Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[Syd_Khaos]

Has anyone else noticed retraction not working with the Qidi default profile in S3D??

Been running the Qidi profile since I got my printer back running. But getting ALOT more strings and phantom towers (travel towers...however ya wanna call em) than before.
Checked the settings and the retraction values are the same as before, but it just seems to not be working properly.


And so it begins......

[JimHs1]

Is there a thread or website that discusses how to smooth ABS? Or does anyone have some quick pointers? I am not talking sandpaper and files, but with acetone or something similar. Or???

[Syd_Khaos]

Is there a thread or website that discusses how to smooth ABS? Or does anyone have some quick pointers? I am not talking sandpaper and files, but with acetone or something similar. Or???

Well, sandpaper is by far the very best way to smooth ABS....IF it's the proper type sandpaper. You want to use higher grit emery based sandpapers. The very best stuff I have found so far is (sold everywhere, including Wal-Mart) 3M emery wet/dry autobody sandpaper. ABS also responds VERY well to wetsanding, done in the same manner as ya would an auto body.

You can also use a sandblaster, but it has to be done just right or it will destroy the print. You can use a very fine glass particulate on VERY low pressure (like seriously low...3-5lbs at the MOST) and very quick passes.

You can use acetone and Q-tips to buff any ABS print smooth. However MANY colors will 'bleach' out a bit using this process, not an issue if ya plan to paint the piece of course. There is also a method using acetone commonly reffered to as VaporBathing.
It's a bit involved so...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biLVyGDvisM

Another option that I have come to use rather alot is heat smoothing. A buddy of mine has a glass shop...I had him make me a set miniature sculpters tools out of Pyrex. I then use a propane torch to heat the tools and work parts of a print. This is not a viable method for working an entire piece, but rather for working details and hard to reach spots. It takes a good bit of practice with each tool to get a feel for how long to heat it. Scraps/misprints are great for this kinda practice runs.

[JimHs1]

Well, sandpaper is by far the very best way to smooth ABS....IF it's the proper type sandpaper. You want to use higher grit emery based sandpapers. The very best stuff I have found so far is (sold everywhere, including Wal-Mart) 3M emery wet/dry autobody sandpaper. ABS also responds VERY well to wetsanding, done in the same manner as ya would an auto body.

You can also use a sandblaster, but it has to be done just right or it will destroy the print. You can use a very fine glass particulate on VERY low pressure (like seriously low...3-5lbs at the MOST) and very quick passes.

You can use acetone and Q-tips to buff any ABS print smooth. However MANY colors will 'bleach' out a bit using this process, not an issue if ya plan to paint the piece of course. There is also a method using acetone commonly reffered to as VaporBathing.
It's a bit involved so...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biLVyGDvisM

Another option that I have come to use rather alot is heat smoothing. A buddy of mine has a glass shop...I had him make me a set miniature sculpters tools out of Pyrex. I then use a propane torch to heat the tools and work parts of a print. This is not a viable method for working an entire piece, but rather for working details and hard to reach spots. It takes a good bit of practice with each tool to get a feel for how long to heat it. Scraps/misprints are great for this kinda practice runs.

Thanks. I use wet/dry "sandpaper" that comes in a role. Its the stuff I use on the lathe to polish metal. I'll try the brushing the acetone on an item to see how that works.

I saw on some website, that I can't recall, a USB powered tool for smoothing a printed item. Was about $10. I see if I canlocate it again.

[RetroCreo]

I just got my tools for flashing my motherboard. Will dive in and hope I come out on top!

Does anyone have the qidi tech instructions they can upload? The instructions that come on the SD that is. I want to confirm what type of printer the Qidi Tech is. Is it a Replicator 2 or a Replicator 1 Dual?

[rcleav]

I just got my tools for flashing my motherboard. Will dive in and hope I come out on top!

Does anyone have the qidi tech instructions they can upload? The instructions that come on the SD that is. I want to confirm what type of printer the Qidi Tech is. Is it a Replicator 2 or a Replicator 1 Dual?

It is a Replicator 1 Dual

[cncartist]

Syd_Khaos,
I haven't upgraded S3D yet so I believe my retraction is still working from the FF profile but that mask looks sick!

Are you designing the parts yourself?

[DaveB]

And so it begins......

Syd, Did you come up with a functional file conversion process? Or is that from a different source? It looks awesome!

[Syd_Khaos]

I did find a program with a 14 day trial that was able to quickly convert those files to .obj format...though about 1/2 the normals (in face mode) are flipped the wrong way. Not an issue really as those files were more for making a life-sized display rather than wearable suit. The helmet in the pic is actually from totally dif thing post. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:260152

Most of the parts are from thingiverse files. Alot need work though, and resized. There are a few things I am doing that I could not find so I am designing myself. Crystals in the hands the will be LED lit (kinda stealing the basic design for this from some of the arc reactors posted), and servo driven mechanisms to open the helmet and move a set of 6 flight surfaces (those flaps I'm also designing). Overall its gonna be a mix and match suit with bits from Mk3 to Mk32 or so.

I should have the helmet together and ready for paint by the end of the week.
I plan on doing a base coat in red and white with a paint called FUSION, it has a very light adhesion promoter mixed in the paint. This is cheap and GREAT stuff for ABS parts. Just gonna be a light fogged coat of that stuff though.
Actual color will be done with autobody paint, and finished with diamond clearcoat.
Gonna use the ford factory 'Classic Hot Rod' for the red....haven't gotten the gold color matched yet.

[RetroCreo]

DO have both parts of the programmer.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s02 withhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00 10 to 6 pin adapter. They are both needed.

Just follow my instructions and get the Path right for your computer.

I bought these and have them connected. I am using AVR Studio 4 but am unable to connect.