Thanks you are probably right.. I don't have that much left adjust.. just a few mm.
Type: Posts; User: ffvader
Thanks you are probably right.. I don't have that much left adjust.. just a few mm.
ah nm.
found it discussed here
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/flashforge/iBHocaDUes4
sorry for the stupid question.
but on my FFCP if i design something that takes up the whole bed, when it prints, i can tell it's shifted a little to the left.
the reason is
if i leave 1-2 mm of...
I ran with glue for a while.
switched to hairspray on straight glass. that works much better than the glue
I have almost no prints curl up. you also may want to tray lowering your HB as you go...
i'm doing some dual material prints (tpu on the bottom and pla on top)
and i ran into this issue as well.
what i did to solve it (in S3d) was to make sure both extruders where in each profile, and...
yeah you have to install the gpx plugin in octopi
and whatever slicer you use, you have to tell it to output gcode
upload only gcode to octopi and then the gpx plugin will do the converting for you
slic3r is free and decent.
simplify3d cost but is better.
well you can upload your file to octopi and then shut your computer off or go do other things, it's essentially a tiny print server (more) energy efficient than your pc. plus it "networks" your...
i'm running this setup and it works great.
the only gotcha's i ran into was to make sure you set a login and password when you first set it up.
i skipped it the first time around since it will only...
PM sent.. thanks!
yeah m3's it is..
I bought the avn swiss all metal hot ends.. very happy with it.
they also have nozzles at their site
http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!product-page/cv9c/29551477-6081-c30f-04fe-cece31e3ba6f
should be have received these by now or are you still shipping?
yeah but why.. what are you thinking of doing that can't be done with stock?
why do you want to replace the stock hot ends?
i think that is subjective.
it depends on your printing platform.
if you have glass with glue, or tape, or buildtak directly on your build plate..
etc.
it will vary based on what you are printing...
Thanks for the update.. looking forward to receiving mine..
it has been my experience that if it's too tough to get off the plate, it hasn't cooled long enough.
sometimes i leave my stuff over night and when i come back in the morning, just touching them...
if you put the shim in you should be okay, but just to be safe, i would crank my leveling knobs all the way down just to be safe and then you can open them up when you are leveling the bed
that way...
why glass = you can removed the glass to remove your print, you can clean it.. with a bolted down build plate this is a problem
why hairspray = it helps prints stick better to glass over other...
i would say because the rpi uses 5v, where as most peoples laptops and pc's and monitors use much more.
so it's more energy efficient. it's also set up for a dedicated task. so you can set it and...
i'm about 4-5 weeks ahead of you with my printer..
i used repg for about a day, then switched to slic3r and finally to simplify3d.
at first i though slic3r was better, but i stuck with using s3d...
how fast are you printing? looks like it's either printing too fast, or extruding too much.
also even with PLA i find if i heat things up a bit more 90c it will keep it from lifting.
hairspray on...
I have tried kapton tape, buildtak, glue on glass
so far the best i've found was
hairspray on straight glass (aquanet unscented)
my ABS sticks perfectly now where as it was hit or miss with all...
If makerbot slicer exports gcode (not .xg3) then yes it would work because the gpx plugin on the octoprint server will convert it to .xg3 and send it to your printer.
Not sure i would suggest team...