Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[wirlybird]

My pricing structure is like this:
$2 per hour of machine run-time and $1 per 20grams of material used. That material price is for ABS or PLA, if i use something that cost me more I adjust that to match.

I am guessing you would base it off the build statistics from the slicer? Looks like it may be a good guide.

[Syd_Khaos]

I am guessing you would base it off the build statistics from the slicer? Looks like it may be a good guide.

Exactly.
S3D gives grams and print time, I just use that.

[wirlybird]

I've been busy getting my dry box installed. Here is the new setup:




And the manifold for two boxes (only one box hooked up). I'm not thrilled with how this attaches to the QiDi. Will probably redo it.

Where di you come up with the manifold and the piece on the extruder? Did you make them or is there a file out there? Getting my dry box setup going. Thanks.

[wirlybird]

What extruder temp do you use for makergeeks PLA? I am trying 230 and 220 and not sure what I think yet.

[Syd_Khaos]

What extruder temp do you use for makergeeks PLA? I am trying 230 and 220 and not sure what I think yet.

Really depends on what your printing. I don't do much in PLA, but what I do has wide range, from 190c to about 228c.

If its something 'basic' is shape you can lower the heat some. If its something complex or with very high definition bit then you gonna wanna crank the heat up for the higher viscosity.
The only thing I use PLA for is very artistic or fine detail prints that just wont come out in ABS. Also the food safe stuff...but not by choice. If I could get FDA abs Id go that route.

I don't like pla....

[wirlybird]

Really depends on what your printing. I don't do much in PLA, but what I do has wide range, from 190c to about 228c.

If its something 'basic' is shape you can lower the heat some. If its something complex or with very high definition bit then you gonna wanna crank the heat up for the higher viscosity.
The only thing I use PLA for is very artistic or fine detail prints that just wont come out in ABS. Also the food safe stuff...but not by choice. If I could get FDA abs Id go that route.

I don't like pla....

With the temp up, 230, where they suggest I am getting stringing. I may just not have the retraction settings in S3D set very good yet! Open to any suggestions on settings for makergeek and PLA in S3D!!

I agree that the ABS has been working pretty good.

[DaveB]

Where did you come up with the manifold and the piece on the extruder? Did you make them or is there a file out there? Getting my dry box setup going. Thanks.

Both are my own versions or modifications of things. The rear manifold started with the standard rear mounted filament centering thing from the QiDi collection on this BBs. I would not recommend my version at this time. When I am done I will post it.

The extruder top piece is also a remix. I apologize in advance, but this is a bit of a soap box issue for me. There are a ton of them out there but some are not dimensioned in the same manner as the stock QiDi part. I tried three or four and found a number of ways to create unnecessary issues, some caused by the part designer, some caused by QiDi, some by me. The big thing I wanted was the pneumatic quick connects. I found that I could get the 1/8"NPT 6mm versions of the parts on Amazon / eBay relatively cheaply and quickly. I actually ordered a set of taps that claimed to be for the 1/8"NPT thread, received them and the thread didn't mate. I do not know if the thread is really as claimed, but I have been able to reliably print a hole I can self thread it into w/ ABS, so I've stopped trying to fix it.

One of the major issues I found stems from the manner in which the extruder manifold is bolted down. It's not well constrained to say the least. The rear edge of the manifold is supported on the stepper motors. The front edge is a bit of a crap shoot. The nearest surface that you would expect to draw it down onto is the heat sinks. However, the top surface of the heat sink is too low to normally support the flat underside surface of the manifold. The tallest item in the manifold's path is the filament feeder top hinge piece lever. And when the forward bolt that holds the manifold down is tightened, it deforms that lever. Another thing that happens with this messed up stress is the filament thru holes in the manifold become misaligned with those in the feeder. As a test I have made a shim that raises the upper surface of the heat sinks to be above the plane of the filament feeder lever, and level with the stepper motor's top surface. I've had excellent results with that shim in place. It makes it easier to get the holes lined up, and doesn't deform and stress the the filament feeder. I've not done it yet, but I think modifying the underside of the manifold to eliminate the need for the shim will be my next modification.

[DaveB]

With the temp up, 230, where they suggest I am getting stringing. I may just not have the retraction settings in S3D set very good yet! Open to any suggestions on settings for makergeek and PLA in S3D!!

I agree that the ABS has been working pretty good.

The MG Crystal PLA works very differently from their standard Maker PLA line. I've been running the MG Crystal PLA at 230, while their standard PLA I run most frequently at 210.

[wirlybird]

Both are my own versions or modifications of things. The rear manifold started with the standard rear mounted filament centering thing from the QiDi collection on this BBs. I would not recommend my version at this time. When I am done I will post it.

The extruder top piece is also a remix. I apologize in advance, but this is a bit of a soap box issue for me. There are a ton of them out there but some are not dimensioned in the same manner as the stock QiDi part. I tried three or four and found a number of ways to create unnecessary issues, some caused by the part designer, some caused by QiDi, some by me. The big thing I wanted was the pneumatic quick connects. I found that I could get the 1/8"NPT 6mm versions of the parts on Amazon / eBay relatively cheaply and quickly. I actually ordered a set of taps that claimed to be for the 1/8"NPT thread, received them and the thread didn't mate. I do not know if the thread is really as claimed, but I have been able to reliably print a hole I can self thread it into w/ ABS, so I've stopped trying to fix it.

One of the major issues I found stems from the manner in which the extruder manifold is bolted down. It's not well constrained to say the least. The rear edge of the manifold is supported on the stepper motors. The front edge is a bit of a crap shoot. The nearest surface that you would expect to draw it down onto is the heat sinks. However, the top surface of the heat sink is too low to normally support the flat underside surface of the manifold. The tallest item in the manifold's path is the filament feeder top hinge piece lever. And when the forward bolt that holds the manifold down is tightened, it deforms that lever. Another thing that happens with this messed up stress is the filament thru holes in the manifold become misaligned with those in the feeder. As a test I have made a shim that raises the upper surface of the heat sinks to be above the plane of the filament feeder lever, and level with the stepper motor's top surface. I've had excellent results with that shim in place. It makes it easier to get the holes lined up, and doesn't deform and stress the the filament feeder. I've not done it yet, but I think modifying the underside of the manifold to eliminate the need for the shim will be my next modification.

Cool, just wondering because I like the idea. I will probably leave the extruder alone for now and probably just run long lines from the box to the extruder as I think about a manifold type contraption. I am guessing the tubing is no more than basic ice maker type water hose. For now I am building new spool rollers.

[wirlybird]

The MG Crystal PLA works very differently from their standard Maker PLA line. I've been running the MG Crystal PLA at 230, while their standard PLA I run most frequently at 210.

I am trying a larger print with the PLA at 190 now to see what happens.