Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[jcoahran]

I think if the .x3g code was generated to use both extruders, it would use both. You just can't control or see the 2nd extruder in the current version. Also, the new Raspberry Pi 3 is not yet supported. Soon they say.

[sygyzy]

Yes, Octoprint works. I've been using it for the past week. I just installed OctoPi on a microSD card and put it on a Raspberry Pi 3 with a Logitech webcam. It has some small bugs and limitations but 95% of the features work.

You cannot transfer to the SD card using OctoPrint. But I wouldn't advise that anyway since it's super slow. You should just upload to OctoPrint and print from there.

Does Octoprint work with this machine? I didn't think Octoprint supports the Sailfish firmware. There is a plugin called GPX that gets you limited functionality but it didn't work the way I wanted. I was looking into Octoprint as a way to transfer files to the printer without taking out the SD card. I found out that Sailfish removed the ability to transfer to the SD card over USB, which is a bummer.

I've been looking into getting an Flashair SD card. I'm getting too lazy to keep removing the SD card.
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Flash-...ashair+SD+Card

[sygyzy]

Wait, did you drill a hole through the side panel and run the longer screw all the way through?

It's not a welded stud, it is a screw. You need to remove the side panel to access it. The hole on the case is threaded. See the Phillips screw bottom left of this image.

[cncartist]

Thanks for all the information you've provided so far. I've read every page of this thread and I know many were using glass beds from the start but some prefer or are using PEI beds currently.

If I was to purchase one of these Qidi printers and upgrade the print bed (or supposing you were going to start over), which setup should be chosen for the print bed?

A) 1/4" Glass bed with hairspray solution
B) 3/16" Glass bed with 1/16" PEI layer bonded
C) 1/4" PEI bed
D) Stock, no need to upgrade
E) MagHold/Something different, please describe

I'm trying to decide on how to setup my print bed and your answers (knowing what you know now) will definitely help me out.

[KludgeGuru]

If I was to purchase one of these Qidi printers and upgrade the print bed (or supposing you were going to start over), which setup should be chosen for the print bed?

A) 1/4" Glass bed with hairspray solution
B) 3/16" Glass bed with 1/16" PET layer bonded
C) 1/4" PET bed
D) Stock, no need to upgrade
E) MagHold/Something different, please describe

These are just my opinions, anybody else can call BS on me if they like... it won't hurt my feelings.

I started with the stock aluminum build platform and the blue sticker they put on top of it.
Advantages:

• Cheap, no extra cost... unless you damage the blue sticker and need to buy more. It comes with two.
• Plastic sticks to it very well while printing.

Disadvantages:

• Plastic sticks to it too well. I had a hard time getting the parts off. I didn't like putting that much force on the build platform, I figured I'd end up bending something trying to pry the prints off.

I next tried the 1/4" glass bed with hairspray.
Advantages:

• It works amazingly well on both ABS and PLA. Plastic sticks to it nicely.
• When the glass plate cools the parts come off very easily, some almost fall off.
• Removable, no prying parts inside the machine.
• $20 for glass from McMaster or less if you get 1/8" glass locally. You could even cut your own from Home Depot.

Disadvantages:

• You have to use a shim on the back of the Z-Axis platform to account for the thickness of the glass... you don't want your nozzles running into the plate and cracking the glass.
• You need holders on the corners of the aluminum build platform to keep the glass from moving. I never found any that I was really happy with and I had to keep adjusting them to keep the glass held firm.
• You loose a little bit of build height from the thickness of the glass. If you go with 1/8" glass you don't loose as much but it seems a little harder to get the corner holders and shim for. (Actually I designed a shim for 1/8" glass so maybe that isn't a problem anymore.)
• Glass brakes very easily. I dropped mine and shattered it.
• Heated hairspray kind of smells like a skunk. You may not need it, some people print directly on the glass.
• I've read of people ripping off shards of glass when the plastic sticks too good... never happened to me.

After dropping my glass plate I decided I wanted to try something else. So I went with the Maghold with PET tape and hairspray.
Advantages:

• Removable. No prying on parts inside the machine.
• Flexible. Just bend the spring steel and parts pop off.
• Plastic sticks to it just as well as it did the glass with hairspray. At least PLA does, haven't tried ABS yet.
• No need for extra parts to hold the spring steel in place.
• It has magnets! Magnets make everything better!
• You could buy extra spring steel plates and create different build surfaces for different plastics... Kapton, PEI, BuildTak, you could even do glass on it.

