Results 11 to 15 of 15
-
03-20-2015, 01:22 PM #11
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Posts
- 13
I've tried super glue for my PLA and works ok and ABS I haven't tried. I do have some weld on 16 here but I've haven't tried it yet. I have noticed that superglue works on some PLA brands better than others.
-
03-20-2015, 03:58 PM #12
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Posts
- 6
I have been playing with BONDIC it is not glue it is liquid plastic cured by UV light. Really cool stuff you can build it up and fill in gaps etc. it cures in 4-7sec. when you put UV led on it.
-
03-22-2015, 08:12 PM #13
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Posts
- 5
A properly dried ABS/Acetone slurry glued joint will for all intents be as strong as all the material around it. I've used it on motorcycle race fairings and it's never the joint that fails.
The key is fully dried/cured joint and for thicker areas it can be days to fully dry.
-
03-23-2015, 07:10 AM #14
yeah the abs slurry is good. I just got tired of breathing in all those acetone fumes.
And I stopped using abs :-)
The acetone fumes were one of the deciding factors to switch to pla - got some pet to try next. tried the bend test on the filament. doesn't go white, doesn't snap just bends back and forward as much as you like.
I think the prices are coming down on pet. And the clear glue will stick that as well.
-
04-26-2016, 04:47 AM #15
I was just suggested this over at reprap, it got good reviews for ABS if you are tired of slurry.
http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-p...s-from-warping
PLA doesn't need anything special. It will stick to paper if you print on it (seriously.. try printing on a super tight flat piece of paper on your hotbed, sticks like a charm) but PLA sticks to most things, glass, kapton, tape, skin... I would just use blue tape and a glue stick for PLA. The blue tape gives a unique surface to your prints too, not shiny like ABS but compacted and smooth.Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com
Extruder not feeding during print,...
04-24-2024, 01:59 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help