Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[sygyzy]

Hi,

How's it feel to be the man​?

OK, I created a new shim that works for 1/8" glass. Try it out and let me know if it works.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427953

Attachment 9023

On a side note, I dropped my glass plate and shattered it right after printing this. Guess that is a drawback to glass. So I'm probably going to go get some glass locally and I may end up with 1/8", at least I have a spacer for it now. I may try a mirror also.

[sygyzy]

This seems kind of odd to me. Usually you want a glass surface for flatness but moreso for adhesion. So you are putting glass on the HBP then using non-thermal tape to attach PEI on top of that? Why don't you just install PEI on top of the HBP? In fact, you don't have to because the blue surface that comes stock from QIDI is PEI already. You've made it thermally less efficient adding the glass layer.

Those of you considering installing a glass plate, should also consider using a sheet of PEI. On the advice of a friend, I installed it, and it's amazing how well it works. I printed a PETG part last night that took the entire length of the bed and about 3 inches wide, and after about 2 minutes of cooling, it just popped off. Preparation is nothing more than a quick wipe with paper towel and alcohol. I've used it with PLA and PETG with never a stuck part.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00

One sheet is enough to do the bed two times.

Cheers,
Joe

[g.gregory8]

Ha that is an interesting post. So you are saying the stock blue layer on QIDI is PEI?

I have found the stock blue platform very good for adhesion, too good in fact so removable is a problem hence the main reason to moving to a removable platform. Maybe the answer is making the stock platform removable?

[jcoahran]

This seems kind of odd to me. Usually you want a glass surface for flatness but moreso for adhesion. So you are putting glass on the HBP then using non-thermal tape to attach PEI on top of that? Why don't you just install PEI on top of the HBP? In fact, you don't have to because the blue surface that comes stock from QIDI is PEI already. You've made it thermally less efficient adding the glass layer.

No, I removed the blue build tack pad the printer ships with, then installed the PEI with the 3M tape to the aluminum build plate. If the blue pad it ships with is PEI, it sure isn't the same kind of PEI I installed. It's a night and day difference in how it works. The adhesion was far too much with the original blue pad.

[dspdrew]

Ha that is an interesting post. So you are saying the stock blue layer on QIDI is PEI?

I have found the stock blue platform very good for adhesion, too good in fact so removable is a problem hence the main reason to moving to a removable platform. Maybe the answer is making the stock platform removable?

I think the platform should just be made stronger, then there wouldn't be a need to remove it at all.

[dspdrew]

How many pages does this threat have to get to before the mods will decide it's time to create a subforum for QIDI TECHNOLOGY printers? It would be nice to have some of these topics divided up into separate threads. It takes me a long time to find some things that I know are here, just not the page they're on.

[Syd_Khaos]

This seems kind of odd to me. Usually you want a glass surface for flatness but moreso for adhesion. So you are putting glass on the HBP then using non-thermal tape to attach PEI on top of that? Why don't you just install PEI on top of the HBP? In fact, you don't have to because the blue surface that comes stock from QIDI is PEI already. You've made it thermally less efficient adding the glass layer.

I think your missing some of the finer points glass affords you.

First off, you should be running glass directly on the aluminium stock plate, should be nothing in-between.
Glass is for flatness and adhesion, but it also helps ALOT for getting prints off the plate...unless you like releveling your machine after every print. The glass can be removed, rather than jarring the z axis trolly to get your print free.
Glass plates are also better for turnover time, esp if you have a way of preheating the plates a bit. Talked to a buddy of mine out in Cali that prints on glass, has a 5min turnover time between prints, because he has heating cabinet to preheat the plates to 80c. Print done, old plate out, new plate in and start next print.
Not to mention cleanup is alot easier, wipe it with some denatured alcohol and its clean as the day I got it.

[rcleav]

I think your missing some of the finer points glass affords you.

First off, you should be running glass directly on the aluminium stock plate, should be nothing in-between.
Glass is for flatness and adhesion, but it also helps ALOT for getting prints off the plate...unless you like releveling your machine after every print. The glass can be removed, rather than jarring the z axis trolly to get your print free.
Glass plates are also better for turnover time, esp if you have a way of preheating the plates a bit. Talked to a buddy of mine out in Cali that prints on glass, has a 5min turnover time between prints, because he has heating cabinet to preheat the plates to 80c. Print done, old plate out, new plate in and start next print.
Not to mention cleanup is alot easier, wipe it with some denatured alcohol and its clean as the day I got it.

Your right hadn't thought about preheating my glass plates.
For the other suggestion from dspdrew it is a lot easier to use removable build plates then to reengineer the build plate.

[rcleav]

How many pages does this threat have to get to before the mods will decide it's time to create a subforum for QIDI TECHNOLOGY printers? It would be nice to have some of these topics divided up into separate threads. It takes me a long time to find some things that I know are here, just not the page they're on.

I would agree this thread needs it's own Subforum now. Never expected it to grow this much when I first posted. But glad it has.

[Syd_Khaos]

Has anyone ever printed with T-glass on this machine?
Have a few ideas I need food safe filament for, and that stuff looking alot better than the nylons that are out there.
If it can print it how does it come out? Can it be sanded to finish, or would ya need to use a glassbead blast or chem bath or some such finishing method?