MakerFarm 8" i3v Prusa build by Printbus

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Originally Posted by adamfilip

Your attention to detail is incredible. Im about to start my build, and I hope I can get it atleast half as clean as your build is, well done

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Thanks. Yeah, the detail in the build thread sort of got out of control. My original intent was just to provide some pay back to the 3D PrintBoard community for the few i3v build threads before mine that sold me on the i3v. I seriously believe I couldn't have made a better choice for getting a start in 3D printing. Of course, YMMV.

If you haven't read me harp about it before, I'm all about sharing. The more we all share, the easier it can be for people to pick up on ideas that fit their situation and the better the i3v community becomes. Here and elsewhere, my posts also tend to be verbose so that people have enough background information to make their own decisions.

A challenge in starting a build is in guessing where you want things nice and tidy vs. really want to keep things flexible. While my printer looks quite nice, I admit that can be a hindrance. For example, right now I've got new stepper motors that will require a major effort to install due to the neatly sleeved and tightly routed wire bundles...

perhaps its best to get it running and tuned, once your happy then do a wiring overhaul to make it all tidy?

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Originally Posted by adamfilip

perhaps its best to get it running and tuned, once your happy then do a wiring overhaul to make it all tidy?

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That's worth considering. I know a few people have cleaned up the wiring (mostly by shortening the wire lengths) after they had the printer working.

REPURPOSED FILAMENT SPOOL MOUNT
Although I've had no problem with the filament spool mounted above the printer, I opted to move the filament spool to the table surface behind the printer. The spool holders I looked at on Thingiverse all seemed to be limiting in what size spools they would hold, or required dealing with nuts on threaded rods when exchanging spools. To get by until I find a better option, I decided to repurpose the upright supports and the horizontal rod from the spool holder I've been using. This allows me to keep using the three or four different types of spool hub adapters that cover the different styles of spools that I have.

The upright brackets designed to slip onto the top plate of the i3v were screwed onto some wood scraps. This provides about 7-3/4 inches of clearance below the 5/16-inch rod used as a cross member, more than enough clearance for the 10-inch diameter spools. If I upgrade to a dual extruder, there's enough space between the uprights to hold two of the 3-inch wide spools. Printed shaft collars are used to clamp the cross member into the uprights, and to keep the hub adapters in place. Pressure from springs and nylon washers on the cross bar provides just enough drag to keep the spool from unwinding by itself and loosening the filament, especially as the filament nears the end of the spool.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...izn/30315a.jpg

The filament guide was designed to clip behind the i3v LCD, but I opted to locate it to the left of the LCD. It's far enough to the rear to not hinder access to the SD card slot.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...4yo/30314a.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...cnh/30322a.jpg

NEW MOTORS AND MORE
Based on testing in Marlin Motion Related Configuration.h Settings for MakerFarm i3v that suggested the CW 42BHH48-050-24A motors from my older i3v kit were limiting my max Z feed rate, I opted to replace all the CW motors in my 8-inch i3v with more Kysan 1124090 motors. A Kysan has worked out well on the extruder for the last couple of months. Replacement of the motors was no easy feat since I had dressed and bundled all the printer wiring. The Kysan's have heavier gauge wires than the CW motors, so I didn't want to just cut off the wiring at the CW motors and splice on the Kysans.

The Kysans run cooler, so I took out all the motor fans and related wiring that had been added for the hot-running CW motors. Good riddance.

By leveraging additional torque provided by using 1/4 microstepping (1000 steps per unit for Z) instead of the MakerFarm default of 1/16 microstepping, the Kysans seem to be able to reliably drive the Z axis at over 3mm/sec feed rate. As an incremental increase, I'm now testing 2.5mm/sec for a while. This provides a worst-case Z home duration of about 90 seconds on my 8-inch printer.

Taking advantage of the disassembly required to swap out the motors, additional preventive maintenance was completed. The X and Y belts are now tighter than before, and I replaced both Z threaded rods and the Z nuts in the X-carriage. I worked to straighten the replacement threaded rods as best I could. To prevent accidents like the granddaughter grabbing one of the Z rods and bending it over, I've added support brackets at the top of the Z rods to protect them - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:636381.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...wdb/30326a.jpg

I've also been pretty aggressive in cleaning out the hexagon hot end nozzle a few times. Thinking I might have enlarged the nozzle tip in this cleaning, I wanted to replace the tip. Unfortunately, 0.40mm tips for the hexagon never seem to be available individually. I've installed a 0.40mm tip intended for use on the E3Dv6 hot end.

