So printing Taulman Bridge Nylon is easy? Not for me! Help needed plz

**randyrue** · 11-22-2016, 09:52 PM

This thread's a bit old but I'm having very similar trouble, been printing for a year or so on a hytbrid delta with an E3D V6 (Bowden) and an EZStruder and recently started to print using Taulman Bridge Nylon at 250c

I can only get so far into a print before the filament stops moving, but it doesn't appear to be blocked at the nozzle. Instead it seems to be binding up somewhere higher in the E3D, if I pull it out and try to work it back in manually I can even feel where it's binding. Cutting about two feet off the filament and starting again seems to to get me started again but only for a while.

Did a couple of cold pulls and got some junk out but it hasn't solved the problem. It's almost as if the filament is getting wider but if I check it with a caliper it's still 1.75.

Any ideas?

**RepRapi3** · 11-22-2016, 11:40 PM

Bridge nylon has been made redundant by more advanced nylons, I use Taulman Alloy Nylon now, Less warping and much easier to get the first layer to stick. If I were you I'd try raising the nozzle temp to 275c, With my E3D V6 I couldn't print at 250c, so I'm not surprised you're having trouble.

**Todd-67** · 11-23-2016, 04:36 AM

^^ what he said. Temps are too low. I had zero problems getting it to stick on a heated glass bed with adhesive but the extrusion temps need to be upwards of 260.

**randyrue** · 11-23-2016, 09:25 AM

Progress. Cleared up a problem with the spool holder that only happens with the smaller spool for the nylon, raised the temp to 265 and got a print to complete if not very well, lots of threading and globbing. Dried the nylon when I got it but that was a week ago, put it in the oven overnight.

Tried another print and jammed again, this time it appears the filament was scraping on an edge between the spool and the extruder motor and binding up in the Bowden tube. Killing me. Trying again now.

Warping was my next question. Using purple glue stick on glass at ~60c and a print with a rectangular base 55mmx80mm is pulling up at the corners even if I shield the print area. This is a delta so harder to shield, I wrap it with a piece of fleece clipped below the carriages. Will try the glass hotter and limp along until I can try another nylon.

Originally Posted by RepRapi3

Bridge nylon has been made redundant by more advanced nylons, I use Taulman Alloy Nylon now, Less warping and much easier to get the first layer to stick. If I were you I'd try raising the nozzle temp to 275c, With my E3D V6 I couldn't print at 250c, so I'm not surprised you're having trouble.

**randyrue** · 11-23-2016, 07:24 PM

Well Damn. Was trying to reload the filament for the gazillionth time and found a point where I couldn't even pull it through the "top" Bowden tub (from the spool to the extruder motor), this time there was a clear point where the filament just stopped moving. Checked the diameter at the point where it stopped when it hit the tube and it's 1.99mm.

Could this stuff have gotten hot while stored and malformed? Or has Taulman had QC issues in the past? Or is this not real Taulman?

Got it on Amazon. Returning it.

**curious aardvark** · 11-24-2016, 07:08 AM

taulman products really suck in open cased machines. Personally I wouldn't even consider using them unless it was a fully enclosed machine.
I have never managed to get anything close to a decent print from ANY taulman product from an open framed, unheated machine.
Think I had even more hassle with the alloy 910 than I did with the bridge.

You want a seriously good nylon that prints without the hassle you get with everything else - try MyMat nylon. Pricey, but just works - in any machine.

**ralphzoontjens** · 06-06-2017, 07:44 AM

Taulman Bridge is not easy to print with and you have to get the settings right (>255C), slow printing speeds, no cooling and zero under- or overextrusion, and for each project after at least a month of non-use you oven dry it for 4 hours at 75C/160F. It is a few years old but still a great filament. Also layer bonding is great compared to other filaments resulting in strong parts. Thin parts can designed to be flexible while thicker ones will be very strong and feasible for load-bearing applications. A heated bed is not necessary for most parts if you use a brim and coarse print bed material. I have printed a few nice parts with it.