold build plate with a combination steel sheet and 1/4" boro stackup, so I've adjusted the thickness of the Zaxis shim to be a little bit thinner than the 6.35mm version. PS: I couldn't find a 10mm version.
    When ya want to upgrade to 10mm rods? I have 3 kits ready. Let me know what color the plastic, I have many ABS colors. :-)

  10. #2590
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    904
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Failed? Print it with the indents facing upward?
    I am using the Maghold build plate with a combination steel sheet and 1/4" boro stackup, so I've adjusted the thickness of the Zaxis shim to be a little bit thinner than the 6.35mm version. PS: I couldn't find a 10mm version.
    I had the nozzle to close. Just did a cleaning.

    I need to come up with a corner clip system for the glass.


    Check out this shim, I just found it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1670502

Page 259 of 411 FirstFirst ... 159209249257258259260261269309359 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •