Well... I haven't tried it myself, but glue stick apparent works both to stick your print down as well as help you release it at the end. Plus, it cleans up with water, so you can use some water on...
Type: Posts; User: warkmal
Well... I haven't tried it myself, but glue stick apparent works both to stick your print down as well as help you release it at the end. Plus, it cleans up with water, so you can use some water on...
Very unlikely to be the motor. They're apparently very hard to kill. If the motor isn't producing sufficient torque it is more likely an almost break in the wire. To eliminate the clog possibility...
Huh, seems like two in front seems like an improvement since more of the adjustment points are easier to reach.
My FFCP from last Feb is one in front two in back. Seems like without drilling...
It's possible that it is PEI since flashforge has changed what they include several times, but it seems unlikely to be PEI since they are usually golden yellow.
The last time flashforge commented...
"tramming is off" is a more accurate way of saying "bed level is off".
You're doing two things when you are setting those three screws under the bed: 1. Tramming it to the nozzle so that it is the...
ReplicatorG is kind of abandonware, but it has the onboard preferences for your printer. You may want to move on to a slicer that is getting recent improvements. The Cadillac is Simplify3D, but if...
The software that came with it is RepG. The latest version is on thingiverse. Search for the Sailfish thing. RepG 40r33 is in the thing files.
I don't think so. Flashforge answered on the Google group and said they were polycarbonate. I really like the PEI though.
PEI is translucent yellowish.
Tighten lowers the bed. Loosen raises it.
No need for anything between but I use Gino pads. They're sticky enough horizontally to hold the print still, but release the bed vertically if I need to take it off. Then I can avoid using binder...