Wanhao Duplicator I3 3D Printer

[tahustvedt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1fOuoy2UU0

The part turned out fine. I also printed the 30 mm adapter since I don't have a blower yet. They are installed and working n printing a phone holder for my velomobile now.

[Cyber Akuma]

I see one thing that will definitely fail if I don't do anything about it. The heated bed wires are unsupported, and will definitely break some time, so I'm going to add a bracket that lets me secure them with a clip.

I love that idea, could you please keep us up to date on when you do it? I have been attempting to perform some improvements on mine.

Also, those cable chains are silly on a small machine like this. I will probably rearrange the wires into braided sleeves and support them in both ends in a large loop.

As I recall, it originally didn't have those, but they were added later due to consumer feedback and issues they encountered, there is actually a version 2 that fixes most of the common issues, though there are still some that exist which need to be addressed (such as the wires for the heating element, see my post above)

pretty sure all gluesticks are the same :-)

Everyone seems to suggest the purple gluestick from Elmer's particularly...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1fOuoy2UU0

The part turned out fine. I also printed the 30 mm adapter since I don't have a blower yet. They are installed and working n printing a phone holder for my velomobile now.

Still kinda undecided on which cooler to go with.

I had actually printed out several coolers and tested how well they worked with the stock fan, and from my testing version 1.6 of TiDiPi's cooler seems to circulate air the best:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:881566

However, then a new pronged non-circular design came up by Delukart:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1013770

I was told that this pronged-shape makes more sense than a circular one since it just needs to send air sideways across the recently printed part, not in a circle everywhere, and it's internal structure provides far better airflow. Downside is the stock fan doesn't work with it and you need to get a blower-type fan.

Before I could even get around to printing it however, this new circular version by Pawpawpaw85 appeared:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

Now I am at a loss at which one to go with. I can't even print the Delukart version yet because it's too big for my current printer so I will need to finish working on my DI3 first before I can print it, and even if I did, not sure which design would be more efficient out of those three.

[tahustvedt]

Mine is the second generation upgraded version.

I looked at those ducts myself. Spent lots of time on Thingiversere. I want to make my own duct eventually. The non-circular one is interesting looking. It could be made so that the nozzle is visible too. The circular ones hide the action too well.

[tahustvedt]

Benchy ABS. 60 mm/s. Lots of echoes, but still pretty good IMHO.

Printer06.jpgPrinter07.jpg

I turned a spare 0.4mm brass nozzle in my lathe to see if I could do it. It wasn't difficult, but pretty time consuming.
nozzle01.jpg

BTW. Why aren't there any bronze nozzles available? I think it's harder and more slippery than brass. I have a bronze bar lying around.

[curious aardvark]

boat looks good - what's an echo ?

[tahustvedt]

I mean those artifacts that appear after openings that look like ghosts of the openings.

I modeled my own fan duct for the stock fan. Strongly influenced by the DiiiCooler, but larger volume and openings to avoid increasing the pressure. I'm trying to print it but the printer suddenly stops for no apparent reason now. I'll try another SD card.

[Cyber Akuma]

Try removing the reset jumper, that is one of the known bugs when using a SD card with the printer

[tahustvedt]

Ok. I'll open it up later. What exactly does that jumper do?

Here's my duct. One that worked itself loose from the table (Old version), One that stopped halfway through, and the STL of the latest version.

[Cyber Akuma]

It enables software reset, with it removed it can't reset through software commands.

Not my words:

That jumper connects the reset out of the USB to serial conversion chip (FTDI- both a brand name and an acronym- google it) to the main processor.

The main processor is the printer controller. It runs the firmware, is what displays on the screen and is what makes the thing work.

If you reset the main processor- just like windows booting up, it takes a few seconds. During that time period, software cannot connect to it. If reset happens during a print, that's it- game over, that print is ruined and cannot be restarted.

However, there are logical times when you might want to cause a reset commanded from the computer and that can send a command to the FTDI chip, that in turn resets the processor

The OTHER problem is the microSD card slot is powered via a spare voltage regulator output to generate the 3.3V used by SD cards VS the 5V used by the FTDI, main processor, and all the other logic on the board.

There are conditions such as first inserting a microSD card that causes a surge and the FTDI chip powering that part of the circuit resets. In doing so, if the auto reset jumper is enabled- then the FTDI resetting ALSO resets the main processor.

That is NOT an intended function but one that does happen. So, in that case, removing the auto reset jumper is not a bad idea to prevent accidentally resetting the main processor under certain conditions.

[JonHence]

Thanks for sharing the new 3D printer introduction here. I am new in Robotics and looking for a 3D which can help me to design the robot parts according to my specifications.
I want to know the full specification of the product you shared. Also in which type of applications it will be helpful.
I have the need to design Gears most of the times.