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  1. #1911
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    The ones Bethseda was selling with Fallout4 are made to hold a smartphone...the top 'screen' plate pops open so you can put your phone in. There is a (free) pipboy app you put on the phone so it has all the screens/functions as pipboy, can even link the app to the game as use the app instead of the ingame pipboy.
    Since I am gonna be scanning parts from a Bethseda one its gonna work the same.
    However there will be some electronics in the build not handled by the phone...but only 2 amber color LED indicators.

    There are a couple things I do not think will print well. The main things that worry me are the 2 'gauges' (handled by decals on the bethseda version). Dont have a vinyl cutter yet....so probably gonna pull the textures from the game and print on transparent photo paper...glue em on the paint and clear-coat over em.
    Also there are some things I am probably gonna 'fake' a bit. Like the little wire spool on the back for the relay plug. I'm not gonna bother making a little spool....the 4in or so of wire showing is good enough for me. The ejection pegs for the holotape deck.....to complex, to small, to much a pain to replicate I'm guessing. Probably gonna replace that with a rubberband system to pop the tape out.

    If the scans come out good and the first one I make comes out good I may make a few to sell....but SHHHHH....don't tell bethseda =P
    I do recall the smartphone pipboy which looked a little gimmicky but it was probably functional in a lot of ways. Agreed that with an assembly similar to what you're doing it should have more than just printed parts for the features. Sounds really cool and the wire showing should give the impression it's a spool if done properly. Rubber band or spring loaded should definitely work for the pop out parts. I'd be interested to see pictures of all the parts before assembly and then after assembly.


    Quote Originally Posted by Stwert View Post
    Just had my first bash at stripping down the extruder (not really by choice.) wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. But sure enough I've got myself a knackered thermocouple.

    Anyone know of a UK/European supplier for them, the wait time from China is a bit on the lengthy side.

    Cheers.
    Very nice work, unfortunately I can't help on the supplier question though.

  2. #1912
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stwert View Post
    Just had my first bash at stripping down the extruder (not really by choice.) wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. But sure enough I've got myself a knackered thermocouple.

    Anyone know of a UK/European supplier for them, the wait time from China is a bit on the lengthy side.

    Cheers.
    QIDI's ebay page states that their thermocouple is in an M5 stud. Can anyone confirm that is indeed the case? I have not seen any others that use that size stud, most others with a stud mount were in an M3. I haven't a clue what electrical characteristics are appropriate.

  3. #1913
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    Granted I didn't measure it so consider this very unscientific, but it didn't look small enough to be an M3.
    When my replacement arrives (sometime in the next two weeks) I'll get the callipers out.

    I'm either going to build up a stockpile of spares or look into modding that whole lot for more commonly available parts, if I ever get the bloody time to look into it in detail.

  4. #1914
    Quote Originally Posted by Stwert View Post
    Granted I didn't measure it so consider this very unscientific, but it didn't look small enough to be an M3.
    When my replacement arrives (sometime in the next two weeks) I'll get the callipers out.

    I'm either going to build up a stockpile of spares or look into modding that whole lot for more commonly available parts, if I ever get the bloody time to look into it in detail.
    It is 5mm and takes a 6mm wrench.

  5. #1915
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    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    I do recall the smartphone pipboy which looked a little gimmicky but it was probably functional in a lot of ways. Agreed that with an assembly similar to what you're doing it should have more than just printed parts for the features. Sounds really cool and the wire showing should give the impression it's a spool if done properly. Rubber band or spring loaded should definitely work for the pop out parts. I'd be interested to see pictures of all the parts before assembly and then after assembly.
    Yea.....I do not have the skills in electronics or mini-computers to build a game-accurate operational Pip-boy. If I could I probably would....
    So a glorified phone holder is the next best thing.

    I am back home now with my scans, and 4 1/2 pages of doodles and measurments. Gonna redesign the bits that need, hope to be printing this by tonight.

  6. #1916
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    I am back home now with my scans, and 4 1/2 pages of doodles and measurments. Gonna redesign the bits that need, hope to be printing this by tonight.
    How did you do your scans?

  7. #1917
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcleav View Post
    How did you do your scans?
    With a crappy XYZ brand handheld scanner......hence the 4+ pages of drawings and notes.
    this is it: http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Prod...FQIOaQod8DkOdA

    It is kinda bad scanner, but was only $180. It is not very accurate, resolution only down to about 1mm. The software that drives it is kinda crap too.
    But in alot of situations the 'base' it creates is better to work off of than trying to model something from scratch.
    At some point I will invest in a professional grade scanner....but will be awhile, I need at least one more printer and a vinyl cutter first.

  8. #1918
    Hi All,

    I'm new here, and just wanted to say hi. After years of putting off getting a 3D printer I finally decided to start off with the Qidi.
    I've read a lot about them in the meantime so have some "book learning" at least but no hands-on experience. After ordering from Amazon on Friday night, I read everything on here, got simplify3d and the init settings from this thread.
    My printer arrived today and it seems I was fortunate enough to get the new 10mm Z rods and everything else seems perfect. Not even any cosmetic issues.

    I plan to make actual functional parts for my FPV airplanes mostly and was concerned about size accuracy. So as a first print I did a simple 50 mm X 100 mm X 4 mm hollow rectangle in the supplied white ABS. I used 3 top,bottom, and edge layers and 20% infill.
    It exceeded all of my expectations. The dimensions were accurate to within about 0.25mm according to my digital calipers and the finish was better than I expected. I think in the future, I'll use 4 top/bottom layers though.

    I just wanted to say hi and thanks for the good advice in this thread. I have some borosilicate glass and those silicon heatsink pads on order and plan to try a glass bed as soon as they come in.
    I also picked up a Raspberry PI 3 to use with Astroprint. I'll set that up soon.

    Best Wishes,
    Scott

    (And no, I'm not a shill )

  9. #1919
    Now I've printed the top half of a case for the raspberry pi 3 using the included PLA (turned out pretty well even though I had the temp too high in the slicer).
    I got Astroprint installed in the R Pi 3. Which was a bit non-obvious because while the built in wifi will work for operation, it won't for initial setup. I eventually found that can be worked around by using wired networking to get the wifi configured.
    Now I'm printing the bottom half of the pi case in more PLA but at a lower temp and using Astroprint to drive the printer rather than going from the SDCard.

    The only issue I'm having is I can't seem to find the right place to turn on the PLA cooling fan.

    Edit: I got the fan going in the slicer settings.
    Last edited by Noircogi; 06-21-2016 at 11:41 PM.

  10. #1920
    Quote Originally Posted by Noircogi View Post
    Hi All,
    ...
    (And no, I'm not a shill )
    LOL, if you were you would never ever admit it.

    Good going on the boro and rip that "pc glue" off and replace it with the boro.

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