New 12" user and I am LOST!

**printbus** · 02-07-2015, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by usarmyaircav

kevin, is there a better first layer hight than the .35mm?

We'll have to open the question up to others that have experimented with it. The Slic3r INI files from MakerFarm had the first layer height at 0.35mm, and I just stuck with it. When I migrated to Cura/Cura Engine, I ended up configuring it to match the first layer settings I had been using in Slic3r. Simplify3D doesn't have a setting for an explicit first layer height, but it does have a percent adjustment you can apply to the first layer. I've left S3D at the default first layer height setting at 90% of my normal 0.20mm layer height.

I would imagine that within reason, slicers should be able to provide consistent first layer results across a range of first layer height/width settings by adjusting the extrusion flow and line spacing accordingly.

**tsteever** · 02-07-2015, 10:03 AM

I am going to try again as last night was a bust. Pronterface is working still...fingers crossed. I had to fiddle with he port and baud rate settings a bit as the first attempt gave me a baud rate error. I changed the baud rate, tried to connect and it failed. I then changed back to 250000 and tried again. This time it worked.

So, the big issue I am having is the first layers. I set the end stop using the following technique.

1)Heated everything up. I leveled the x carriage to the frame and then leveled the bed.
2) homed the bed using pronterface. lifted Z, moved to center and lowered z slowly and check how close it was to the glass. It needed to go down so I adjusted endstop.
3) homed again. moved z up and then to center. Checked with paper. Nope, still too high. I repeated this process till the nozzle was just grabbing the paper.
4) I loaded some code to the printer and ran it. I watched the skirt and first layer like a hawk and noticed that the ABS wasn't being smooshed. I stopped the print and adjusted the endstop.
5) Repeated this process till I got a smooshed base.

Once the print completed I looked at the bottom. There was some smooshing but the abs wasn't solid. There were gaps between the abs lines.

Also, the top was ...ugly. Not at all like what I have seen this printer is capable of.

I am going to run my z procedure again and then measure the distance the nozzle is at in the first line of code. What are the commands that will tell me what the nozzle is at? I'd like to compare what the printer thinks is happening to what the measurement is.

I still don't like how the endstop is behaving.

**tsteever** · 02-07-2015, 10:51 AM

never mind about the pronterface! Can't connect today! I get this error.

Attempted to write invalid text to console, which could be due to an invalid baudrate

What the crap?

**Cameron** · 02-07-2015, 11:01 AM

set your baudrate to 250000

**tsteever** · 02-07-2015, 11:29 AM

It was. I tried the tty port @ 250000, the cu port at 250000, I tired it at every combination! I googled it, again! Read so many different things I don't know hat I tried and haven't tried! Something is off. At least when I connect I am connected to the printer as I can see it blink the lights and the LCD connects. I also have choices in the port menu. I didn't always have that! It is hit or miss it seems.

The consistent error I get is a baud rate error. Is there a way I can tell what the baud rate of my mac is?

Update...it is connected finally. I don't know what I did. I read a post somewhere instructing the user to manually home the printer and then try it. I moved the bed to home and held the z end stop down. Click and rechecked and it did finally connect.

WHAT? I need to figure this out. Too many issues going on right now and the frustration level at setting this up is rising to high. I'm going for a run...

**sniffle** · 02-07-2015, 12:03 PM

OK, you have to realize that your using a mac and sadly you have to figure most of that out for yourself, but once your connected and printing we've got your back :-)

So relax and breathe, we're here to help... but try to stay calm and analytical, because getting frustrated wont do anything but make it harder to get it working right.

Alright, now that you are connected to the printer, it's time to set you Z-height at the corner where the nylon spacer is. Once you do that it's time to level the bed.

**tsteever** · 02-07-2015, 12:04 PM

Couldn't do it, the run that is. It's bugging me. So I homed the z and then moved it up. I slowly moved it down .1 until it couldn't move any more as the printer says nope, you're are 0. I did a m119 command and the endstop says open! I hit the hone button and the nozzle gets pressed into the glass! I backed it up and did a m119 command after each move and it took .3mm before the trigger opened.It took a .7mm move just to get the paper out.

Do I need to redesign the endstop? Would an auto bed level help? I can't live with these inconsistencies as they can't be good for printing. Is there that much play in the endstop arm? They are the newer ones with the dollar on the end.

**tsteever** · 02-07-2015, 02:10 PM

I homed the bed, leveled it. Moved the nozzle to center and made sure that it is rubbing the paper and printed the 24mm hollow cube from the build guide.

Here are the results...

This is the top. I am not happy with the open spots. How do I solve this. Sides look good.

This is the bottom. To me, it doesn't look squished, I think I need to adjust the end stop a bit more. Let the nozzle go lower. Or, adjust the first layer height.

Front to back measurement

Height

Width

**rhonal89** · 02-07-2015, 02:21 PM

I believe slic3r leaves the top that way. When I first printed my cube it was the same way as your cube on top but worst button layer. Just keep on working and you will be able to get it working correctly.

**sniffle** · 02-07-2015, 02:23 PM

edit:.... your printing... good :-) whats your infill on the cube? if it is 0, that's really not that bad of a bridge which is really hard to get just right