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Originally Posted by printbus

NEW MOTORS AND MORE
Based on testing in Marlin Motion Related Configuration.h Settings for MakerFarm i3v that suggested the CW 42BHH48-050-24A motors from my older i3v kit were limiting my max Z feed rate, I opted to replace all the CW motors in my 8-inch i3v with more Kysan 1124090 motors. A Kysan has worked out well on the extruder for the last couple of months. Replacement of the motors was no easy feat since I had dressed and bundled all the printer wiring. The Kysan's have heavier gauge wires than the CW motors, so I didn't want to just cut off the wiring at the CW motors and splice on the Kysans.

The Kysans run cooler, so I took out all the motor fans and related wiring that had been added for the hot-running CW motors. Good riddance.

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I hear you on this process! I totally redid my wiring and fixed some of the safety issues (soldering screw down power wires). It took forever but was definitely worth it to swap out our old hot motors for the Kysans .

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Originally Posted by printbus

I replaced both Z threaded rods and the Z nuts in the X-carriage. I worked to straighten the replacement threaded rods as best I could. To prevent accidents like the granddaughter grabbing one of the Z rods and bending it over, I've added support brackets at the top of the Z rods to protect them - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:636381.

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Looks fantastic! Any chance you may be able to provide links to the replacement rods and nuts you ordered? I bent the tops of mine trying to get them into the clear plastic tubing the first time around and would like to swap em.

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Originally Posted by printbus

Unfortunately, 0.40mm tips for the hexagon never seem to be available individually. I've installed a 0.40mm tip intended for use on the E3Dv6 hot end.

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I ordered the 0.3mm hexagon tip from makerfarm and really like it. Could be worth a future try ;)

With having a newer printer, with the motors that don't get hot, are the Kysan motors something to consider later on?

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Originally Posted by usarmyaircav

With having a newer printer, with the motors that don't get hot, are the Kysan motors something to consider later on?

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Probably not, unless perhaps if one of your motors dies. If that be a Z-motor, I'd replace both to keep them the same. An advantage of using the Kysan is you'd at least have the full specs for the motor available to you.

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Originally Posted by gmay3

Any chance you may be able to provide links to the replacement rods and nuts you ordered? I bent the tops of mine trying to get them into the clear plastic tubing the first time around and would like to swap em.

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I cut them myself from 1-meter stainless steel rods obtained through Grainger - their P/N 25DM77. I use Grainger for as much hardware as I can since stuff gets shipped for no charge to the local Grainger store. Can't imagine what the shipping cost would have been on the four-foot tube my $2.60 USD threaded rod came in. SS nuts from the local Ace Hardware were used. I see the rods are now $2.70 USD. Must have been a price increase at the beginning of the year.

Printbus, I know you have been focusing on speed and understanding how speed works lately.

Generally speaking what is considered "fast" or "normal" for the Prusa i3 styles?

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Originally Posted by sniffle

Printbus, I know you have been focusing on speed and understanding how speed works lately. Generally speaking what is considered "fast" or "normal" for the Prusa i3 styles?

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I don't have a broad enough experience with other printers to answer that with any confidence. That said, IMO the MakerFarm i3v printers should likely do better than any standard Prusa i3 using rod stock and linear bearings, as well as any printer where the frame is formed with printed corners that can deform or loosen with time.

I've seen a lot of reprap related info where people talk about printing in the 30 to 50 mm/sec range. Is that the "normal" then? IDK. These printers can definitely do better than that.

Yeah, I'm printing at 50mm/s right now, without issues. It makes me want to try and push it a little further. I don't have much experience myself only being in this for around a month :-)

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Originally Posted by printbus

I cut them myself from 1-meter stainless steel rods obtained through Grainger - their P/N 25DM77. I use Grainger for as much hardware as I can since stuff gets shipped for no charge to the local Grainger store. Can't imagine what the shipping cost would have been on the four-foot tube my $2.60 USD threaded rod came in. SS nuts from the local Ace Hardware were used. I see the rods are now $2.70 USD. Must have been a price increase at the beginning of the year.

