No it's not. On a Velleman 8200 the print head is fixed in X and Y and the bed moves in both axes. It's a hilariously terrible design.
OP, It's worth hanging on to as the frame is solid as hell....
Type: Posts; User: Martin_au
No it's not. On a Velleman 8200 the print head is fixed in X and Y and the bed moves in both axes. It's a hilariously terrible design.
OP, It's worth hanging on to as the frame is solid as hell....
23mm3/s sounds about right for a Magnum with PETG. That's about 2.5 times higher than a standard E3D V6.
If you want some giggles though, the CHT nozzle comes in 1.4 and 1.8mm variants. :D I've...
Lost of prints. Around 12Kg of plastic all up.
The X5SA is a bit of a lucky dip. It's a decent frame (and indeed, that frame has been repurposed by several designs, such as the VzBot), with bottom of the barrel components and electronics. It's a...
Y stop is constantly triggered. May be a busted cable/switch, or the endstop is set the wrong way in the Marlin config.
Also sounds like the Y-axis direction is inverted. This means whenever you...
Had a bunch of requests for various bits and pieces from my CoreXY, so I have compiled all my mods, upgrades, designs, etc into one big step file, and made it available here:...
Printing was the easy part. Making all the 'voxels' was not much fun.
Full sized set. Took about 120 hours of printing.
Common point of failure for this model, IIRC, is the mosfet or the terminals at the board dying. It's a 12v system so there's a few amps going through the wires.
If the bed thermistor shows a...
Have you tried nylon, or nylon+filler (glass, carbon fibre) through your lulzbot?
Looks like integrated steppers + lead screws. I prefer them. Less bits to come loose. Just treat the combined stepper+leadscrew as though it were a stepper with short shaft, coupler and leadscrw.
Even better
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/geeetech-aluminium-3d-printer-kit
On the plus side, the frame looks beast!
On the downside, it's pretty likely you're going to need to do the electronics from scratch.
In terms of what it is, it's some sort of Prusa i3 clone. I'd...
Alternative idea - If there's space for infill, then adjusting the infill percentage will change the density. E.g., 100% infill should sink, but 50% might be enough to float. You could also tweak...
It can be quite hard to use Cura (Not impossible, but there's a lot of work involved). The firmware on the A3 is very touchy about things like decimal places, so there's sometimes a need to tweak the...
I think, given that there is almost no chance that the XL bed would be cheaper than a basic slab of aluminium with an AC heatpad slapped on it, that the question that would need to be asked is...
Came together quite nicely. Shame I missed doing monotonic infill on a few of them.
I would expect that could be done, but not with the Prusa design. I doubt they'll do a 3mm extruder. Main challenge would be working the design around the loadcell, heatbreak thermistor and other new...
The tool changer is not e3d’s design. It’s quite different from e3d’s. “ Our internally developed kinematic coupler mechanism ensures millions of trouble-free tool changes” - Prusa.
Also, Prusa...
Oops. Should have been dual Z-axis. Means that the bed is controlled (and can be aligned right-left) using two lead screws. Many printers with larger beds are using 3 leadscrews (and occasionally 4),...
Has now been announced, shipping mid next year.
https://blog.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-xl-first-look_58312/
My thoughts.
Some weird - dual bed axis? I expect Prusa can get away with it...
Yes. Use meshmixer. Then use the create solid tool. Set a high resolution and accuracy, using the preserve sharp edges option, and sets minimum thickness that suits your printer.
Here's a slightly better calibration/benching print than the dinoclip one I posted. The author of this clip has included STLs for different tolerances. ...
Excellent post. Good details.
How did you go about cleaning the bed?
What temps are you running?
2.0.9.2 is latest release (but I don’t think has support for the Octopus Pro) - https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases
Looks like it was released 25 days ago.
Got my attention too...
Just had another look. Looks like there is support for the STM32F429ZGT6, using the same pins as the old Octo board. Check out https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/23008
It's not...