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  1. #4091
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,818
    a hammer ?

    try unpluggong it from the mptherboard, cleaning the pins and plugging it back in again :-)
    If that doesn't work - well you've already got the hammer to hand ;-)

  2. #4092
    Student
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    a hammer ?

    try unpluggong it from the mptherboard, cleaning the pins and plugging it back in again :-)
    If that doesn't work - well you've already got the hammer to hand ;-)

    Thanks, that is on my list to try.

  3. #4093
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1

    Broken acrylic hood

    I purchased a couple of Qidi I 3d printers in late 2016. In the course of moving them around we managed to break one of the print hoods. They're also pretty flimsy and awkward, honestly. I noticed Flashforge has a newer style that doesn't require assembly that just looks much sturdier and more convenient. With that printer being nearly identical I wondered if it would this fit on our Qidi printers? Or do you have any other tips to replacing the broken cover. We currently only print PLA on that printer and ABS on the other. But we're about to embark on a 4H project of building an Inmoov robot for state fair and it would be very handy to be able to use both.

  4. #4094
    Anyone know what linear bearings these use? Based on the measurements I found, they should be LM8S or LM8SUU

    Have over 1200 hours of mostly trouble free printing and am looking to upgrade some of the linear bearings as they don't feel very smooth

  5. #4095
    Contact QIDI and request a new cover. I also have a QIDI Tech 1 but its a 2018 model and the cover that came with it is made of one single piece of molded acrylic. It's very solid.

    Quote Originally Posted by cbruha View Post
    I purchased a couple of Qidi I 3d printers in late 2016. In the course of moving them around we managed to break one of the print hoods. They're also pretty flimsy and awkward, honestly. I noticed Flashforge has a newer style that doesn't require assembly that just looks much sturdier and more convenient. With that printer being nearly identical I wondered if it would this fit on our Qidi printers? Or do you have any other tips to replacing the broken cover. We currently only print PLA on that printer and ABS on the other. But we're about to embark on a 4H project of building an Inmoov robot for state fair and it would be very handy to be able to use both.

  6. #4096
    Quote Originally Posted by wkellyo View Post
    Contact QIDI and request a new cover. I also have a QIDI Tech 1 but its a 2018 model and the cover that came with it is made of one single piece of molded acrylic. It's very solid.
    The older Qidi 1s had 5 pieces held together with M3 screws and was flimsy as all get out.

  7. #4097
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Birmingham, UK
    Posts
    3
    Hi all... New on this forum, as my interest in 3D printing seems to ebb and flow, loosely linked to how many blockages or bad prints I get

    I've had a Qidi Tech 1 for a few years, and had some moderate success with it, however, recently, I had problems with the right extruder... Stripped it down (yet again...) and it turned out to be a fried stepper motor controller module, then a dodgy connector on the stepper motor cable. Then I also noticed that extruder 0 wasn't wotking, and after some probing around (I'm a trained electronics engineer, so don't worry ) seems like the atmel chip has had a couple of pins fried...

    So.
    Option 1 was to buy a new atmel chip, and resolder it, but I was concerned that reprogramming it might be poorly documented/traumatic
    Option 2 was to look out for a new controller board... seem to be few and far between, and expensive!
    Option 3 was to bite the bullet and upgrade the controller board...


    I went with option 3, as I like a challenge... So got a BTT SKR 1.3 installed now, with the TMC2209 driver modules. Still have a few more 'upgrades' to do, as it didn't like the stock thermocouples, and still have a bit of an issue with trying to use the stallguard homing on the board, but slowly getting there...

    So, after the long waffle, just curious if others have successfully modified the base model, and what problems (with fixes hopefully) did they encounter?

    (Forgive me if this is covered previously, but only just joined, and didn't relish wading through all the previous posts for potentially no gain...)