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Many thanks! I made a cart for a threaded rod (P/N 25DM77) and M5 SS nuts (P/N 22YK31) with shipping for $16.57. Very surprisingly, the shipping is only $10 so I might just go for it ;)

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Originally Posted by sniffle

Yeah, I'm printing at 50mm/s right now, without issues. It makes me want to try and push it a little further. I don't have much experience myself only being in this for around a month :-)

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Printing speeds are also pretty tough to compare. A set speed can't be met unless both Marlin and the slicer are configured for it or the slowest setting will dominate. Set speeds may not be realized if the slicer is configured for print thermal management that slows things down to maintain a minimum layer time. Even when high print speeds are observed in a viewer like gcode.ws, they may not be realized if a lot of the printed movement is spent in acceleration and deceleration. So, without knowing the overall context, hearing about someone's print speed may not mean much.

Being a month in, you're likely still fascinated by the printing process. Nothing wrong with that. I got to the point where printing started to get kind of boring, and I began wondering whether prints had to be going as slow as they were.

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Originally Posted by printbus

Printing speeds are also pretty tough to compare. A set speed can't be met unless both Marlin and the slicer are configured for it or the slowest setting will dominate. Set speeds may not be realized if the slicer is configured for print thermal management that slows things down to maintain a minimum layer time. Even when high print speeds are observed in a viewer like gcode.ws, they may not be realized if a lot of the printed movement is spent in acceleration and deceleration. So, without knowing the overall context, hearing about someone's print speed may not mean much.

Being a month in, you're likely still fascinated by the printing process. Nothing wrong with that. I got to the point where printing started to get kind of boring, and I began wondering whether prints had to be going as slow as they were.

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yeah i'm still in the honeymoon stage :-P

but as an example i just printed the kossel platterx3.stl in 6hrs 15 min. which is pretty decent

I have to replace my Z threaded rods too. The one on the RAMPS side is worn out from ABL raising and lowering over the same area repeatedly. It's so bad I can't print anymore, that Z nut keeps slipping down over the worn area. Thanks guys for the Grainger part numbers, that made it easier to find replacements.

edit: Though it occurs to me now after I've placed the order, that I could just flip the rods over so that the worn area is higher up, where it won't interfere with shorter prints. >_

POWER MODIFICATIONS
These changes wouldn't be for everyone, but I wanted to modify how power is handled on my i3v printer:

• Provide capacity for 5V loads beyond what USB and the MEGA2560 on-board regulator can support
• Add a distribution scheme for 5V power other than connecting loads to RAMPS
• Be able to power up logic (MEGA2560 and LCD) without any fan noise being present
• Take advantage of Marlin provisions of power on/power off via LCD control or gcode
• Take advantage of Marlin provision for turning on extruder fan above a set extruder temperature
• Take advantage of Marlin provision for turning on RAMPS cooling fan when motors are being used

Use of an ATX power supply with a 5V standby output would have solved some of these expectations, but I didn't have a spare one that I wanted to use. I also preferred to keep the integrated feel of the MeanWell mounted on the i3v frame, so I came up with ways to adapt the MeanWell power supply to what I wanted. To provide a 5V source, I used a 5V 3A wall adapter that I had available. Yes, this will now require two power cords plugged into an AC outlet. I left the +5 connection disabled in my USB cable so that the MEGA2560 and LCD aren't powered by the USB connection.

I added a Tinkerkit T010010 Relay Module inline with the AC source for the MeanWell power supply. This relay is controlled by the PS_ON signal on RAMPS. The custom case I created for the Tinkerkit Relay Module is available at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:643351

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...zjc/30342a.jpg

A MOSFET breakout board module switch relay (15A, 60V) 3-outputs for Arduino/PIC module from eBay was added to expand the 12V switching capacity of RAMPS. Inputs to the switch board are currently connected to D4, D5 and D6 on the RAMPS Servos connector, but I can repin connectors as needed in the future for AUX-1 or AUX-2 connections instead. The custom spacer developed for the MOSFET module is available at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1872958.

