Clogged nozzle

[usarmyaircav]

I probably didn't measure while hot. I will do that tonight, I hope that is the fix. I was getting so frustrated last night.

I think I ordered my kit in August or September so no I don't have the micro adjustable endstops. I will get re-read through your thread again and probably do the thumb wheels until I can get to the point I am more comfortable and look into the ABL.

[danrodz]

When my printer isn't extruding much or its thin and stringy, I have a stiff wire (i stripped the plastic off the tie wrap from a loaf of bread) that I bend in a loop. I heat up the nozzle and when it reaches my typical printing temp I slide the wire into the nozzle and wiggle it around and up and down and then I immediately turn the extruder gear. Usually it dribbles out and then a large blob will come out and everything will be good after that.

Also to echo other folks, the distance to the print bed is pretty critical. Too much and the filament won't adhere to the bed, it dribbles and balls up all over and then sticks to the nozzle and makes a big mess. Too close and nothing comes out or its just tiny stringy blobs. Ive noticed that if I don't push a bit thru the hot nozzle after that happens (nozzle too close to the bed) then I get the nothing extruded issue.

[gmay3]

When my printer isn't extruding much or its thin and stringy, I have a stiff wire (i stripped the plastic off the tie wrap from a loaf of bread) that I bend in a loop. I heat up the nozzle and when it reaches my typical printing temp I slide the wire into the nozzle and wiggle it around and up and down and then I immediately turn the extruder gear. Usually it dribbles out and then a large blob will come out and everything will be good after that..

Have you tried enabling the skirt option in your slicing software to print a skirt around your print to purge the nozzle?

[printbus]

... I will get re-read through your thread again and probably do the thumb wheels until I can get to the point I am more comfortable and look into the ABL.

To save you some time finding it, my thumbwheel info is in the BED LEVELING post of my build thread.

EDIT: There's an error in that post, and I no longer appear to be able to edit the post. It says I used M3x30 bolts on the corners. They're actually something like M3x25. The length needed depends on how thick the insulation is between the heat bed and the Y-bed,

[Schnupp]

It shouldn't take a lot. How are you attempting to manually feed it? By pushing on the filament or by turning the large gear? If pushing the filament, release the guidler block so the filament isn't held against the hobbed bolt. .

Im removing the guidler block like you said so that the hobbed bolt does not have any force on the filament.

[printbus]

Im removing the guidler block like you said so that the hobbed bolt does not have any force on the filament.

OK, good. I guess I'd say try increasing the nozzle temp in 10 degree increments, letting it soak a bit at each new temperature. See if it starts to flow easier at a higher temperature. I've got some PLA that I routinely run in the 215 degree range, and a spool of MakerBot PLA that actually works best as high as 230. It might take more pressure than I was eluding, but "a ton" of pressure should give you more than the "slightest bit" extrusion.

Are you using 3mm or 1.75mm filament? If 3mm, perhaps it takes more force than what I'm used to with 1.75mm.

[Schnupp]

Are you using 3mm or 1.75mm filament? If 3mm, perhaps it takes more force than what I'm used to with 1.75mm.

Im using 1.75 blue ABS from makerfarm. Ill give what you said a try for sure. All of this started when I switched to a different hot end so maybe that particular hot end needs to be run at higher temps. I switched to the prometheus hot end because its said to be less prone to clogs and leaks...

[printbus]

Im using 1.75 blue ABS from makerfarm. Ill give what you said a try for sure. All of this started when I switched to a different hot end so maybe that particular hot end needs to be run at higher temps. I switched to the prometheus hot end because its said to be less prone to clogs and leaks...

Ah. I also don't have much of a feel for how much pressure ABS takes to manually extrude. It looks like Prometheus comes with what would be a Type 5 thermistor. You changed your configuration.h file, right?

[Schnupp]

Ah. I also don't have much of a feel for how much pressure ABS takes to manually extrude. It looks like Prometheus comes with what would be a Type 5 thermistor. You changed your configuration.h file, right?

Yup and I did the PID autotune as stated in the build instructions. Would wrapping the resistor heater in too much kapton tape be a problem? Im pretty sure I used more than the build instructions stated.

[AbuMaia]

I envision feeding the filament through a tipping plate mechanism that trips an alarm if a bulge won't pass through it. I figure that may give me some time to remove some of the bulge with a dremel tool or something if I'm in the area, and somehow terminate the print if I'm not.

Great idea! I should probably make something like that as well, using a short bit of teflon tubing as the "detector" part, attached to a switch. I already have a switch connected that pauses the print and moves the hotend if the filament runs out. I can just wire the bulge switch in series, which will pause the print so I can sand down the bulge. Thanks!

I do pass the filament through a felt pad at the top of the extruder to wipe off the plethora of cat and dog fur in my work area. (see the white spot above the extruder in my avatar - that's the felt disk) That could be wiping off dust and who knows what else from the filament that could end up forming a clog.

I do this too, using one of the buffing pads for a Dremel. Quick and easy.