  8. #4098
    Quote Originally Posted by slaine View Post
    Hi all... New on this forum, as my interest in 3D printing seems to ebb and flow, loosely linked to how many blockages or bad prints I get I've had a Qidi Tech 1 for a few years, and had some moderate success with it, however, recently, I had problems with the right extruder... Stripped it down (yet again...) and it turned out to be a fried stepper motor controller module, then a dodgy connector on the stepper motor cable. Then I also noticed that extruder 0 wasn't wotking, and after some probing around (I'm a trained electronics engineer, so don't worry ) seems like the atmel chip has had a couple of pins fried... So. Option 1 was to buy a new atmel chip, and resolder it, but I was concerned that reprogramming it might be poorly documented/traumatic Option 2 was to look out for a new controller board... seem to be few and far between, and expensive! Option 3 was to bite the bullet and upgrade the controller board... I went with option 3, as I like a challenge... So got a BTT SKR 1.3 installed now, with the TMC2209 driver modules. Still have a few more 'upgrades' to do, as it didn't like the stock thermocouples, and still have a bit of an issue with trying to use the stallguard homing on the board, but slowly getting there... So, after the long waffle, just curious if others have successfully modified the base model, and what problems (with fixes hopefully) did they encounter? (Forgive me if this is covered previously, but only just joined, and didn't relish wading through all the previous posts for potentially no gain...)
    I look at mine sitting here for years now doing nothing and was wanting to do this. Get rid of the Mightyboard and use my SKR but in my case I need a new heater board (probably go for silicone pad) since it burned up a long time ago and became wonky at best (thanks to this machine not liking ABS). How did you handle the Thermocoupler vs a Thermistor for the nozzle? SKR wants a Thermistor and the Mightyboard wants a Thermocoupler. I don't 3d print much anymore as I had nothing but issues no matter what I purchased but I would like to get this back up working at some point.

  9. #4099
    Student
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Birmingham, UK
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by DarkAlchemist View Post
    I look at mine sitting here for years now doing nothing and was wanting to do this. Get rid of the Mightyboard and use my SKR but in my case I need a new heater board (probably go for silicone pad) since it burned up a long time ago and became wonky at best (thanks to this machine not liking ABS). How did you handle the Thermocoupler vs a Thermistor for the nozzle? SKR wants a Thermistor and the Mightyboard wants a Thermocoupler. I don't 3d print much anymore as I had nothing but issues no matter what I purchased but I would like to get this back up working at some point.
    It's still a work in progress, but I've got some new heater blocks on order, so that I can use the glass bead type thermistors. Should be here tomorrow, so then hopefully I can get it all back together, and start the fun part of configuring it properly in the Marlin software... I feel your pain about having problems with 3D printing. I pretty much gave up on it too, but having far too much time on my hands during this lockdown/furlough situation made me look at it again. After I found the failed control board issue, I actually bought another machine, a Geeetech A20M. Pretty cheap, and so far performing quite well, which gave me the incentive to fix up the qidi. It was always a well built machine, but I felt some of the components were a bit 'economy'. Having to rip it apart and rebuild pretty much all the electrical side of it has been very useful in terms of understanding how it all works, and hopefully that will translate into understanding the preparation of the models to print too... So assuming I get it all working again, I hope to have better printing succes with it

  10. #4100
    Quote Originally Posted by slaine View Post
    It's still a work in progress, but I've got some new heater blocks on order, so that I can use the glass bead type thermistors. Should be here tomorrow, so then hopefully I can get it all back together, and start the fun part of configuring it properly in the Marlin software... I feel your pain about having problems with 3D printing. I pretty much gave up on it too, but having far too much time on my hands during this lockdown/furlough situation made me look at it again. After I found the failed control board issue, I actually bought another machine, a Geeetech A20M. Pretty cheap, and so far performing quite well, which gave me the incentive to fix up the qidi. It was always a well built machine, but I felt some of the components were a bit 'economy'. Having to rip it apart and rebuild pretty much all the electrical side of it has been very useful in terms of understanding how it all works, and hopefully that will translate into understanding the preparation of the models to print too... So assuming I get it all working again, I hope to have better printing succes with it
    Where did you getthe thermistor heater blocks from as that would solve that issue?

    I was about to bite the bullet and buy a resin 3d printer but the thought that after < 100 hours of usage I have to keep replacing the LCD panel in them I just said no to that. I do not want a LCD panel to be considered a consumable as that is just flat out wrong and not something we should be doing in 2020. What happens, so I have read, is that the UV slowly destroys the panels and they have made better panels to get around 500 hours out of them now instead of about 70h but even then 500h is nothing (the panels are about half the cost of a new printer).

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