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  1. #701
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    143
    Add KludgeGuru on Thingiverse
    I printed my first part with the Maghold plate last night. I like it! They typically attach a BuildTak sticker to the spring steel but I asked them not to since I didn't want to use the BuildTak. Instead I put PET tape on top of the spring steel. I even sprayed the top of the PET tape with hairspray. It worked just as good as the glass plate (that I dropped).

    Removing the part was slightly easier than the glass since the spring steel is flexible. Oh and I can drop the steel plate without it it shattering.

    Here is what I ordered if anybody is interested:
    http://www.3dprintermods.com/prestas...roller=product

    http://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Po...words=PET+tape

    Here is an image of my print (for my wife)
    20160325_061357.jpg
    http://www.thingiverse.com/make:206985

  2. #702
    Student
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Did you guys need longer screws for either end of the cable chain? What size/type?
    I'm also interested in the answer to this regarding the screw lengths. I've printed out the chain parts. The dis-assembly and installation seem non-trivial. Is it easier than it looks? Does anyone have any specific steps they could share?

  3. #703
    It builds ok, I ran 2 models during the night and they were small but tall models and they came out straight and ok.


    it bangs the left side on the initial laydown of plastic on the outer edge. It delays laying down for about 40 MM then starts and over runs about 40 MM and hit the left side.

    it is like its confused on where the build plate edge is.

    Thanks for all the other tips. its been a steep curve for me but a fun one so far.


    Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
    Congrats!


    You can adjust he height of the nozzles. I haven't had to do this yet so I'm not sure where the set screw is, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.

    1. Level your bed against the lower nozzle.
    2. Level your higher nozzle against the bed.

    Here is a discussion about this for the Flashforge:
    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-across-prints

    Here is a video for the Makerbot:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBVUJpY2YX4

    From those you should be able to figure it out.


    Is this while everything is heating up, or when it starts laying down plastic?


    Try unloading the filament and then reloading it.

  4. #704
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    360
    Quote Originally Posted by jcoahran View Post
    I'm also interested in the answer to this regarding the screw lengths. I've printed out the chain parts. The dis-assembly and installation seem non-trivial. Is it easier than it looks? Does anyone have any specific steps they could share?
    I used the screws in there, but they a little tight, if your able to you may wanna use slightly longer hardware.
    Was crazy easy to install.
    Disconnect the motor and limiter switch, then undo all the wire holds down to the floor plate.
    Slide the start mount over the cables and mount it, I used the lowest bolt the wire holds were attached to.
    Slide each chain link onto the cables and assemble them on the start bracket as you go.
    Attach the drive mount bracket to back of stepper motor (run the wires through it first) and reattach the leads to the motor and limiter.
    Attach the chain to the drive mount bracket.
    Pull the extra wire through to the base of the machine, I'd suggest using cable tie to bunch up the extra with one of the other cable clusters.

  5. #705
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    96
    There are three points of adjustment so when you run the leveling profile from the LCD menu, you have to make sure to manually move the head block around to the different points and adjust. Also, the heads are often not perfectly level to each other so what I like to do is level the specific head I know I'll be printing with. Then if I switch to the other head and I see issues, I'll re-calibrate with that head.

    The reason you are hearing the clicking noise is that you have your head too close to the bed. The extruder is trying to spin the gear to push the filament but it's immediately blocked by the build plate.


    Quote Originally Posted by bombnav View Post
    I just got my QIDI Tech I 3 days ago and today I noticed a problem I hope someone can help me with.

    Today I was printing and noticed the left extruder kept hitting the print. I re-leveled and check everything and now when I start a print the head will start on the plate but will move too far left and hit the stop and bump and grind some.

    Also noticed there is not some clicking sounds when its printing that was not there yesterday.
    Is this an adjustment you can make in the profiles?

  6. #706
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    96
    How is the BuildTak normally attached to the spring steel? Is it just adhesive? By having them not install it, did you get a discount? Or did they include it, but not install it on the plate?

    Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
    I printed my first part with the Maghold plate last night. I like it! They typically attach a BuildTak sticker to the spring steel but I asked them not to since I didn't want to use the BuildTak. Instead I put PET tape on top of the spring steel. I even sprayed the top of the PET tape with hairspray. It worked just as good as the glass plate (that I dropped).

  7. #707
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    96
    I know this should be super simple but I want to be prepared before I start taking stuff apart so I hope you don't mind more questions.

    Which part exactly are you using for the start (bottom) and end (by motor) connections? I printed everything and I can see at least 2 for each end.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:124700/#files

    Do you know what sizes screws are used for the motor end?

    Lastly, I am confused about the connection point at the start. The only screw I see that low is one of the weird ones where a little wire hold is attached to the case with a tiny bit of threads sticking out and a nut. Is that the one you are using? I can't even tell where the head of the screw is since it doersn't seem exposed on the other side of the case. I am at work so I can't verify right now. I don't see enough exposed threads that could handle holding the start piece securely. And, since I can't even see how the screw is attached, I am not sure how to replace it with a longer one. Am I missing something?

    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    I used the screws in there, but they a little tight, if your able to you may wanna use slightly longer hardware.
    Was crazy easy to install.
    Disconnect the motor and limiter switch, then undo all the wire holds down to the floor plate.
    Slide the start mount over the cables and mount it, I used the lowest bolt the wire holds were attached to.
    Slide each chain link onto the cables and assemble them on the start bracket as you go.
    Attach the drive mount bracket to back of stepper motor (run the wires through it first) and reattach the leads to the motor and limiter.
    Attach the chain to the drive mount bracket.
    Pull the extra wire through to the base of the machine, I'd suggest using cable tie to bunch up the extra with one of the other cable clusters.

  8. #708
    Ok to be clear the 3 leveling points are over each of the adjustment points correct? I use the business card width as shown in some videos and set each point to the same width. This is after I inspect the heads to make sure they both are at the same height to stop the dragging.

    Also any idea on how to make the extruders stop moving too far left on initial plastic lay down on the front edge of the build plate and banging into the sides? Is there an X adjustment for this?

    Has anyone written a good FAQ for the QIDI that covers all the menu items on the LCD?

    Other than the leveling what other calibrations should I be doing?

    Thanks to you for your help. This forum is awesome.

    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    There are three points of adjustment so when you run the leveling profile from the LCD menu, you have to make sure to manually move the head block around to the different points and adjust. Also, the heads are often not perfectly level to each other so what I like to do is level the specific head I know I'll be printing with. Then if I switch to the other head and I see issues, I'll re-calibrate with that head.

    The reason you are hearing the clicking noise is that you have your head too close to the bed. The extruder is trying to spin the gear to push the filament but it's immediately blocked by the build plate.

  9. #709
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Omaha
    Posts
    274
    Add rcleav on Thingiverse
    Not to offend some of are newer members but I wish we could have a regular forum with the ability to have a sticky page.
    A lot of the same questions are being asked weekly if not daily.
    Until we do the Flashforge forum has a pretty good sticky page that would be nearly identical to a Qidi Tech one.
    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-Creator-forum

  10. #710
    I agree I hate walking into a forum new and asking questions. A sticky page would be nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by rcleav View Post
    Not to offend some of are newer members but I wish we could have a regular forum with the ability to have a sticky page.
    A lot of the same questions are being asked weekly if not daily.
    Until we do the Flashforge forum has a pretty good sticky page that would be nearly identical to a Qidi Tech one.
    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-Creator-forum

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