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  1. #381
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
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    Omaha
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    Add rcleav on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by g.gregory8 View Post
    @rcleav You mentioned you are using AstroPrint to monitor your prints. What camera are you using? Does the video work? I have an rPi ribbon camera attached and I can take stills but not see a live streaming video. Is there any setup required on AstroBox besides enabling camera via raspi-config?
    A use a cheap Logitech web camera and Astroprint currently only does still images.

  2. #382
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    360
    Quote Originally Posted by bluemeane View Post
    .4mm is not suggested for a machine with a .4mm nozzle. You shouldn't try going over .3mm. If you go .4 it will have some serious issues with lay adhesion and the layers will split. has something to do with not being able to push pout enough material to fully contact the previous layer without cooling too much first.
    How do prints come out at .3mm layer height?
    So far I have done everything at .2mm, but wondering if I could save some time on the brackets and stuff I'm making.

    About to start a print from thingiverse to change a storage tote into sealed reel spool. Saw it and thought it was a great idea. More so because I live in south Texas, on the coast, its always SO humid here.

    edit:
    Would also like some advise about rafting. I have printed almost everything with rafts thus far, as the few prints I have tried without had issues. My biggest problem with rafts right now though is adhesion. The parts are sticking to the raft WAY to well. It wasnt so bad using the material that came with the machine. But having used some superior materials my rafts are a chore to get off. Running at a .18 seperation right now.
    Last edited by Syd_Khaos; 03-02-2016 at 08:20 AM.

  3. #383
    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    How do prints come out at .3mm layer height?
    So far I have done everything at .2mm, but wondering if I could save some time on the brackets and stuff I'm making.

    About to start a print from thingiverse to change a storage tote into sealed reel spool. Saw it and thought it was a great idea. More so because I live in south Texas, on the coast, its always SO humid here.

    edit:
    Would also like some advise about rafting. I have printed almost everything with rafts thus far, as the few prints I have tried without had issues. My biggest problem with rafts right now though is adhesion. The parts are sticking to the raft WAY to well. It wasnt so bad using the material that came with the machine. But having used some superior materials my rafts are a chore to get off. Running at a .18 seperation right now.

    .3mm works great on a part you don't need resolution on. I use them for parts and brackets and mounts and such, things i don't care look 'pretty, not that they are ugly, just 'low rez and blocky' lol

    And The trick with a raft is to remove it as soon as possible and use a removal tool like the one that came with the printer. However if it was a long print there is a good chance the raft is almost impossible to remove, and will require sanding lol. Sand paper is your friend, as well as some really good small snips!

    I have been using PVA for supports and rafts and LOVE it! Took some time to get the settings correct, but once I did it is epic! Just pops off the bed and put it in some hot water and in a few hours a perfectly clean part! I'll get some pictures later today of example prints.

  4. #384
    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    I'm certainly no stranger to tinkering. Me and a buddy even made fully drivable hovering barstool.
    I'm just a cautious of tearing into something I have no clue about. The trolly system is a no brainer, but up till this morning I had very little idea what was going on in the extruder assembly.
    Ended up having to use compressed air to blow the nozzles clean. Gonna run up to music shop and get right sized string and make some cleaners.

    Running my first print now with the Orb Polymer materials...will let yall know whats up with the quality.

    Did you ever print with that stuff from MakerGeeks.com? If so how did it compare?

    edit:
    What would cause the machine to play its tones mid-print?
    Printing some PeTG right now, so running rather hot. Machine keep playing its little music.
    So I think I figured out what the second music is.

    I was watching it print this afternoon and realized that the music played at every layer I had scheduled for a temperature change! So it is when it hits the next schedule temp change for the extruder or bed.

  5. #385
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluemeane View Post
    So I think I figured out what the second music is.

    I was watching it print this afternoon and realized that the music played at every layer I had scheduled for a temperature change! So it is when it hits the next schedule temp change for the extruder or bed.
    That's good to know. At least it is for a reason and not just randomly playing music.

  6. #386
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    360
    Is it safe to run the glass plate directly on the heatplate? Or do I need that blue thing there??

  7. #387
    Question about minimizing shaking of the bed.

    I I was noticing that the bed would shake and vibrate when the printer would get to doing infill and I read that causes the band in and shodows and such. So I lofted the printer up on some of the foam that the printer was packed in so the entire unit can move together and it seems like the bed moves more? But the entire printer also seems to move more as it is free floating of sorts. Is this making it worse or better?

    The he desk it is on is daily solid, burnt mean it does move a bit when the printer really gets going lol.

    I I read somewhere you can adjust 'jerk' so that it slows down before making a change in direction?

    Also so I love how fast hexagon moves speed wise for infill but it also moved really rabidly lol and may be making it worse lol. What pattern does everyone use?

  8. #388
    Technician
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    67
    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    Is it safe to run the glass plate directly on the heatplate? Or do I need that blue thing there??
    Remove the blue tape.

  9. #389
    Technician
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by bluemeane View Post
    Question about minimizing shaking of the bed.

    I I was noticing that the bed would shake and vibrate when the printer would get to doing infill and I read that causes the band in and shodows and such. So I lofted the printer up on some of the foam that the printer was packed in so the entire unit can move together and it seems like the bed moves more? But the entire printer also seems to move more as it is free floating of sorts. Is this making it worse or better?

    The he desk it is on is daily solid, burnt mean it does move a bit when the printer really gets going lol.

    I I read somewhere you can adjust 'jerk' so that it slows down before making a change in direction?

    Also so I love how fast hexagon moves speed wise for infill but it also moved really rabidly lol and may be making it worse lol. What pattern does everyone use?
    You need to reduce the travel speeds in your slicer software. Honestly, I recommend getting Simplify3D for slicing.

  10. #390
    Quote Originally Posted by cjalas View Post
    You need to reduce the travel speeds in your slicer software. Honestly, I recommend getting Simplify3D for slicing.
    Lol. I use S3D already.

    I I have been printing at whatever their default speed is.

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