A custom breadboard was made to provide the necessary 12V and 5V connections and fanout. White SMD LEDs were used as power indicators, and I added a USB Type A connector for possible future use. I took advantage of building a custom breadboard and added both low frequency and high frequency decoupling capacitors to the board.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...rtg/30345a.jpg

Marlin firmware changes associated with the wiring modifications include:

• Verified file pins.h has PS_ON defined as Arduino pin 12
• In file configuration.h, changed the definition of POWER_SUPPLY from type 1 to type 2 for an active-high power-on control and uncommented PS_DEFAULT_OFF so the 12V power supply starts in the off state
• In file configuration_adv.h, defined EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_PIN to Arduino pin 4 and set EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE to 35 so extruder fan is on any time the extruder reads over 35 degrees C
• In file configuration_adv.h, defined CONTROLLERFAN_PIN to Arduino pin 5
• In file ultralcd.cpp, rearranged the prepare menu so power control is at the top of the menu

I already don't like how the 12V power supply is shut off when host software connects to the printer and resets the MEGA2560. If I continue to find that unacceptably annoying, I'll add a diode-OR means of using another panel switch to force the 12V supply to stay on when I want it to. It would help if the folks at Simplify3D would have included a power control button in their machine control interface. I can consider migrating to a fabricated circuit board after resolving this and any other changes I want to make. The circuit board would likely include the MOSFET switches.

Marlin provides a speed setting for both the extruder fan and the RAMPS cooling fan. I was hoping to use those speed settings as a way to reduce fan noise, but found the PWM whine from anything other than full speed to be unacceptable. I'll have to look into how the high frequency PWM on the print cooling fan output is set up to see if I can replicate that on these fan outputs.

Here's an informally drawn schematic of the wiring changes -

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...schematicA.jpg

Nice work. Hmmm, now you have me thinking about modding again.

This is a wonderful read for me, I've looked at a number of printers, and I'm intrigued by the prusa I3v line, I'm pretty well set on a 10/12" model. At this point, I haven't ruled out more expensive printers, but like the idea of building it myself to get a feel for the printer, as well as its community base.

I've been considering adding a few components to the assembly out of the box so I can do it on first assembly rather than later, though indubitably I will have to do this in the future, anyway. I was considering the kysan motors as one such addition. Do you have any recommendations on parts to add to the initial build either due to increased quality, or difficulty in adding them at a later time?

I've already got an area set aside, and plan on making an enclosure and filament storage container for the printer.

Msmnick, check out this thread, some of the same questions about upgrades have been posted and answered . http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...rinter-Ordered.

Where in MN are you? I just moved to OK this summer from the cites.

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Originally Posted by Msmnick

Do you have any recommendations on parts to add to the initial build either due to increased quality, or difficulty in adding them at a later time?

I've already got an area set aside, and plan on making an enclosure and filament storage container for the printer.

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Glad these threads are helping. You might also want to have a look at this thread I started a few months ago:

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...Show-your-MODS

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Originally Posted by usarmyaircav

Msmnick, check out this thread, some of the same questions about upgrades have been posted and answered . http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...rinter-Ordered.

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Thanks for jumping in, Todd. Thanks to Rob as well for the response that came in while I was editing.

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Originally Posted by Msmnick

This is a wonderful read for me, I've looked at a number of printers, and I'm intrigued by the prusa I3v line, I'm pretty well set on a 10/12" model. At this point, I haven't ruled out more expensive printers, but like the idea of building it myself to get a feel for the printer, as well as its community base.

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Thanks for the feedback. I don't regret my MakerFarm choice a bit. It's a great way to go, especially as a learning experience. The community here is top notch. Along with superb customer support from MakerFarm, the level of support is hard to beat.

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I've been considering adding a few components to the assembly out of the box so I can do it on first assembly rather than later, though indubitably I will have to do this in the future, anyway. I was considering the kysan motors as one such addition. Do you have any recommendations on parts to add to the initial build either due to increased quality, or difficulty in adding them at a later time?

