Wanhao Duplicator I3 3D Printer

[tahustvedt]

My quest to increase airflow with the fans I have on hand has ended.
Printer09.jpgPrinter11.jpg
This duct is a smooth spiral around the nozzle with a large enough opening to not stall the fan... I think. The 15-to-45-degree-overhang-test showed great improvement.


Here's the awesome DiiiCooler on the left, with my idiotic 50mm scoop adapter, then my first duct for 50 mm, and then two failed prints of my final 30mm fan duct.
Printer10.jpg
I'm not sure if I can upload my duct to Thingiverse since The DiiiCooler-license says "no derivatives".

[tahustvedt]

I checked the jumper, and it was indeed closed. I unplugged it and went on to tweak the wires a little. I added a small aluminum piece to the heat bed and then clamped the wires in a P-clamp. The movement now stops at the clamp instead of the solders. I also added a zip-tie to the wires where they exit the cable chain on the extruder assembly. That stopped the wires from moving about the connectors on the extruder and such.

Printer12.jpgPrinter13.jpg

[tahustvedt]

I made a felt nozzle wiper for my printer and added a sequence that wipes the nozzle before each job, after warming up.


Frustratingly slow video of the process. I'll move the wiper outside the table later on, but for now it sits on the glass edge.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GuEZFNsIEc

Here's the felt I used:


G-Code:
G0 X30 Y195 Z10 ; Clean nozzle
G0 X30 Y195 Z2 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X90 Y195 Z2 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X90 Y192 Z2 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X30 Y192 Z2 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G0 Z15 ; Raise nozzle



Since my last post I have milled down the aluminum on the bearing blocks to eliminate the belt rub. I'm pretty annoyed that the end pulleys are larger than the drive pulleys. It's just poor craftmanship. I'll probably turn them down to size

[Cyber Akuma]

Wouldn't that shrink your printable area a bit though?

[tahustvedt]

Yes, but I think the Y can actually move more than 200 mm, so I will make a holder for the wiper later on, just off the edge of the glass. The current position is only temporary.

[tahustvedt]

Ok, I finally found a USB cable long enough to reach my printer, so I could change the EEPROM. I added 10 mm to the Y Max (but not print area) and glued a strip on the hot bed off the edge of the glass, and wrote new coordinates, at 202 and 204 mm Y. Works fine. I wonder how it reponds to 100°C ABS temperatures. :P

G0 X10 Y204 Z15 ; Clean nozzle
G0 Z0 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X80 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 Y202 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X10 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G0 Z15 ; Raise nozzle

[Cyber Akuma]

Wait, how were you able to flash it over USB? It doesn't have a bootloader, you would need an AVR programmer.

[tahustvedt]

Magic, I suppose. It's going beyond 200mm now, and stops at 210mm. It stopped at 200 before. I checked.

Some settings like max feedrate, acceleration, jerk and PID can be changed via the control panel, and it says "Store to EEPROM" to make them permanent.

[Cyber Akuma]

What firmware did you use? I recall in the Google Groups someone compiled a version of the firmware without a beeping since some found it annoying, but stated you needed a programmer to flash it.

How were you able to flash it with the reset jumper removed?

[tahustvedt]

The firmware is the same that it came with. I didn't do anything special, it just works, even with the jumper removed. I use Repetier Host to change the settings.