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  1. #1
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    PET Tape Versus Blue Painters tape.

    On the basis of a couple of exchanges and threads I ordered a roll of pet tape from china the other week.

    Just replaced the painters tape with the pet tape. Hardest bit is lining the strips up as the tape is transparent and hard to see where the edges meet.
    Didn't take too long though.

    Heated bed to 60c - which also doesn't take that long. - Not forgetting to recalibrate at 60c :-)
    Currently running off a sample filament spool.
    So far sticks and looks like it does on the blue tape.
    :-)

    The idea is that when the bed cools the part pops off, leaving the tape unharmed.

    If that works I'll print a part that usually warps with this cheapo filament.
    The idea is that it sticks like stink to the warm tape and not to it when it's cooled down.
    We shall see :-)

    But so far - looking pretty good.

    Anyone know if abs sticks to pet tape ?

    Quick look online suggests that it does.
    Now that would be cool if |i can get abs to stick like pla I can finally use up all the rolls I've got :-)

    More later...

  2. #2
    In My opinion theres no need to use tape of any kind. I did when I first started and learned to print everything on 6"x9"x1/4" glass plates I got from my local glass store. Just $5.00 a piece. I wash they well and clean with alcohol. I coat them with PVA glue and all of my prints weather ABS or PLA stick perfect almost every time.

  3. #3
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    Curious. Why did you buy it from China when green tinted tape available in US at Amazon.
    If it works You can get 6" wide.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    On the basis of a couple of exchanges and threads I ordered a roll of pet tape from china the other week.

    Just replaced the painters tape with the pet tape. Hardest bit is lining the strips up as the tape is transparent and hard to see where the edges meet.
    Didn't take too long though.

    Heated bed to 60c - which also doesn't take that long. - Not forgetting to recalibrate at 60c :-)
    Currently running off a sample filament spool.
    So far sticks and looks like it does on the blue tape.
    :-)

    The idea is that when the bed cools the part pops off, leaving the tape unharmed.

    If that works I'll print a part that usually warps with this cheapo filament.
    The idea is that it sticks like stink to the warm tape and not to it when it's cooled down.
    We shall see :-)

    But so far - looking pretty good.

    Anyone know if abs sticks to pet tape ?

    Quick look online suggests that it does.
    Now that would be cool if |i can get abs to stick like pla I can finally use up all the rolls I've got :-)

    More later...
    ABS does stick to it but not for extended periods. I was printing quad copter arms one day testing it, they are 3 hours to print per arm. At about the 2 hour mark, every single time.. it would lift of the tape. I ended up using a very very thin smear of a Clag glue stick before printing, as my dad used to say 'it worked so well it would have stuck jesus to the cross'
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  5. #5
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    sasabs - I live in england. Can't remember if I ordered from amazon or ebay - either way it only took a week and was about a £5.

    So first print worked. just picked it off the plate this morning.
    I probably printed it a tad too quick, but it worked fine.
    If this works for every print then the roll of tape should last for years :-)

    Just started a much bigger print that had a little warp first time round. Still useable.

    I'm off to work - so just waiting for the first couple of layers to go down and then I'll leave her to it :-)

    ***

    getting a little head drag - which hasn't been an issue with blue tape.
    But then I did reduce my first layer size - so possible filament not adhering as much as it should.
    I'll stick that back up.

    Doesn't look like it'll be an issue with this model.
    But I suppopse it goes back to the old adage: if it's not broke - don't fix it :-)

    ***

    Right back from nottingham.
    And yep the outdoor poop bag dispenser with built in rain hood - printed perfectly flat and wasn't stuck at all when I got back ! (the previous one without hood didn't) same pla and settings.

    pic below shows both. You can see the warp on the first one I did with blue tape (on the right - the blue thing is just to prop it up). This is the £13 a kg (delivered) pla I got from ebay. This is the first completely flat decent sized print I've got from it.


    So yep, I'm sold. This stuff is way way better than blue tape. And the bases are smooth as glass.
    And if means I can print perfectly flat with really cheap filament - even better :-)

    Anyone out there using blue tape for pla. Try pet tape - you do need a heated bed though, but only to 60c.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-18-2015 at 12:15 PM.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I'm so impressed with this stuff that I'm goj gto try a secret heart box. Those buggers always warp and fuse at the tip.

    I've also increased the size by 1 % to give the joints a slightly better chance :-)

    Still using the cheap white pla.
    This is a serious test of this tape :-)

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Well the heart box came out the best I've done.
    No actual welding of joints just a minor pressure with modelling blade needed on the end - the bit that's usually welded together.
    And the first one with a flat base too !

    Just printed out a coaster with the ideo blue pla I got from idg3dprinting.
    Needed a little tweaking, had to bump the printbed up to 70c to get it to stick properly. But prints out okay now.
    I'll try my standard spherecube after I've printed out a flat bicycle: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:714484

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Actually I didn't do any of that. lol
    Decided to test ou the protopasta stainless steel pla.

    And the only drawback to the pet tape is that you absolutely cannot get the bloody model off the bed till it's cooled down :-)
    (has sudden inspiration !)
    So I've just taken a bottle of beer out of my workshop fridge and laid it flat on the print bed next to the print.
    Should cool it down a lot quicker :-)

    Hmm, beds at 34c - at which point pla comes of really easy.
    This stainless steel stuff is still stuck fast !
    Current workshop temp is about 21c

    Looks like I might need to find the cooling spray I've got somewhere.

    Ah ha - got it.
    So after about 10 minutes of sanding and wire wool polishing. It.s still a greyey/browney colour, just slightly shiny.
    Hmm.
    Walk the dog and then work out how to make it look like steel.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-19-2015 at 01:01 PM.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Most important difference between pet and blue tape I've discovered so far.

    I've had to up the extrusion temp for most filaments. Where bluetape grabs and won't let go, so you can extrude at lowish temps. The pet tape just sits there all casual like and wants the filament to do all the work.

    So to date I've had to increase all extrusion temps by 5-10c.
    Otherwise the first layer doesn't lay quite flat and stuff gets snarled up.

    Currently printing some teatowel clips with flexible pla.
    210 on blue tape. That was a disaster on pet, just scraped up the middle three into crap.
    215 - all five looking perfect.

    Same thing with pla. had to up the extrusion temps.
    But once you realise that - it does work very well.

    Still haven't managed a chainmail bracelet yet - but might just need to up the temp a wee bit more.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-30-2015 at 09:26 AM.

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