Would you please explain why? I read the 1/4in retains more heat for longer and on my I3 I used 3mm so 1/8in and it actually would flex with a MK2B so clips were out (don't use them anymore anyway).
Printable View
Cable chain really isn't needed. Just releasing the cables and letting them hang free works good too.
Attachment 9301
It fits within the range of the build plate height adjustment better. The heat capacity isn't that much different, and it cools faster when the print is done. This makes the part pop off faster. It probably heats faster also, but I have never timed the difference.
Yes, and I bet you it takes more heat to heat the top up because glass is an insulator.
On my printer I am just going to print me an endstop holder for my hall effect endstop I made. I never once had this sort of repeatability using a mechanical endstop. When I used to use ABL I could see the repeatability of the mechanical endstops and it was good to the second decimal place so for X and Y no big deal but for Z it mattered for me. One thing I do plan on changing sometime in the future is the leadscrew because 8pitch has errors for all of the layer heights I use and while most people it doesn't matter for my stuff, and considering a 2 pitch leadscrew is under 8 bucks, it does. I will do some printing with it, a lot of printing, to see how much error I will see in the real world on my parts I make.
In this class of printer there really is no such thing as Auto Leveling, the electronics don't have the connections to do it right. A mechanical switch trams the Z height accurately enough.
It looks better when it is covered with tech flex, this is the only photo I have of the arrangement. It is also lighter weight and probably doesn't make as much noise as a cable chain. I like keeping things simple and effective.