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  1. #71
    Anything from a local hardware store? What about plastidip or is it too thick and messy? What about reference marks for uniform objects to help align things?
    How important is having the scanner perpendicular to the object to get the right focal point. I noticed on the auto mode, because of the angle the bottom was out of focus but top was sharp. More reason to ditch the turntable maybe.
    Those scans above are amazing though!

  2. #72
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    The best and most easy material from the hardware store is liquid latex rubber, if you add a white pigment it should dry up white, and is easily removable,
    I am going to try that this week.

    I must say the free scans give a better result, and I use the projected cross to keep the main part in focus, but when the final meshing is done, it seems to add all the sharper detail for the final mesh.
    I have not got the idea that there are parts of the object out of focus, and you can always cut away unwanted parts in the segment you scanned before adding to the group scans.

  3. #73
    Student 3DWP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by This View Post
    The best and most easy material from the hardware store is liquid latex rubber, if you add a white pigment it should dry up white, and is easily removable,
    I am going to try that this week.

    I must say the free scans give a better result, and I use the projected cross to keep the main part in focus, but when the final meshing is done, it seems to add all the sharper detail for the final mesh.
    I have not got the idea that there are parts of the object out of focus, and you can always cut away unwanted parts in the segment you scanned before adding to the group scans.
    OK so free scan is sharper? I don't understand the calibration part, in the manual it says if you move the scanner you have to calibrate again. But how often do you have to do this? If you go to free scan you also move the camera so what am I supposed to do?

  4. #74
    Engineer-in-Training Hugues's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3DWP View Post
    OK so free scan is sharper? I don't understand the calibration part, in the manual it says if you move the scanner you have to calibrate again. But how often do you have to do this? If you go to free scan you also move the camera so what am I supposed to do?
    I only calibrate when i upgrade their software.

  5. #75
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    It's not that free scan gives better detail, it allows you to move the object yourself to fill holes in the scan, and will make a better complete scan.

    The calibration part (I think) is to calibrate the scanner with the turn table, so the software knows exactly where the model is, for aligning scans with the steps of rotation,
    this will make a faster scan, but could leave hidden parts of the object out of the scan.

    While I'm doing free scans, I keep an eye out for the cross that is projected on the object, and adjust so it is not to close or far away from the scanner,
    in theory, when the cross hair is sharpest it should scan best, but certain parts of the object will always be closer or further away.
    I don't see less detail on the resulting scan when the line pattern, on the object during scanning, is not sharpest.

    I am really amazed of the detail of the scans, and auto aligning works great.

  6. #76
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    I completed the scan of the Catwoman bust,
    Also did some experimenting with Meshmixer to adjust and cleanup the scan.


  7. #77
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    Marthijn contacted us directly and I see in this thread you guys have been asking how the tutorial(s) are coming along. I haven't been on this forum in quite a while, our silence isn't intentional, just busy in other areas.

    We have been trying to prepare a detailed tutorial with images to aid users in scanning successfully with the EinScan-S, but it hasn’t happened yet. The project we were working on that required extensive 3D scanning is no longer a priority so we haven’t been using the scanner much as of late.

    Here are some quick tips though for those that find them helpful:

    First, don’t rotate around your part if you are free-scanning, this will always give you a higher misalignment rate. Instead, start at a point that is very central to the part you are scanning, then pan at as close to the same viewing angle across the part at 50% overlap as one long pass. When you want to get more data from that area, start back at the beginning before you change your scanning angles, then do the same sweep again. If the data is almost identical in the overlapping regions, the alignment is almost perfect and almost never fails. When changing the angle you are “sweeping”, start at a common point and try for 100% overlap – this is very important.

    Next, to reduce the amount of “stacking errors” there are a few ways you can try to globally align the scans as you move away from your starting point. Depending on the shape, you can start with a textured surface (plywood is great or something similar with non-repeating texture). If you tape or paint the base alignment area with a random pattern of dark thick lines it will greatly reduce the amount of scan data you collect to have this reference object. The random pattern also helps with quick alignment. If you offset this surface a little from your main object, EinScan will automatically remove the reference object when you complete the scan, provided none of the supporting elements are touching both are scanned, and that the reference object has less scan points than you main object. If the reference does have more points, that will be the only part that remains when the project is completed.

    The flatter the reference object with relatively less depth to its texture the better it will work because it can be captured from many angles and still give back very similar data. For example, we tried the bottom of floor tiles and they worked well for that reason. When we placed our scan object on top of that, it didn’t matter how little of overlapping data we had on the part itself, or if it was going around a corner (a difficult scenario that is prone to misalignment) the scan data would snap in place exactly in the right spot because it used the reference surface scan data instead. From our testing though, wood is best.

    Where this all gets very interesting is with a custom little program we wrote here. It allows you to create your own project files that will function based off a set of previous scans. So if you were to take the time to make a nice base scan of your reference object, you could save that as a project and then never have to re-scan that data. Then, once you are finished your project, simply close the program, remove the scans that were part of the initial base prep (if done properly they will have identifying info in the scan file names) and then you can complete your project, or if it is really large you can just take chunks of your aligned scan data, open just that chunk and then only add additional scan data to that region. This saves many hours waiting for alignments when scanning huge projects. We have some really big scans.

    We feel these features should be handled by the software but we have met a little hesitation from the Chinese in this regard. It wouldn’t take much to get much more capability out of this scanner but we are very impressed with what we have been able to do with the investment that had to be made thus far. We have had to try many approaches though, months of effort and testing.

    I hope this helps!

    Best regards,

    Dave @ NERV
    www.NervIndustries.com

  8. #78
    Student 3DWP's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips! So it is ''possible'' to move the scanner around the object? I just rotated the objects and left the scanner in position..

  9. #79
    Engineer-in-Training Hugues's Avatar
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    You can do both, you can even turn the scanner on its side or upside down, I did and saw no differences

  10. #80
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    I am almost done with my first total scan, just the fingers are missing.


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