FlashForge Creator Pro, can get filament to stick to table

[ApocalypseCow]

Newb here too. Just got mine about a week ago but mine came with what looks like BuildTak already installed. I have better adhesion with ABS for smaller parts but have had a few larger ones break loose in the middle of the print. Didn't know if I could use the hair spray or ABS Slurry on the BuildTak to help it.

Sounds like we received our printers at the same time. Did you have any issues getting the printer to recognize your Python download? Fo some reason no mater what version I try it keeps telling me I need to download it when ever I try to generate G-code.

[ApocalypseCow]

umm, how are you using slic3r ?
By default it simply won't work with a flashforge x or pro.

And I never had bad results with tape. But I don't use cheap tape.

The glue stick on pet or kapton tape works well. It can sometimes be a problem getting the print off the bed.

But at the moment I'm leaning more towards how you're using slic3r.

What issues would I need to correct to get Slic3r to work? For some reason my printer will nt recognize that I have downloaded and installed Python. I was able try another run last night and changed the temp for the extruder in the g-code to 230, and it did stay there. Unfortunately I was unable to get a new glue stick so I wasn't able to try that trick, I will tonight, and things are still not sticking.

[Sebastian Finke]

What issues would I need to correct to get Slic3r to work? For some reason my printer will nt recognize that I have downloaded and installed Python. I was able try another run last night and changed the temp for the extruder in the g-code to 230, and it did stay there. Unfortunately I was unable to get a new glue stick so I wasn't able to try that trick, I will tonight, and things are still not sticking.

There are two ways to do this. Either

1) Use slic3r to create G-code, open this g-code in RepG to export it as x3g. Not always flawless.

or

2) Use Makerware/Makerbot Desktop. This export x3g directly and is perfectly compatible with your FFCP.

[Sebastian Finke]

Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying Slic3r is bad or a waste of time. Just that if you're a beginner and struggling with the basics then rather use a slicer that exports programs that required no extra tweaking in terms of formats. My 2 cents.

[ApocalypseCow]

That makes sense to me, I will give it a try. After having a printer for a week and nothing to show for it I am willing to try about anything.

[super-d]

Yea I always keep the hood on and the door shut. I was actually printing covers for the sides and got to see what they meant by warping :-(

[Raimond]

Yea I always keep the hood on and the door shut. I was actually printing covers for the sides and got to see what they meant by warping :-(

Follow the link below to set up Slic3r to automatically send the GCode to GPX and get the required file for your SD Card...
I added a glass bed to mine and I get better results if I preheat the bed for 5-10 mins. This allows heat to build up in the cabinet.

http://www.3duniverse.org/category/calibration/

[Roob0481]

Hey all,
Total newb here. I just bought a Flash Forge Creator Pro and am trying to run the 20mm calibration cube as a first part. I have been trying unsuccessfully for two days now to get a line to stick. I have gone to the control panel and pre heated it to 220 for filament and 115 for bed temps. I am running the ABS that came with the printer. I have calibrated the table with a sheet of paper as well. I just cannot get a line to stick to the table. I have tried Painters tape, but to no avail. ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Thanks!

I use the precut blue Flash Forge bed cover that came w/my printer and it's served me just fine. I've heard they're designed for PLA, but I've only ever printed ABS and it's worked. Also I use RepG or Makerware, again both work well once set up. Extruder temp I generally go 230-235 and bed temp I leave around 110. Sometimes I even start my prints at 100 and then move up to 110. Side note, I also have both side openings covered and even the opening in the back of the "glass house", top cover, or whatever you want to call it where your filament guide tubes go through, is covered also. Hang in there it takes some tweaking and when it comes to settings, different strokes for different folks.

[car3less]

Newb here too. Just got mine about a week ago but mine came with what looks like BuildTak already installed. I have better adhesion with ABS for smaller parts but have had a few larger ones break loose in the middle of the print. Didn't know if I could use the hair spray or ABS Slurry on the BuildTak to help it.

Mine also has that "BuildTak ". And I've been using it for some months now and I had very few failures. We use alcohol to clean it before each print and printing ABS at 250 and 110 heated bed.

[curious aardvark]

sebastian - blue tape works extremely well with abs and a raft.

Maybe not for you - but it does work really well.
I never got abs to stick to kapton.
So just because it's not what you do - don't automatically assume it won't work.

The abs paint works too but it's a real pita to have to repaint the bed every time you want to print. And peeling it off the bottom of a complicated or articulated print is a real nightmare.
Not too mention acetone fumes.
People, DO NOT underestimate how harmful acetone fumes can be.
And also don't forget they are highly combustable.

At temperatures greater than acetone's flash point of −20 °C (−4 °F), air mixtures of between 2.5% and 12.8% acetone, by volume, may explode or cause a flash fire. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition sources and flash back. Static discharge may also ignite acetone vapors,

I've seen acetone ignited by a flame about 6 feet away from the original beaker. Looiks great in a lab - not so much fun in your workshop.
Prolonged exposure can also cause anosmia - which sounds funny. But means you have no sense of taste or smell.

Not saying don't use it, if you want to use abs you can't really avoid it. But be careful. It's not stuff to mess with lightly.