ABS - with Flashforge and Simplify3D

[LakeDuck]

I have tried several combinations of slowing down and up and down on temperature, any suggestionsGlassTrim_ABS.jpg

[curious aardvark]

usually with splitting like that print slower and hotter. Both not one or the other.

But it could simply be the abs. Best suggestion would be use pla :-)
Or buy more expensive abs plus with less warp.

Or fully enclose the printer so the abs cools down slower.

[robosmith]

I bought ABS from Frys (made by MG Chemicals?) and it printed with the Monoprice FF rebrand (bed heated to 110C) first time, no problem. Even printed at 100% infill. Used Makerware 2.4.? with a sled.

I was surprised, cause when that part was printed on a different printer with different ABS, it curled significantly. Don't know whether that print used a heated bed.

[GammaRays]

This happens when the ABS cools too quickly. Also, the inward forces caused by the layers contracting tend to compound when the layer height increases. This means that tall or thick parts will have especially high compressive forces that may cause delamination (layer separation). The best solution is to increase the temperature of your build chamber. I printed two handle-hole covers for my FFCP and have the bed set to 110C; the build chamber runs at about 48C. Additionally, the slower you print and the small the layer height, the more time the extruder will be near the filament it just put down, decreasing the chances of it cooling too rapidly

Increase build chamber temperature > increase bed temperature (110C max) > decrease speed > decrease layer height

[curious aardvark]

the other thing you can do is reduce the infill.
Makerware's infill is particularly strong, so for most things anything over 10% is just wasted plastic.
Less plastic, less warp.

[jfkansas]

i've had better luck running ABS on a 90c plate, always using a thin coat of slurry... Takes far less time to warm up also. Definitely need to fully enclose and have a lid on the machine though.