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  1. #3841
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    80
    Alright, trying another set of pictures here.

    This is a recent print (I didn't have the fan running, which I assume is why we have the melty lines, but ignore that):

    cap3.jpg

    The most egregious problems are at the corners of the hexagons (the curved cutouts) and the big circle. Those are supposed to be flat, and as you can see from the picture, they are nowhere near that.

    What I see in S3D is:

    cap1.JPG

    Now, I'm not looking for perfection here, but I have seen much better, smoother prints from this machine before. So it seems likely to be some obvious setting I'm missing in my S3D.

  2. #3842
    Super Moderator
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    Apr 2014
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    KS
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    It actually doesn't look that bad, just turn down your plastic flow a little. If it is 1.0 turn to .9 or so.

    Quote Originally Posted by Merijeek View Post
    Alright, trying another set of pictures here.

    This is a recent print (I didn't have the fan running, which I assume is why we have the melty lines, but ignore that):

    cap3.jpg

    The most egregious problems are at the corners of the hexagons (the curved cutouts) and the big circle. Those are supposed to be flat, and as you can see from the picture, they are nowhere near that.

    What I see in S3D is:

    cap1.JPG

    Now, I'm not looking for perfection here, but I have seen much better, smoother prints from this machine before. So it seems likely to be some obvious setting I'm missing in my S3D.

  3. #3843
    Super Moderator
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    Apr 2014
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    KS
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    How are things working out on this upgrade Warren?

    I more of these kits available if anyone is interested. Thanks goes out to the early adopters of this upgrade. Dave, CNC Artist and Warren, and me.

    The production pieces are a little different, but functionally they are the same. Due to the cost being essentially the same, the Z guide rods are now 12mm. I don't see much difference in the stiffness between the 10mm and 12mm rods though. Compared to stock, it is night and day, this is mainly due to the precision bearings being used and the custom top and bottom brackets that are 4x more stable than the stock pieces.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warren O'neill View Post
    ok so i sed i was going to post some pics of the 10mm rod upgrade days ago but i just haven't gotten around to is so here they are


    [URL=http://s76.photobucket.com/user/wazza35/media/Photo%208-10-16%208%2007%2058%20pm_zpspjex2ebz.jpg.html][/URL

    also has any one thought about moving the position of the power switch.
    i am thinking of doing this as its a pain to get to the back of my printer to switch it on.

  4. #3844
    Hi guys, I just got my QIDI dual extruder working - sort of. BIG problem: it refuses to use the left extruder for prints.

    My first print was loaded into the right extruder. It printed okay, but since it's the so-so PLA they included it likely needed the turbo fan. I installed MakerBot software, clicked the bottom left menu, selected the piece and selected "EXTRUDER: LEFT". It heats up both, then tries printing from the right. When I select RIGHT, it only heats up the right extruder.

    What am I doing wrong? It will ooze out of the left when I load it, so it definitely works.

  5. #3845
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    904
    In makerbot the printer type should be a replicator 1 (dual) just in case. But really don't waste time with makerbot.
    Go download Flashprint and select the Flashforgecreator Pro as the printer and see how that works for you.

    Ultimately you will want to purchase Simplify 3D.

  6. #3846
    Thanks, I figured it out. The newest version specifically shows "QIDI Printer USB" and the main issue is it doesn't have 2 key settings selected by default. Under multi-material printing, it needed "mixed material support" and "mixed material raft" checked. Otherwise it tries to create the raft with the right extruder but the object with the left. I realized that after I let it print a few mins, presumably after it "finished" the raft with the right extruder.

  7. #3847
    Super Moderator
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    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    904
    Good to know.

  8. #3848
    Looking at taking the Qidi plunge found this one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/TECHNOLOGY-3D...ct_top?ie=UTF8, dont really know the differnts in this one and the tech 2, any help would be appreciated, and do you guys think this one is worth it?

  9. #3849
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    How are things working out on this upgrade Warren?

    I more of these kits available if anyone is interested. Thanks goes out to the early adopters of this upgrade. Dave, CNC Artist and Warren, and me.

    The production pieces are a little different, but functionally they are the same. Due to the cost being essentially the same, the Z guide rods are now 12mm. I don't see much difference in the stiffness between the 10mm and 12mm rods though. Compared to stock, it is night and day, this is mainly due to the precision bearings being used and the custom top and bottom brackets that are 4x more stable than the stock pieces.
    Warrens kit looks great and definitely jfk, I've been printing away using the upgrades and have been happy with the overall improvement in quality of the prints and ease of leveling.

    Currently at ~3700 hours of print time and hoping to get the extruder kit installed sometime early this year.

  10. #3850
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    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    Warrens kit looks great and definitely jfk, I've been printing away using the upgrades and have been happy with the overall improvement in quality of the prints and ease of leveling.

    Currently at ~3700 hours of print time and hoping to get the extruder kit installed sometime early this year.
    \\\

    Good to hear. Now just gotta get some instructions and or video done so can get these moving. :-)

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