Mount and Reservoir Discussion

[3dspider]

You might try some braided vinyl tubing. The stuff I have is rated for 250 psi.

[Toasterboy]

Yeah, that's what I have in mind to try after I get a sensor (and probably an emergency release valve). Will the braided stuff hold around 100psi with barb connectors and zip ties? Rather not have the connections pop off under pressure.

[erikk]

Maybe you can use a whole system from a car -pump, pressure regulator, injector, relays-

[3dspider]

I usually use barbed fittings and worm gear hose clamps. I'm not sure if zip ties will provide enough pressure.

[Toasterboy]

OK. I found a $1.56 absolute pressure sensor on Mouser that should work. Might be a bit of a pain to mount it. I think I can drill a hole in a PVC Tee joint, glue the sensor die on carefully without clogging the sensor hole (the sensor die is 1.6mmx1.6mm), solder the contacts, and then put hot glue or epoxy over the whole thing to make sure the glue holds. (can then put the emergency pressure release valve on the tee, so it can blow off pressure instead of exploding if the sensor or injector fail for some reason). Safety first.

Working car parts are generally expensive. The injector I'm using is unsuitable for use in a car anymore, but seems to work fine for this. (injectors are commonly replaced for various reasons, so they are cheap used). Not so much with the other parts that might be harvested from a car.

Printed Peristaltic pump+ interrupt sensor and/or a position sensor on the pump wheel is definitely cheaper than the injector approach, and doesn't need pressure, so is also safer. Injector will probably go faster, and hopefully have more dynamic control over drip size and timing, and thus finer control over the z resolution of the prints. Likely more expensive in the end though. Hard to say whether it's worth doing vs the simpler pump hack Rylan mentioned without building and testing it.

Anyway, I'm stuck until I get the sensor in the mail in 3-10 days.

[Anuvin]

I have taken further inspiration from the scientific community and I think that I may have come up with a very effective setup. I have just ordered a 500ml separatory funnel, an 800 ml beaker, and a ring clamp from my favorite local lab supply, KLM Bioscientific. The funnel has a teflon valve, and glass stopper on top, and looks something like this:



I think this tool will be capable of double duty, and will be absurdly useful for separating resin from saline. With the Peachy team nearing shipment of the finished printer, it seems like a good time to start thinking about reservoirs again. Anyone else got any bright ideas for reservoirs?

[Deadbot1]

I'm thinking of custom building my reservoir and build tank from fiberglass. Might try to design them to be a single unit with a peristaltic pump driven drip and recovery setup. I'll probably use a cardboard mock-up as a base and glass it in as I figure out small improvements. Might use a foam core if I decide to try the heated tank system. That way I end up with a nice opaque insulated tank for the build and an easy to heat reservoir.

[Alchemy]

Has anyone tried salted Tonic water in the reservoir. As most people know quinine fluoresces in ultraviolet.

Wondering what it looks like how it effects the print or different liquids effect the drip count.

[rylangrayston]

EDIT:
oops this is a reply to stuff in page one of this Thread... I thought I was reading the end of the thread... oh well there is probably good info in this post any way ill leave it here even if it dosent fit the flow of conversation. :

In the standard build the printer has a total usable deflection of approximately 45 deg, that is 22.5 deg ether side of zero.
we typically print with speeds between 50 and 100 mm per second at a distances of 80- 20 mm away from the print head.
Im pulling all these numbers off the top of my head, but these are good ball park numbers to work with.

That is the standard setup, we chose to have a standard because peachy printer is so so hack-able that we are going to need some "normal" that we can all
refer to and test on to get repeatable results.

So haveing said that you can simply bend 4 wires and make the deflection of the printer 90 degrees, you can remove those 4 wires and get closer to 180 degrees max deflection( which of course is not actually usefully) . This works by decreasing the spring force in the system. Lowering the spring force reduces the speed you can rotate the mirror at ( in a controlled fashion)

The largest build volume we have tested is a printing in a 5 gallon pail. This is just starting to work reliably, and we are still using the dripper!
Sometimes we print at speeds of about 400 mm per second in the 5 gallon pail we can do this because the printer head is farther away from the resin in the 5 gallon pail setup so, each degree of mirror rotation counts for much more distance travelled by the laser dot.
Ether Way the short answer is that we really encurage you to get a standard set up working first, once you have that working you will have the
basic understandings of the peachy printer, then move to pushing the limits with a Ceiling mounted printer, printing in an inflatable swimming pool, and using a pump.

I Still think the speed limiting factor for large prints will be laser power, and the size limiting factor will be shrinkage.
With what we are shipping you can chose to use much more laser power than what is recommended, and there are resins out there that have less shrinkage. So at the end of the day, with everyting I know right now, my intuiiton
is that a canoe is still possible, using 100 dollar peachy printer + a pump or... alot of drippers.

Thanks for the Great Questions and awesome conversation!

[MistahBradley]

So I've been looking at 3D printing videos for awhile, and doing research on other printers, as well as this one. But I am very confused about the whole print bed being customizeable in size. Would someone be able to point me to the correct direction so I can see how that works? I saw the video on the site, but it seems like the printer is a tiny tower with the resevoir on the bottom, and print bed on top (which seems logical). But How can the peachy print on a larger scale if the mechanics are fairly small? Just a very ill-informed, confused animation-student :/