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  1. #761
    Everything stuck too well to the blue build sticker and it wound up getting destroyed. I got a 1/4 inch borosilicate glass plate from McMaster and now nothing sticks to it. I've tried purple aqua net and increased the bed temp's, but nothing has worked! PC won't stick, PLA won't stick, and PVA won't stick.

    Any recommendations?

  2. #762
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    What temps are using on the build plate?
    Also recheck your build plate is level.

  3. #763
    i increased the plate from 40 to 60. I re-leveled the plate. I'm not sure if the glass would prefer the nozzle being slightly further away or closer than what worked with the blue sticker?

    Right now I'm running a build with pla and pva support in which I put down a thicker wet layer of hair spray. I assumed the hair spray should be a thin coating, but maybe that's incorrect?

  4. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by TankCmdr View Post
    I assumed the hair spray should be a thin coating, but maybe that's incorrect?
    I think a nice thick coat of hairspray works better. Scroll forward to about 50 seconds for a good example:


    Then after a print I would touch up the area that was printed on with a thin coat.

  5. #765
    So I printed a big box with the testing sample print in the SD card.

    The problem now is that it is stuck pretty good. I try to pry it off with the scraper that came with it but no luck. Any tips on how to remove it? Should I heat up the bed to like 50C or something?

    Thanks.

  6. #766
    Thanks for the help. The thick wet layer is working better. I didn't let it dry like mentioned in the video, but it did go through the preheating of the build plate and extruders.

    I'm noticing some curling in the corners of the PLA. Would this suggest that the hair spray needed to dry more or that I need to raise the build plate temp? I think my firmware version limits the build plate to 120 deg C. Probably fine for PLA, but might be low for the PC or PETG I've been experimenting with.

  7. #767
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Actually 60C should be all you need for PLA. I do PETG at 70C.

  8. #768
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    For PLA I start bed temp at 75c. At layer 3 it drops to 70c. At layer 5 it drops to 65c for the rest of the print.

    ABS is 110c, then down to 100 at layer 3 and 95 at layer 5 for remainder of print...I do PeTG same but 20deg lower at each step. This is probably a bit high for most PeTG, but seems to be needed for the clear I'm running.

    Never messed around with PVA, seems like a waste of money to me......sandpaper (and even sandblasting) is much cheaper and same end results.

  9. #769
    Might 60 C be too high and be causing the curling? I'm trying to print the cable chain parts and the large stepper motor attachment piece is curling on the thin end that attaches to the chain link pieces.

  10. #770
    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    For PLA I start bed temp at 75c. At layer 3 it drops to 70c. At layer 5 it drops to 65c for the rest of the print.

    ABS is 110c, then down to 100 at layer 3 and 95 at layer 5 for remainder of print...I do PeTG same but 20deg lower at each step. This is probably a bit high for most PeTG, but seems to be needed for the clear I'm running.

    Never messed around with PVA, seems like a waste of money to me......sandpaper (and even sandblasting) is much cheaper and same end results.
    Thanks - I'll have to research how to adjust the temperature at different layers within S3D.

    When you mention sandpaper, are you using the same material for support and then sanding after removing the support portion?

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