Disadvantages:

• It is more expensive then glass. $50 for the Maghold + $30 for a roll of PET tape + $5 for hairspray
• The PET tape can be a little difficult to apply without having air bubbles. If you have air bubbles you may get small defects in the first layer.
• It comes with a BuildTak surface, I didn't have very good luck with the BuildTak on a MakerBot at work so I decided to use the PET tape instead. If you ask they will leave the BuildTak unattached to the spring steel when you order it.
• Heated hairspray kind of smells like a skunk. You may not need it. Some people print directly on the PET Tape.

I highly recommend the Maghold + PET Tape + Hairspray. I'm very happy with it. If you don't want to spend the money on that, then my second choice is 1/4" Borosilicate Glass from McMaster.

[KludgeGuru]

Wait, did you drill a hole through the side panel and run the longer screw all the way through?

No I had a screw already there. In other places that hold the cable ties there are press fit studs, but I had a flat head screw. I just replaced the screw with a longer one. The countersink for the screw is not powder coated so maybe the press fit stud failed and they put a screw in on mine? Could be a manufacturing defect that was an advantage for me.

[jcoahran]

If I was to purchase one of these Qidi printers and upgrade the print bed (or supposing you were going to start over), which setup should be chosen for the print bed?

Like the others, mine is just an opinion. I replaced the stock blue pad with a sheet of PEI. It's working very well for me. Everything sticks well, and parts just pop off after printing. I just give it a quick swipe with alcohol/paper towel between prints. Good luck with whatever you choose. I've only had it a couple weeks, but the Qidi is doing great for me.

[rcleav]

Thanks for all the information you've provided so far. I've read every page of this thread and I know many were using glass beds from the start but some prefer or are using PET beds currently.

If I was to purchase one of these Qidi printers and upgrade the print bed (or supposing you were going to start over), which setup should be chosen for the print bed?

A) 1/4" Glass bed with hairspray solution
B) 3/16" Glass bed with 1/16" PET layer bonded
C) 1/4" PET bed
D) Stock, no need to upgrade
E) MagHold/Something different, please describe

I'm trying to decide on how to setup my print bed and your answers (knowing what you know now) will definitely help me out.

I have 2 printers with 4 1/4" glass build plates from McMaster-Carr that I swap between machines. One a Qidi and the other a CTC.
Prints stick well and release very easily when cooled off.
Don't really notice a smell from the hairspray. I use Aquanet unscented purple can less the $2 a can at walmart.
I hardly ever have to touch my 2 corner clamps on ether machine and I believe the extra weight of the glass helps keep the build plate steadier.
Having multiple build plates like I do is cheaper the maghold system.

Yes the glass plates can be fragile don't drop one.
You do loose a 1/4" build height. I don't the loss is that big a deal some others do but not really an issue for me I'm building my 3rd printer a Kossel that will have a much higher Z-axis when I need it and yes it has a glass build plate.

What ever you do get removable build plates it will save you from having to relevel the build plate as often.

Good Luck!

[mcfly777]

Does Octoprint work with this machine? I didn't think Octoprint supports the Sailfish firmware. There is a plugin called GPX that gets you limited functionality but it didn't work the way I wanted. I was looking into Octoprint as a way to transfer files to the printer without taking out the SD card. I found out that Sailfish removed the ability to transfer to the SD card over USB, which is a bummer.

I've been looking into getting an Flashair SD card. I'm getting too lazy to keep removing the SD card.
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Flash-...ashair+SD+Card

Yes octoprint works well using the GPX plugin. I have mine set up since I bought the printer and I set up the wecam with a $5 Playstation Eye camera.

Leo

[cncartist]

I have corrected my first post as I incorrectly stated "PET" instead of "PEI" when I wrote this late last night.

KludgeGuru, thanks for the thorough reply and I am looking forward to hearing about how the Maghold has held up over time. I agree with what I've heard about the stock blue sticker setup and might avoid it altogether.

jcoahran, that is awesome to hear! I am leaning towards a 1/4" removable PEI bed for a final setup but may start with your solution first and then the glass bed for comparison. The 1/4" PEI is expensive but if you could send me your specs for the PEI sheet you selected that would be greatly appreciated.

rcleav, I have seen your progress and it's quite impressive with the glass beds. The only thing off-putting is the hairspray but I haven't tried it yet and for the cost factor, it will be easy to try. I will try to make sure not to drop the glass and agree that removable seems the way to go.