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Msmnick, I tend to avoid that question. Not everyone has the same expectations for their printer or print results. Everyone has a different level of fortitude, time and budget they're willing to throw at their 3D printer. I also think it can be beneficial to start with the basics and enhance the printer as experience grows or as issues come up. If you were building the 8-inch, I'd highly suggest doing something different for the lacking Z-endstop switch mount - I'll offer that much. Feel free to PM me or visit with whoever is around on the Makerfarm IRC chat if you want to discuss thoughts on specific mods.

On the Kysans, I can't say that they are a value added benefit on the newer kits. Older kits shipped with a different motor that didn't really fit the 12V printer application very well, with an issue that they ran extremely hot. That's the main reason why mine were replaced. Newer kits ship with more appropriate motors that don't run hot.

Well, that's info worth knowing. Thank you. I didn't know they changed the motor offering, though one can see why if they were having heat issues. I'll find out if the Z-endstop is built similar to yours on the model I select. Noted the addition of a screw adjustable endstop as a mentioned solution, seems like an easy way to avoid that hassle. I will look at the kysans again with what comes with my model and likely scratch them off the list. Like most people here, I have some fabrication/mechanics/electronics/engineering background, I was an electronics tech in the Navy, go to school for Mechanical Engineering, and work as a mechanic. The 3d print/cad stuff is a hobby currently, so budget is mediocre. I was considering a few nice models 2-3x the cost of this, fully assembled/fully enclosed, but the experience of these models has me intrigued, and I don't see the others offering better specs, better support, more/cheaper filament, etc.

I'm in the Moorhead area, I venture out the the Twin cities from time to time. Currently traveling south to avoid February in Minnesota.

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Originally Posted by Msmnick

Well, that's info worth knowing. Thank you. I didn't know they changed the motor offering, though one can see why if they were having heat issues. I'll find out if the Z-endstop is built similar to yours on the model I select. Noted the addition of a screw adjustable endstop as a mentioned solution, seems like an easy way to avoid that hassle. I will look at the kysans again with what comes with my model and likely scratch them off the list. Like most people here, I have some fabrication/mechanics/electronics/engineering background, I was an electronics tech in the Navy, go to school for Mechanical Engineering, and work as a mechanic. The 3d print/cad stuff is a hobby currently, so budget is mediocre. I was considering a few nice models 2-3x the cost of this, fully assembled/fully enclosed, but the experience of these models has me intrigued, and I don't see the others offering better specs, better support, more/cheaper filament, etc.

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With a budget constraint, I'd definitely hold off on the Kysans. The concern on the Z endstop bracket should only be on the 8-inch kits. MakerFarm migrated to an improved Z-endstop bracket that uses a screw adjustment for the 12-inch printers, and I've heard they're now shipping the 10-inch printer with that improved bracket as well.

I'm working on a modification for the VSlot version but don't own that printer. I need to know a measurement and if one of you get a chance I'd like to know the head diameter of the 1) round head hex on the left. And 2) the diameter of the hex nut (the long dimension, not the short one) and the diameter of the flat washer. Also, I'd like to know how far each sticks out off of the surface.


http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=1570&stc=1

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Originally Posted by RobH2

I'm working on a modification for the VSlot version but don't own that printer. I need to know a measurement and if one of you get a chance I'd like to know the head diameter of the 1) round head hex on the left. And 2) the diameter of the hex nut (the long dimension, not the short one) and the diameter of the flat washer. Also, I'd like to know how far each sticks out off of the surface.

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Dimensions for standard M5 hardware would apply. The round hex head are called button head; the nut is a nylon locknut. The washer is a fender washer that I added on my own. I would recommend looking up specifications for M5 hardware, but I measure as follows (based on sample of one piece only):

Button head: 9.23mm diameter, 2.75mm head height
Nyloc nut: 7.88mm flat-to-flat, 8.75mm diagonal point-to-point, 4.78mm height
Fender washer: 14.72mm diameter, 1.09mm thickness

McMaster provides 2d and 3d drawings of almost all there fasteners.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#94500a231/=vrolwa

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

Yes, McMaster is good for that but if you don't know what size they are to start with those tables don't help much. I was going to try to interpolate the sizes because I know how thick the wood is. But, I thought it might be faster to ask one of you guys and see if anyone minded measuring for me. Thanks a lot for the fast measurements. Exactly what I need...

Hey I just wanted to mention the i3v printers are being shipped with updated micro adjustable z endstops now. The build guides have been updated as well to reflect it.

