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Thread: Clogged nozzle

  1. #31
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schnupp View Post
    Yup and I did the PID autotune as stated in the build instructions. Would wrapping the resistor heater in too much kapton tape be a problem? Im pretty sure I used more than the build instructions stated.
    I haven't futzed with the PID, but I wouldn't think the tape would matter in the long run. More tape might add insulation, but the PID should be able to tune that out as just another variable in maintaining a setpoint.

  2. #32
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbuMaia View Post
    ... I should probably make something like that as well, using a short bit of teflon tubing as the "detector" part, attached to a switch. I already have a switch connected that pauses the print and moves the hotend if the filament runs out. I can just wire the bulge switch in series, which will pause the print so I can sand down the bulge.
    I've also thought about merging the no-filament and fat-filament functions. On the bulge detector, I'm waiting for some PTFE Bowden tube to play with. In the mean time, I've been thinking a simple plate with say #49 (1.854mm) and #48 (1.93mm) holes drilled in it to provide some flexibility. The bottom of the plate hinged and the top of the plate resting against a microswitch. If a bulge doesn't fit through the hole, it tips the plate forward just a bit to trigger the switch and an alarm goes off. Slide the detector mechanism toward the printer a bit, and clean away enough of the bulge to clear the hole and move the detector back towards the spool. All without stopping the print if I'm in the area.

    Where do you explain how you manage the print pause and hot end move? I haven't been thinking about that part yet.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by gmay3 View Post
    Have you tried enabling the skirt option in your slicing software to print a skirt around your print to purge the nozzle?
    Yes, I actually have it set to do 3 as everything typically starts to flow smoothly after the 1st go around or so.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    Where do you explain how you manage the print pause and hot end move? I haven't been thinking about that part yet.
    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post29673

    Read the reprap forum link all the way through. At the end I found a way to solve the problem I was having, and someone else posted a different method.

  5. #35
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danrodz View Post
    Yes, I actually have it set to do 3 as everything typically starts to flow smoothly after the 1st go around or so.
    Ah ok, just checking. I wasn't sure if this could maybe replace cleaning out the nozzle manually with the wire.

  6. #36
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    So I re leveled the bed last night with the hotend and bed heated up. I had to adjust the z end stop, so that was a pain. Once I did that I tried 3 prints. The first one was a replacement for the spool holder to be wider, it was sliced with slic3r .99 and seemed to be going ok. Painful because I have to make sure that there is enough loose filament. Well just over 65% done, and I went and checked, and noticed a lot of loose filament, that I don't remember being there before, and the hotend was printing air. My thought is that it ran out of filament and the roll sticks, yanked at the filament which pulled a bunch out, but also pulled it up out of the hotend. I hate waste, but oh well. The second I sliced in Cura, and printed out a thumb wheel. That went good, but I think it is actually printing too fast, (or I need a little more hairspray on the bed). It printed pretty well. I then went to print a second thumb wheel without reloading the gcode, and it seemed like it was going good, but then about half way to completion it went back to Home, and powered off the hotend and heatbed. Would it be better to reload the gcode after each print if you are printing multiples of one item. I suppose I could put 3 in Cura, and reslice and have it print 3 at the same time too. Getting better though!

  7. #37
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usarmyaircav View Post
    ...I then went to print a second thumb wheel without reloading the gcode, and it seemed like it was going good, but then about half way to completion it went back to Home, and powered off the hotend and heatbed. Would it be better to reload the gcode after each print if you are printing multiples of one item. I suppose I could put 3 in Cura, and reslice and have it print 3 at the same time too. Getting better though!
    I'm not sure what you mean by reload the gcode. How were you printing? From the SD card or from host software? I remember the time I messed up a long SD-based print when the attached laptop went to sleep and apparently reset the printer in the process.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean by reload the gcode. How were you printing? From the SD card or from host software? I remember the time I messed up a long SD-based print when the attached laptop went to sleep and apparently reset the printer in the process.
    I was printing from Pronterface, to be honest, I have yet to try printing from the SD card.

  9. #39
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usarmyaircav View Post
    I was printing from Pronterface, to be honest, I have yet to try printing from the SD card.
    Then I'm not sure why your print stopped on you. I haven't used Pronterface a lot, but you shouldn't have to reopen the gcode file each time you want to repeat a print.

  10. #40
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    I didn't really think so, but that is the only reason I could think of for why it started the print successfully but then said it was done, half way through.

    On another note, Kevin are you using Repetier Host on windows or Linux. I think I asked this but don't remember. Sorry if I am repeating myself.

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