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Originally Posted by aaaa

Hey I just wanted to mention the i3v printers are being shipped with updated micro adjustable z endstops now. The build guides have been updated as well to reflect it.

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That's good news. The 8-inch printer must have been the last to get the update. There's at least one person who built his i3v-8 within the last couple of weeks and it still had the original style.

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Originally Posted by printbus

That's good news. The 8-inch printer must have been the last to get the update. There's at least one person who built his i3v-8 within the last couple of weeks and it still had the original style.

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My 8" was shipped in late November early December and it had the updated endstop/X-idler. My frame doesn't have all the fancy writing on it though. Would have been great of Colin to update the build guide before I sliced my Z-endstop bracket!!!! Oh well.

NEW APPROACH FOR THE HEXAGON HOT END SHROUD
Finally came up with my own shroud design for the hexagon hot end that should do a better cooling job than the stock shroud, and shouldn't have a tendency to melt and drip onto the print bed or a print. See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:693913 for STL files. Two styles are provided - both use a 25mm fan like the 3CFM Sunon MAGlev MC25101V2-000U-A99 fan. One style mounts the fan flush to the shroud, and the other style angles the fan exhaust upwards by 10 degrees to clear the heated bed area.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...b9m/30429a.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...iz1/30431a.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...dpw/30433a.jpg

This looks very interesting. I am going to take a look at how this could work with my current setup. (wanting to add a PLA cooling fan as well so will see how that can integrate with my plans for that.)

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Cameron

This looks very interesting. I am going to take a look at how this could work with my current setup. (wanting to add a PLA cooling fan as well so will see how that can integrate with my plans for that.)

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Like the stock 40mm fan, this won't work with the clough42 print cooler system, if that's what you're thinking of using. With the stock fan, you couldn't really even try to use the clough42 cooler since the cooler would block the top of the hot end fan. That's not a negative for the clough42 cooler - it wasn't intended to be used with the stock hot end fan. With this hot end shroud and fan, the clough42 print cooler could at least be adapted to mount on top of the flat plate for this shroud. As a minimum, you'd have to modify the mount for the clough42 cooler so that the hinge joint is farther away from the extruder base. It may also be desirable to extend the print cooling shroud the same amount to maintain the same distance from the nozzle.

In my case, I didn't track down one of the fans clough42 recommended for use with his print cooling shroud, and found the backpressure from the narrow outlet shroud resulted in little cooling airflow with the fans I had on hand. I then migrated to the side-mounted blower, which IMO is a more effective and also lighter approach to a print cooler. I have a few other ideas related to the print cooler that I haven't gotten around to yet.

Yeah I am not sure what way I want to go.... I need to see what fans I have lying around.....
I don't have a clough42 sized fan either.
I also want to have some lights installed to see the hot end better. Might have to come up with my own weird design.
I do like your side print cooler.

Hi all

A few weeks ago I made a word doc with the infos of Printbus.

Saddly I deleted the digital file. But here is a rough scan of it:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h55wdbg6gx...Build.pdf?dl=0

I hope that is ok for you Printbus?!?

BR
PGX3S

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Originally Posted by pgx3s

A few weeks ago I made a word doc with the infos of Printbus. Saddly I deleted the digital file. But here is a rough scan of it:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h55wdbg6gx...Build.pdf?dl=0

I hope that is ok for you Printbus?!?

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Too bad you deleted the Word file. This is actually a good thing, since 3DPrintBoard is currently having technical issues and many of the images are no longer viewable in the thread.

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Originally Posted by printbus

3DPrintBoard is currently having technical issues and many of the images are no longer viewable in the thread.

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Do you not have the images still on your computer?

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Originally Posted by AbuMaia

Do you not have the images still on your computer?

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I do, but I'm waiting on responses from 3dprintboard regarding their plans to correct the issue before I try to restore the images or salvage what I can from 3dprintboard and move it somewhere more reliable. (hint, hint, 3dprintboard)

I've noticed that the regulars around here have not been as active in the posts as in the past...

As an owner of an 8 inch i3v, I pass by the posts regarding the larger printers, which more and more people are using these days. They're outside my experience, as are the RAMBO and RUMBA board posts.